Tutorial on how to change brake pads on 2003 Honda Pilot

Tutorial on how to change brake pads on 2003 Honda Pilot

Like cars? Check out my new web site! http://nukem384.blogspot.com/ Tutorial on how to change brake pads and rotors on 2003-2008 Honda Pilot. For 2001-2007 A…

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derekinvt says:

Thanks for the video. I changed the rear brake pads and rotors for my 2005
Pilot in less than an hour and a half.

nukem384 says:

yes this will work on an 06 pilot. if you want to be thorough, you should
use a torque wrench on everything! so yes, use the torque wrench for the
wheel bolts

MexicanPride171 says:

Great video it looks really easy until u actually try it

juan0690ct says:

Thanks this is great got the job done can’t complain great video and great
mechanic I may say

nukem384 says:

$480 for a brake change is a hugeeeeee rip off. id never ever pay that
much. labor to change front brake pads should be more than 1 1/2 hours of
labor, so maybe $100-$150 in labor. rears are basically the same, just put
the ebrake down first.

omfgmerry says:

i cant get the bolts off ! what do i do? i sprayed it with wd40 but it
doesnt seem to be doing anything

Gary S. says:

great video; we have a 2006 Element, which i trust will be the same
procedure. For $29, we are installing new rotors, but may resurface the old
ones for the next time. NAPA has more expensive rotors, as well as various
prices for pads. Anyone had any experience with bad calipers of their
honda? Thanks, gary

Bouboune says:

Does this also apply for Honda Pilot 2005

001chatlos001 says:

When its time to change the oil could you do a tutorial.

Derek B says:

Easiest video I’ve found so far for changing brake pads, thanks for posting!

Jack Bauer says:

@nukem384 my experience is that the Honda brake pads last longer than after
market pads BUT after market pads are easier on the rotors.

espmktg1 says:

Is this the same way to replace brake pads on a 2007 Honda Accord (front
and back disc). And on a 2000 Honda S2000 (front and back disc ?) thank you
!

freakyfarooq says:

Hey guys…I have an 06 Honda Accord EX 2.4…its been 3.5 years since I
bought the car and haven’t changed my brake pads since! Now…I HAVE to coz
they are squeaking…now to change the brake pads they are charging me
about $480 parts AND labor! But if I buy the ceramic break pads online I’m
getting all four for under $80! so…is the cost of labor worth it? Any
response appreciated!

d kash says:

@nukem384 nice i like your video bro…ill buy one tomorrow at autozone..

patrick A says:

Great video. I wish I knew about the C clamp before I bled the brakes and
had to manually compress them.

nukem384 says:

@bwasher4 i would just look at one of the old pads you took out and copy
the placement of the shims onto the new pad. they just pop on and off the
pad, so its not very hard to install

nukem384 says:

@ccsmith51 yep exact same thing for the back, just make sure your parking
brake is off.

Jim Knox says:

Thanks Nukem, this helped me a bunch and saved me a bundle! 🙂

Dave Jacobs says:

Thx man, this saved me a load of work!

Franco Anne says:

actually this was nice educational video, after watching all those video
about changing brake pads and rotors, I must say this is really nice, nice
view but only the video needs to be more clear, but I like it, now I can
sure change my HONDA CRV 06 Brake pads and rotors too. thanks for the video.

Stegmutt says:

Thanks for the vid- very helpful. Only way it could get better is better
lighting.

bwasher4 says:

Thanks, Nukem! You’re giving me confidence to try this myself. I’m a
rookie, so forgive me for the stupid question. When installing the pads,
how/where do the shims and clips fit? Will I know this once I remove the
old pads/clips/shims abd see the old placement? Any step-by-step placement
(which sides the shims go on, where the clips go on, etc.) would be great!
Thanks again!

29KayKay says:

Very clear instructions. I changed the brakes on my 2003 Acura MDX and this
video was most helpful. Thank you!

justinsvidz says:

Good Job on this video, but I see 2 problems that should be noted. First is
that you didn’t service the caliper bracket. This is critical to new pad
life. You need to remove the pad clips and clean under them with a file or
wire brush to remove all the rust that will hold the pads from sliding
freely and you need to remove and relube the slide pins from the mount. 2nd
you forgot to mention that you need to pump the pedal before you try to
move the car so that you won’t hit anything.

sunriver100 says:

With ABS do you not need to crack the line so the back pressure from
compressing the caliper does not push old fliud back into the ABS

DiozKhan says:

yea issue is most shops wont do it unless they do the brake job so ask
around autopart stores where the closest machineshop is at sometimes it
works better then searching for one online

brightonideas says:

how difficult is it to remove the 2 alignment screws in the rotors? and do
you know what size screws are needed to back the rotor off of the hub?

Todd Leavitt says:

I did the fronts with now problem. The rears are a problem. The 2 bolts
refuse to loosen. Somehow on one side it finally loosened but I cant get it
lose on the second side and the bolt is just about stripped. From what I
see, theres a thing on the other side that just spins with it. Ive tried
pliers on it those with no luck. This really sucks. Cars stuck on a jack
right now while it rains.

deanotune says:

You should always skim / machine the disc surface so you give the new pads
something to bed into (More to it than that – cross sectional areas etc nut
will keep it simple) . Also maybe mention that you ALWAYS replace BOTH
sides at the same time. NEVER just one side. I worked on brakes and
suspension for 10+ years and I have seen… many times …people just
replace one side . Scary! Also for those screws …and ‘Impact screwdriver
‘ is a must.

Robert Dobbs says:

Hey nukem384: Thank you for showing me the easy way for changing pads on my
2005 Honda Accord. I would add though that when you compress the brake
fluid cylinder with a C-clamp, make sure your brake fluid reservoir in the
engine bay is open with the cap removed. When the brake job is done, make
sure to replace the cap. Reason: It may be very difficult to compress the
cylinder if the reservoir is already full of liquid…trust me on that
one:) Nice job and keep up the good work!

nukem384 says:

c clamp, you can find it at any auto parts store. they have different size
ones too.

nukem384 says:

thanks. yep, it’s exactly the same on the rsx-s

Jose Molina says:

Thanks, very useful, I have a 2008 Odyssey, same procedure, ye really made
the difference on my day, it was nice and easy with your guidance.

nukem384 says:

glad i could help!

nukem384 says:

@psychospice8 basically you use the c clamp to compress the piston back
into the caliper. if you dont do that, the caliper will not fit over the
new brake pads that actually have pad compared to the old brake pads with
nothing left. let me know if youre still confused.

s14realm3 says:

nice video, but one suggestion, you mentioned brake quiet spray/paste and
“spread it on the brake pad” should have mentioned NOT to spread it on the
FACE of the pad to the rotor. Someone who have never done brake pads may
spread the stuff on the face of the pad and ruin the pad.

fernandocevallos says:

Thanks, you just saved me $400 from the dealer

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