This install is on a 2002 Honda Civic Si-R (Canada) Hatchback but will apply to most models. Sometimes when a c-clamp is used to compress the piston, the pis…
This install is on a 2002 Honda Civic Si-R (Canada) Hatchback but will apply to most models. Sometimes when a c-clamp is used to compress the piston, the pis…
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DO NOT USE THIS TUTORIAL!
you will get killed by this. all you need is:
1. open the main cilinder
2. unscrew one screw to caliper and open it up
3. remove the pads, remove the slides
4. clean slides nad place where slides are going
5. place the slides in place, add some copper grease (high temperature one)
6. tup new brake pads in place
7. push the piston in (as main cilinder is opened, there is no presure)
8. close the caliper and screw it down.
9. close the main cilinder
10. kick brake couple of times to see if hub is turning after installation
and let the new pads find its place.
done. you’re welcome.
And yeah, gotta agree with most of the other guys commenting, no need
whatsoever to open the bleed valve if just doing the pads and/or discs. If
necessary, just open the master cylinder reservoir in the engine bay and
cover it with an old rag to absorb any spillage. If replacing the caliper
itself then you would be pinching the flexi hose with mole grips, swapping
the caliper and then having to bleed the excess air out. But the guys in
the video admitted they were not trained pros so good on em!
thanx guys
@Daxbash5000 my friend…i got so mad i tried to body slam my car. i did
the same thing..i’m doing my brakes now. funny thing is…it turns but its
stopped turning now. i won’t go as far down as this guys. still pissed >.<
this is so wrong people dont do this its all been done the wrong way if you
change your pads you have to change the rotor
Glad this isn’t my car too many things gone wrong
this should be titled “how not to change pads!!” gash B&%TARDS!!!
Another thing to watch is that when rewinding the piston is that when you
have it pushed back that the little cross is pointing exactly 12 ‘o’ clock
to the caliper housing (see 2:53 for an idea of the proper position).If you
don’t then chances are you will not get the caliper to slide over the new
brake pads if they have the little “ball” point that is supposed to fit
neatly into the groove of the piston.This is true for nearly all newer
hondas and can burn out your pads very quickly if you dont
Thanks a lot finely got done at 4:30
tank you you save my ass. it was very helpfull. the turning and pushing
never hear about. again tank you
@jackson251981 On cars with ABS such as this, it’s a good idea to let the
fluid bleed through the valve rather than pushing back and possibly
damaging the ABS sensor.
i was thinking it was a good idea i do it myself, but after reading the
comments, best i leave it to the pros lol
Always remember to clean the slides for pads after removal and lube them
before installing the new pads. And the ABS sensor won’t be damaged it is
an electrical part not hydraulic. Been doing it for 16 years I know
ah so its a twisting motion… I knew I was doing something wrong… THANKS
video uploader :)…. Now I know how to properly push that dang caterpillar.
Never take out bleeder valve, I don’t know why all these DIY tell you to do
so, it makes completely no sense!
There are two parts that he left on. The brake pad loader, and the rotor.
The rotor is the shiny metal disk that has the four screws threads coming
out of it. in the movie the loader was left on. YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHECK
YOUR BRAKE LOADERS FOR DEFECTS. There are two aluminum looking brackets
that are held onto the brake loader, these should be looked over to make
sure they are still in working order. make sure you put a little grease on
your pads touching the caliper for minimize noise.
Can not thank you guys enough! Thought i was going to abandon hope and go
down to halfords and spend £30 on a caliper rewind tool but you just turn
it, who’d have thought hey! Nice one gents much appreciated!
I have always done it like that and I have been doing breaks for 18 years
and I have never damaged an ABS Sensor. Also the fluid goes from the res,
into the brake line, and into the piston cylinder, trust me you won’t
damage the sensor. 99.9% of the time an ABS Sensor goes bad is because
there is break dust and road debri caked between the sensor. Just get brake
cleaner and spray the hell out of it and your good to go.
god thank you I tried so long to press this damned thing just to find out
you twist it >.<
@thepoutinedotcom jackson is right, never loosen the bleeder valve unless
bleeding the system. If doing brakes only, leave the bleeder alone. it will
not damage the ABS. All you are doing is pushing fluid back into the master
cylinder. Also as a tip, it is good to invest in silicone lubricant to lube
your slider pins before re assembly, otherwise it might seize and have
uneven brake wear. If changing the Rotor, use lots of antiseize on the hub.
how can you use hammer and chisel on the piston, you are spoiling it man !
Instead of loosening the bleeder valve, take the top of the master cylinder
off. That way you dont have to bleed the brakes when you’re done.
been a tech for Volkswagen for 7 years and i never EVER heard a pathetic
excuse to bleed the system such as this.
got mine done. this helped out a ton u hear me! these freakin’ brakes had
me actin’ all out of character. I am glad thats over. I learned alot though
I agree, you don’t have to loosen the bleed nipple to turn the piston back,
I just took the brake fluid cap off just in case there was any push back
Never loosen the bleeder valve or you have to bleed the breaks you can
screw in the pistons with out doing so. It will be a little harder but you
will not have to bleed the system after your done.
That’s how you bleed the brakes dumb fuck!!!! How you bleed Volkswagens?
With the fuckin blinker fluid resorvoir!!! Go back to your fuckin VW
Golfbag fuckin faggot!!!!