How to replace front wheel bearing hub on a Honda Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline, Acura MDX step by step.

How to replace front wheel bearing hub on a Honda Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline, Acura MDX step by step.

How to replace front wheel bearing hub on a 2011-2017 Honda Odyssey, Pilot, Ridgeline, Acura MDX step by step. Amazon link below for OEM HONDA WHEEL BEARING.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-44300-TK8-A01-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B00BFDGZCS/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=melniksmotors-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=fe1a963801f18a97afb1af19d19c0b88&creativeASIN=B00BFDGZCS

Disclaimer:
Warnings And Caution!!!!

If you follow the procedures, techniques and methods shown in this video, be aware that you follow them at your own risk.

Under no circumstances will the author(s) and/or publisher(s) of www.youtube.com/user/melniksmotors (melniks automotive) be held liable for any injuries or damages, direct or consequential, incurred by any person who attempts to follow the examples shown herein.

Disclaimer:
Warnings And Caution!!!!

If you follow the procedures, techniques and methods shown in this video, be aware that you follow them at your own risk.

Under no circumstances will the author(s) and/or publisher(s) of www.youtube.com/user/melniksmotors (melniks automotive) be held liable for any injuries or damages, direct or consequential, incurred by any person who attempts to follow the examples shown herein.

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Comments

R S says:

Do we have ABS sensor on this?

Bill C says:

Those screws that hold the rotors on are actually JIS screws. You can get screwdrivers for JIS, including the impact driver kind that you hit with a hammer. The Phillips head and driver bit look similar, but are not designed to handle high torque. I found the JIS impact driver on eBay and it does help a lot.

Rich Napier says:

You gave me 95% of the info i was looking for. But, do you not have to grease the bearings before installing them?

James B says:

torque specs not mentioned

Scott Allie says:

This was a helpful video. I needed an air chisel to remove the hub assembly, and given that I wish that I had purchased a replacement dust shield as well.

Mahboob Khan says:

Awsome video, thanks!

Chris Goshorn says:

Nice job. Good mechanic.

Abraham Ovie says:

Very helpful and great presentation. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

lindseyhunt1090-GarageB says:

Yea Ridgelines don't have bolt on wheel bearings

Valeiru Rusu says:

Bravo frate! Foarte scurt, clar si cuprinzator. Succese in continuare!

Brian Carpenter says:

The only issue with this video is its not entirely accurate for the 2013 Honda Pilot. I just did both fronts and you absolutely need a hub/bearing puller to get the bearing assembly off. Its pressed in. At least our factory bearings were. I tried using a chisel, pry, etc and 4 trips to the store later figured out you actually need this tool. Its a free rental from Autozone. Took about 4 to 5 pulls with a 5lb weighted puller and out they came. I wouldn't waste time doing this yourself on the 2013 Pilot without this tool, you'll get stuck otherwise.

CHiViRiCo chivi says:

Wow Best explained video on YouTube thanks

Kally954569 says:

Good clear vid. Thx

Michael Mager says:

Don't want to be a troll… but won't to much torque (or not enough) cause a wheel bearing to fail prematurely?

John Kopp says:

Helpful video. Thanks for making it. Highly recommend you mention torque specification for all fasteners and part numbers for the make and model you are working on. It will save your viewers like me time in having to look it up. Anyways, great job.

timber383 says:

Great video! Trying to replace front wheel bearings on my 2013 MDX & cannot get the old ones off. Would it help to hit the axel spline to break it lose? That’s the only thing I haven’t tried yet.

DirtySanchez84 says:

Does the wheel bearing make a squeaking noise too at certain speeds? If so then i think you just diagnosed my 2011 Odyssey.

David B says:

Very thorough video! You did a great job, and thank you very much for taking the time to show all of the steps. It really helps a lot.

lanzo says:

where you buy the axle nut?

Mr The Katt says:

To take off the Phillips screw on the rotor,,, use an impact screwdriver that you hit from the rear that causes it to turn, it will save a headache! On rusty rotors

Fardeen Sadaat says:

What a helpful video
God blessed you

DMNT-Atlacatl says:

Wow so much patience to teach the curious. Thank you for your help. I am working on a 2002 Odyssey and your video helped a lot because it's very detailed. Thank you!

Robert l Scales says:

Very well done video. What kind of lift system are you using to support the vehicle?

ali roku says:

you are amazing …i have 2002 Acura mdx and i am thinking of changing
the whole rear wheel hub assemble as my bearing is bad .please iam
asking for a video or recommendation about how to do it .and is there
is a way to do it without pressing as i can go to the junk yeard and
any part for a cheap price.thank you

armo byzantine says:

Are all Hondas front wheels have the bearing and the hub assembled together?

Martin Ryan says:

Great video

Andy says:

Super video

Fu man Chu says:

Is it same thing for 04 Acura MDX?

Michael E. Cummings says:

First of all, great video… good lighting was really helpful. I have a 2011 Acura MDX and just ordered a MOOG replacement wheel bearing from Amazon. I'm a little concerned about the magnetic band on the wheel bearing causing issues with the ABS and/or traction control but will give it a try as Acura wants another $130 for the Acura part. I also just purchased a cordless Ryobi One impact tool (1/2" with 4AH Batt) and have been wanting to give it a try on this project. Does anybody have the torque specifications for the MDX or is it the same as posted already: Axle Nut=134 ft-lbs and Wheel Bearing Flange Bolts=72 ft-lb Thanks again for the great video!

Lu Pham says:

Caliper bracket mount bolts: 101 ft. lb.
Caliper pin bolt: 37 ft. lb.

A tip for unlucky folks like me who don't have a wide variety of tools. I had it mounted on one side on the jack, and one of the flange bolt was blocked by the CV boot clamp (the part that gets squeezed to tighten the clamp). Okay so just put the car in neutral and you can easily turn the rotor and that clamp moves away. BUT in order to put the car into neutral you need to press the brake pedal. Oops I had already removed the brake caliper and now the pistons are completely squeezed all the way in and you can't reinstall unless you compress the pistons back with a clamp or a caliper tool set. Autozone let's you check the kit out for free BTW!

Anyways tip is to just put the car in neutral after you've jacked up the car and have parking brake engaged and wheels blocked but before you remove the brake calipers.

Oh another tip after I completely stripped that stupid philips bolt that holds the rotor in place (had to drill it out). Get a hand impact tool set for $15 from Lowes. As you pound the tool with a hammer it rotates and unscrews the bolt very easily.

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