Continuation of the replacement of timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, idler pully, and water pump on my 2007 Honda Ridgeline 3.5L V6 J35 series engine. This v…
Honda J Series V6 Timing Belt Replacement PART 2
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wasn’t there a special tool involved in the removal of the harmonic
balancer? or did you just show us a bypass method? thanks..
Thanks very much for posting this very thorough video, cuptain85. For me,
personally, it just sort of reaffirms my commitment NOT to do this job
myself. My ’08 Ridgeline now has 230,000 miles – the first timing belt,
serpentine belt, water pump, tensioner was done by my Honda dealership at
115,000 – and it is definitely due again, but I’m struggling with the $$
issue. This is an expensive job! Wish Honda would go to timing chains like
most others have and dump the belt.
Excellent video. This was very helpful. Two thoughts for others that may
be trying this. I have a Saturn Vue 2007 3.5L, which is this same Honda
engine.
1) The crankshaft bolt (harmonic balancer) was a nightmare to get off. I
used the special Honda tool, but it still took a breaker bar with a 20″
extension balanced on a jack-stand + literally jumping down on it with full
weight to get it loose. My 500lb impact wrench was useless.
2) I recommend getting everything to top-dead-center and marking the belt
and cams at TDC (mark the crankshaft at 6 o’clock). Use white-out or a
good white sharpie. My rear cam slipped on me when putting on the new belt
(sprung forward about 8 teeth). This scared me, but I realized that when
at TDC the rear cam is balanced between the springs, so it’s prone to do
that. Don’t panic – just use a wrench to rotate it slowly back to TDC
where it should balance. Going counter-clockwise a short distance seems
ok. Once the belt is on, rotate the crankshaft 720 degrees and if
everything lines up at TDC, then you should be good.
I also have a small leak in the oil pump. I would like to change during the
belt change. Do you have any bits of advice for this? Thanks for the video
by the way.
After marking the new belt, installing the tensioner and idler pulley, the
belt went on with all marks lined up. I released the tensioner pin, then
proceeded to turn the crank by hand. The marks on the cam and belt keep
moving in relation to each other. Is there a max number of revolutions I
need to go thru before they line up again? I want a good level of
confidence before i start the engine…. thanx
Thanks for the video. How did you hold your camera so steady and was it a
cell phone camera? Great presentation!
Also in the shop manual it says to NOT use an impact wrench to install
crankshaft pulley with an impact wrench. FYI for all the DIYers out there..
I was wondering why you would mark the belt as over time the have the
tendency to stretch and warp. It would make more sense to find TDC and not
have to mark anything, am I right? This video is enough for me to throw
money at the dealership as there is no way I’d have the patience for this.
I’d be cussing throughout the entire video….
What was the total time involved?
Marking the belt and pullies takes ALL the risk out of it, as I see it.
This is why I chose to present it this way. As long as it’s the right belt,
and the ribs on the belt are replaced exactly where they were, there is
practically no way it could be out of time. If you just remove the belt and
replace it where “I guess it must go there”, that is a bit more risky. For
a first timer, I would suggest aligning timing marks and marking
belt/pullies. Either way, check, double check and re-check!!!
i did this in about two and a half hours of leisurely working, including
the time the video process slowed me down. For a first-timer I might
suggest allocating up to four hours, as this isn’t a process you want to
rush through the first few times.
a short matter of time before a leak will probably occur. This is my
vehicle, I bought new, personally maintained. The oil seals are not too
major of a job. Just follow the video, adding in removing the cam gears and
changing seals. It is just my preference to keep the oem seals in as long
as they don’t leak. Then it’s not too big of a deal to fix when one does.
Just a matter of fixing it before it causes more problems. Thanks for
watching! If I can be of any help, you can find me here!
A must!
Thank you for this video, very complete step by step video
i say if it makes you feel better, go for it! Won’t hurt a thing, but
really isn’t necessary. Just remember to ALWAYS double check the timing
after you install the belt!
It’s great that you showed draining the antifreeze and jacking up the
engine. Many other videos didn’t. I didn’t see you use the torque wrench
though.
thank’s very useful information Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Never seen a timing belt stretch, but nonetheless it surely wouldn’t grow
any more ribs (what you are counting/referencing when you mark it). Thanks
for watching!
For me, personally, there are a few circumstances that determine if I would
change the cam and crank seals during a timing belt change, especailly the
first due change. Generally, I would just wait for a leak to occur on one
and then change all of them. If I were changing the belt on a vehicle that
showed evidence of severe maintenance neglegence, I may consider replacing
them. If it’s the third belt change, meaning 300,000+ miles, I would
replace them due to the fact it is just (continued)
Thanks for the DIY Is there some reason you didn’t change the camshaft
seals or crankshaft seal? Is it because its too difficult for a novice or
is it that they rarely leak? What’s your take on changing those seals?
Thank you and good info, rockybbb! I wouldn’t advise a DIYer to do anything
more than they are comfortable doing. That being said, I have literally
installed many many dozen Honda crank pully bolts with an impact wrench. Do
I, personally, feel comfortable using the impact on the crank pully bolt?
You bet. It’s all in the degree of comfort and confidence the individual
has in his skills, experience, and knowledge. I.e., manufacturers advising
not to use an impact on lug nuts.
I like the quality of the video. Kinda risky not lining up TDC before belt
removal. For novices like me, it’s
what do you think about using a camshaft locking tool to ensure cam shafts
dont move during installation of new belt?