A fastener by fastener tutorial for replacing the sway bar end bushings and frame bushings on 94-97 Accords. The common symptom of a failed sway bar bushing …
Honda Accord Sway Bar Bushings Replacement
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What about the rear bushings?
The lock nut part number on the package you have is 90362-SF1-003. Isn’t
that a 8mm nut? In the video you use 12mm wrench. I have a 94 accord. Will
it be different for a 94. Majestic Honda says it’s 8mm…
Hey man to your left at 5:00 what is that piece called, looks like a ball
and socket joint.. what’s the name of those?
Excellent DIY video!
I’d recommend anti-seize on the frame bushing bracket bolts. On my 2000
Northeast-driven CR-V, *both* passenger-side bolts sheared off the last
time I replaced the front frame bushings. It turned what should have been
an easy job into a nightmare.
Do you need to lube the new ones before you put them in? and if so what
lube would you use on the new OEM Honda bushings? Thanks
Make sure you have good jack stands and all is good. You DON’T want to be
under that car getting squished.
Buen Video. Yo quiero cambiarle los bushing a mi auto Jetta. xD este video
me dio animos para hacerlo, Gracias por el video!
Great, detailed video. It was shot well and explained nicely. Thank you
very much!
Thanks much, I just decided to get the moog set, they are cheaper and Moog
makes good stuff.
After doing an entire timing belt kit replacement on a 94 Honda Accord LX.
My buddy and I also noticed the sway bar end link bushing on the driver
side were damaged. So we replaced that also. We then got the tire on and
sat the car down. Started the car up. Then the squealing began. I think the
bushings were not put on correctly. What are you thoughts?
Thank you so much for posting this video. I’m going to be replacing the
sway bar link and bushings on my boyfriend’s 03 Accord. This will help me
show him what’s wrong with his car and why these are the parts that need
replaced. He’s a sweetheart but it’s a little odd to him that his little
petite girlfriend works on cars lol
You can also make it easier by taking off the frame bushings and letting
the bar rest on the exhaust. You should be changing the frame bushings
anyway. I loosened the ends, then pulled the frame bushings then put the
end bushings on with the bar loose on the exhaust. Then the frame
bushings.
+Bushougoma thanks for taking the time to reply :)
Quick question. Does the same clunking sound hold true for the rear sway
bar if the bushings are bad. Did you happen to make a video for the rear?
Thx, nice video!
I know its old, but awesome vid man thanks a lot for posting.
BTW, if you have a 94-97 accord LX or DX, there is no rear sway bar! I
went to check and see if the bushings were OK or worn out like the front
and found there is none! Car handles very well for not having one at all.
Thank you so much for being so thorough and instructive
You’re very direct and helpful. Please, make more if you have time. You
make me want to keep my Honda Accord 1997 even longer now.
I’m learning from you man! Thanks again! :)
Most of them are for work. I’m not a key hoarder promise :-).
l hate buying OEM parts, but what parts do you have to buy OEM and what
don’t need to be OEM?
The part number is 51314-SM4-020. They’re sold separately and you’ll need 8
(4 per side). Added the part number to the description for future reference.
Nice ima do this very awsome video
Differing bar diameters aside, how accurate is this for a ’98 as far as
process goes?
That mostly comes from experience working with a specific vehicle when you
know a certain model inside and out you notice subtle changes. The best
place to learn about your vehicle is by browsing the factory service
manual. Nobody knows your vehicle better than the engineers who designed
it. Aside from that parts breakdowns at online dealer websites are a great
free away to see design changes on parts of a vehicle from year to year.
THANK YOU SO DAMN MUCH!! HONDAS ARE GOOD CAR, I’VE BEEN DRIVING HONDA CARS
ALL MY LIFE AND I’VE BEEN LOOKING ALL OVER YOUTUBE FOR A HONDA SPECIALIST,
YOU ARE A LIFE AND MONEY SAVIOR!!
You shouldn’t have to push down. The sway bar is a giant torsion spring and
should naturally be resting downward on the bushings with both front wheels
in the air. Jack up both sides of the vehicle and not just one. If you need
a bit of extra play put the nut on the finished bushing side loosely by a
few threads.
thank you for this video u did a great demonstration
These vehicles are very low to the ground so having the vehicle in the air
is pretty much a must. Thanks For Watching.
OEM stands for original equipment manufacturer and refers to factory parts
obtained from the dealer. Those aftermarket Moog bushings won’t have the
spacers the factory bushings had to let you know when they’ve been
tightened enough. Just tighten the nut until the bushings are slightly
compressed the ridged sides of the bushings should be properly seated in
the sway bar and lower control arm as well.
Is there a certain Size bushing used for certain Vehicles?
why would you not start the engine , work smarter not harder , you are a
donkey for leaving this comment , maybe saying , how about an air gun , or
power tools , but any idiot with a car knows turning the key would unlock
the steering
While you can drive without them they’re not useless. Driving without a
sway bar will reduce traction and affect steering when cornering. The body
will also tend to roll more on sharp turns. In addition to that this
vehicle doesn’t use links and when the bushings crack and fall off you get
an annoying metallic knock over bumps as the sway bar hits the lower
control arm. Not good for the bar or the control arm.
Car squeaks as I enter, Exit, or turn the wheel or hit even slight smooth
bumps. I lifted the car and set it back down and the squeaky noise
stopped– BUT–I noticed the “Outter Tie Rod ball joints castle nuts were
facing upward instead of facing the ground and the rubber boot covers were
torn on both sides. This means the Outter Tierods were placed up-side down
/ (WRONG!) these Outter Tierod ball joint thread bolts should be facing the
ground when they are installed correctly.
Thnx this really helped me
Thanks for the video.
Great instructional video. Very clear and concise. BTW what camera did you
use for this? Seems to pick up all the sounds really well and the clarity
is great too.
When you do this on a regular basis the constant use of pumice soap really
does a number on your hands. The more dirt you keep off the less you have
to scrub off later. The gloves also protect your hands from oils, greases,
and fluids you don’t want on your skin if you can avoid it. They also can
prevent minor scrapes and scratches as well.
Awesome video, nice quality and easy to follow. I didn’t know that the OEM
kit had the internal spacers? Now i understand why the aftermarket ones
bottom out. I have a bad creaking sound coming from the suspension. I don’t
know if it’s from the end links or from some polyurethane upper control arm
bushings i installed recently? I’m going to order the end link parts from
the dealer and see if this solves it.
You can get them from the dealer or from an aftermarket supplier. For
example the Beck / Arnley part number is 1016285 Rockauto has them.
Thank you, brother!! Now to figure out how to install this ST Suspensions
rear sway bar on the rear of my LX
Sorry for asking stupid question, but why cannot put oil on rubber?
I admire the knowledge base to understand when design changes have a
meaningful impact on replacement procedures. Is there an easy reference you
can look up to know when the changes are made for any particular
part/model/make of vehicle? These kind of step by step instructional videos
are gold for those with the same vehicle.
Yeah but good luck doing it one handed while holding a camera :-).
Thanks for watching.