2006 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder front brakes and rotors replace. Tools you’ll need: 12mm socket for the caliper bolts (torque 26ft. lbs). breaker bar with 17…
2006 Honda Accord LX 4 cylinder front brakes and rotors replace. Tools you’ll need: 12mm socket for the caliper bolts (torque 26ft. lbs). breaker bar with 17…
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Yes, you need to find out if your vehicle has disc brakes or drum brakes, they’re both different parts. Disc brakes uses pads and drum brakes uses shoes. I hope that answered your question.
I need to replace my front pads and rotors Honda will charge me parts and labor $480 + tax…and this local auto parts shop wants to know if the back are disc or drum? to give me the correct parts..does it make a difference which one I go with or a specific set?..Great video by the way!
ah, okay I see it. The brake job replacement is the same procedure except there’s just 2 spring clips in the way. Nothing different, I don’t know if this design improve on anything or not. Just watch the brake replacement on our video and just adjust accordingly to the spring’s on the brakes, that’s it. I hope that clarify things up, also thanks for the info.
Google: elementownersclub Brake pad replacement (fronts)
First picture of the second post, you can see the 2 wire springs.
can you post a video so that I may take a look at it? thanks!
Oops… Should have read description 8-)
I bought some fine of synthetic grease from harbor freight … Is that okay? What cleaner spray did you use with cloth for rotor ?
My 2012 Accord has 2 springs for each wheel (front included) that hold the pads off the rotor when not using the brakes. Apparently SUV-Hondas got these springs years before the Accord did.
And FYI, the 2008+ Accords have rear disc brakes.
Great video on Honda Brake replacement! Had the job done in 45 minutes due to your very helpful instruction! Thanks !
you can try to drill the bolt out, I’ve never tried the torch before. As for the bolt, you can use 2 wrench to break off the bolt. 1 wrench to hold the bolt with the closed end, and the open end, use the other wrench with the close end on the open end to have leverage on it. I hope that make sense haha
I failed 🙁 My rotor screws are so rusted and corroded I could not get them off. I’ve read that I need a blow torch or I have to just drill them out. Also, I couldn’t get the bottom bold off to check the pads because my breaker bar wouldn’t fit and no socket would fit there either (rears). Looks like I’ll have to take it to my mechanic
you don’t need to clamp down the brake lines because if you do, you can’t push the caliper piston back. We bled the brake system after the brake job, its in our other video haha. The Honda Accord caliper piston isn’t a twisted type anymore, I believe Honda changed the caliper piston style? I’m not too sure, but its easier than before that’s for sure. good luck with your brake job!
great, thanks! I need to do this job myself for the first time. Why didn’t you clamp down the brake line or bleed the brakes after you push the piston back? Also, why does the piston not need to be twisted on the accord?
Thanks!
yup, those are the one’s we used in this video.
can you use this for the bolts: 3M 08946 Clear Silicone Paste – 8 oz.
and this for the pads and contact surface? Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8 oz.
what spring is he talking about? the only spring on the brakes are on the rear drums. The front brakes are hold on my 2 pins and 2 bolts for the caliper and 2 bolts for the caliper brackets.
got a honda crv 2006, the front passenger wheel has started squeaking recently. Recenlt have changed the rotar and break pads, so I’m sure it’s not the problem. but the metal touching metal sound … . went to an auto repair, and turned out there was a loose spring holding the pads on the rotar and it let go. he put it back in place, but after 5 min driving it, the sound came back and I’m assuming same for the spring/caliper. how can I fix this?
brake clean.
the 2006 Honda Accord does have ABS, and I bleed the brakes after changing the rotors and pads. Good tip though. I’ve never had any problems with the ABS system doing this method though.
If the vehicle you are working on has ABS, you should make to not push the caliper piston back without first cracking open the bleeder screw. You want to let the brake fluid out of the bleeder so you don’t push any contaminants up to the ABS system. Remember that the calipers are the lowest point in your brake system and there could be trash in it. A new ABS system could cost you thousands!
we used an impact drive, you can get it at any auto stores. It uses the Philip screw head and a hammer to hit the rod so that it can unscrew the bolt from the rotor.
Thanks for the useful video! What size are the pusher bolts to get the rotor off? Are they the same 6X14?
Before pressing the caliper piston back in, make sure the reservoir brake fluid isn’t too full because the fluid will over flow. We usually suction the fluids to about half before we push the piston back in, the cap could be on or off, but just make sure the fluid is half full as the piston will cause the fluid the rise above the reservoir and can cause over flow. I hope this helps.
nutz – before pressing the piston back in for the reinstall, did you take your resevoir cap off or did you leave it sealed and just monitor it? thanks
As long as you have 1 screw, it should be fine. I don’t think its that important for the screws to be on there honestly. I had a honda civic 2002 and the 2 screws were missing on the rotors and it hold up fine and the braking wasn’t compromise. Its just personal preference if you want it to look a certain way, but it should be fine without the screws.
hey i was trying to take out the screw holding the rotor and i stripped it, I had to drill the head to remove the rotor…is there anyways to remove the rest of the screw that is in there? one of my friends was saying those 2 screws are not really that important in holding the rotor….
it is… but ultimately, it is up to you on how you want to spend your money.