Shows how a trapped rotor fits together on a 1995 Honda Accord. You’ll need a press to replace the brake rotor and wheel bearing on your 5th Generation 1994-…
Shows how a trapped rotor fits together on a 1995 Honda Accord. You’ll need a press to replace the brake rotor and wheel bearing on your 5th Generation 1994-…
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Can you give us a link on where to find this conversion kit? It does sound
like a good idea!
For a DIYer you made an awesome video. You did not finish about the broken
stud story but here is what I do every time. Due to the inner bearing race
sticking to the hub, I simply buy a new hub/studs assy so no cracked,
stripped or broken stud issue. Press the new bearing on new hub & dont
waste time cutting. The hub/studs assy is not expensive, no worries about
safety of family in vehicle, no worries of full disassembly or wasted time.
In my experience. Nice safety briefing & Eric referral.
If you jack up your car to get that tire off of the ground, grab the tire
with one hand at 12:00 position, grab tire with other hand at 6:00
position. Push in at 12 & pull out at 6, then reverse push pull action
every second. Rock the tire with some real force. If the tire seems to feel
loose, then the bearing is bad. If you are not sure, try the other tire
that you think is in good condition. A bad bearing will allow more tire
wear on both the inner & outer tread pattern like low tire pressure.
Awesome video.
Good job man.
You are a genuies.
what would be cool is that someone would just sell the wheel hub and
bearing as one set. when you pop off the rotor you just replace. No need to
further break down needed.
good idea to press with the old rotor.
Thanks for this bit of knowledge !! Just wish I had searched 1hr of @#%&
earlier thanks again
there should be no in and out play in a bearing if so your bearing is bad
Its been a while since I removed mine, but I don’t remember any play in
that bearing. Usually when you have play in a bearing like that, its a sign
that it is wearing and may eventually fail or seize. I am always paranoid
with critical parts like wheel bearing, so I stay on the safe side and
replace them with new ones. My justification is that the money I’m saving
by doing it myself offsets the cost of the parts. Good luck!
with this and erics version i have a better idea . nice video!
horrible design Honda ****head shake**
Great job on this video. you were nothing if not thorough. Like you said at
the end of the video, you’re not a professional mechanic… But the problem
with most of these videos is that the person who made it assumes it’s being
watched by professional mechanics, so they skip over a lot of details which
usually turn out to make or break the project. Thanks a bunch.
The method that I explained in the video involves putting the whole knuckle
on a press. So obviously to do that, you’ll need to remove it from the
vehicle. I’ve heard of these slide hammers that people use to hammer and
pop it out while it is still mounted to the vehicle (although I’ve had no
experience with that method). I recommend this method because you can
replace the wheel bearings while you are taking it all apart.
Why does he call the brake disk a brake rotor?
They do have them as one assembly but, of course, they cost more than just
a bearing. Not every outlet carries them, however, but if you search, you
can find one. You can also buy a separate new hub and assemble a new
bearing onto it in advance but the hub is approximately $100 or more each.
That design goes all the way back to 1991 and up you don’t have to remove
the whole knuckle assembly off of the car just undo the CV shaft nut, undo
the lower ball joint nut break the lower ball joint free from the knuckle
pull the knuckle assembly away then you can have a machinist or you can buy
the remover (Looks like a steel hockey puck with a pilot on it). Insert the
remover into the bearing and bang it out with a mallet.
Check Eric the Car guys version. Much simpler than this guys hard to
understand method
this vehicle is a piece of shit ,, and i dont a give fuck of any of you
agree or not!! dont replay to my fucking comment
any help is always worth it thanks.
Great video though Brad
Hmm… I hated that design when I found out about this 8 years ago, so 5
years ago I found a slide in and out conversion kit that lets your rotors
slide out just as easy as the rear and you can easily replace the hub or
bearings. It’s totally worth it! Piece of cake every time you do the job.
Nothing’s compressed r needing spell tools r ard banging anything in or
out. Now I’m loving the car a whole lot more.
Wow. Wish I saw this video before I started the job. I have no access to a
press. What a stupid set up. I have never encountered something like this
that I couldn’t just figure out on my own. How dumb. So frustrating haha.
Great video
Do i really have to remove the entire knuckle to replace the wheel bearing?
Can i just remove the calipers and then after remove the 4 bolts that holds
the wheel assembly from behind the knuckle that way the wheel hub assembly
comes right out??? I’m trying to replace my wheel bearings but don’t wanna
go through the whole hassle in removing the whole knuckle out
thanks for this vid because i was going to try to do this myself, and i
dont have the tools nor access to a press. Looks like i’m going to have to
drop $550 on this now.
excellent video you
when you have that spindle and everything put together, should there be any
looseness or any play whatsoever from the bearing? I recently purchased a
used spindle that came with a rotor in great condition and a lower ball
joint in a great condition. The bearing rotates silky smooth, but it has
some play there. You can wiggle the bearing a tiny bit and press it in and
out…. NOrmal?
Ya disregard that comment. Left muy youtube signed in
Thanks for the reply. I already put that knuckle assembly in. With the axle
in and everything tightened down, there’s no wheel play or looseness there.
Not to say the bearing is the best it could have been because before I got
this one shipped to me, I went to my local junkyard and pulled the same
part out and don’t remember any play there at all. I couldn’t use that
first spindle and returned it though because it was non-abs – it didn’t
have the holes for the abs sensor and such. Thanks again
Fuck tard