A couple other things:
My original pump has a pulse dampener ( looks like the top of a brake fluid reservoir – that gets tossed and replaced by the hose and 2 clamps. I tried to remove the old screen but it was swaged on so it just ripped off – i didn’t know !!! I went back to O’Reilly’s and they said the screen was an extra $8 – why doesn’t it come with the kit and why did they not suggest i might need one ???
One last thing – If your fuel pump was bad how did you drive it on the ramps??
-t
Thank you for this video – BUT – there were a few things not addressed:
I would have missed the quick connect and broken the ground had i not already broken it just feeling around up there, it was ready to go – the moron who i got it from had a shoe lace thru the quick connect hole but ground was still screwed down.
Never owned a car newer than “79 Lincoln – mechanical fuel pumps…
Thanks for the video. I’m going to need to fix a 1997 Tahoe that someone didn’t put back together correctly…it’s leaking from the seal. I think it has the same style sending unit on a plastic tank.
Huge thanx for posting this. I probably could have done this without the video, but it was a huge help & took all the exploritory steps out. Because of this video, i did everything you showed & it took $90 & about an hour to do. The only extra step was that my suburban has a metal plate that covers & protects the whole tank that i had to removed first. That plate/cover was held on with seven (7) 13 mm bolts. Once again, thank you for this video. 🙂
you could do as some have done and cut an opening in your floor…then make an access cover. Would be nice if GMC designed that area with an access panel. but hey removing it is not all that hard…just a bit tedious.
I broke the ground during the tear down. But that is a very good thing to note. Folks should always check your wiring. Bad connections are the number one problem in electrical repairs.
Help me locate and replace fuel pressure regulator on my 1996 GMC Suburban, 2500, 4×4, engine 7.4. I will appreciate all the help possible, or you could also help me a lot with the name of a page or a link, thank you very much.
Nice video..but I do have a couple comments..I find it easier to lift the bed rather than drop the tank ( that way everything is right there..easy to get to ) and you commented about how you repaired your ground wire..that mighta been all that was wrong. I’ve seen that many times.
I figured it out. The old strainer collar was still on the pump end. You cant put the new one on with the old one there,….duh. It broke off clean so I didnt even notice. Thanks for making this video.
great vid,…of coarse yours came out and went in way easier. Straps off and it wouldn’t drop. No rocks, no wedging,…freakin kebler magic was holding it up. With a cargo strap, a 2×4 & a friend beating on it with a hunk of wood it finally gave way.
Now pretty straight fwd as far as the pump goes but my strainer just fell apart and I am not getting what holds the new strainer in place. Lil help please. (fig I would get stuck on the no brainer part)
Carquest had problems with their fuel pumps when Airtex was their fuel pump supplier.Lot of them came back and warranty claims denied.Airtex calls it installer error.Carquest now has Delphi make their GM fuel pumps,no failures yet.I would not put an airtex in anything
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I’ve followed these steps and my tank still won’t come out. Any suggestions
well done on the video. I was hoping for a a removable tab inside the cab but oh well. Thankyou for the helpful video.
A couple other things:
My original pump has a pulse dampener ( looks like the top of a brake fluid reservoir – that gets tossed and replaced by the hose and 2 clamps. I tried to remove the old screen but it was swaged on so it just ripped off – i didn’t know !!! I went back to O’Reilly’s and they said the screen was an extra $8 – why doesn’t it come with the kit and why did they not suggest i might need one ???
One last thing – If your fuel pump was bad how did you drive it on the ramps??
-t
Thank you for this video – BUT – there were a few things not addressed:
I would have missed the quick connect and broken the ground had i not already broken it just feeling around up there, it was ready to go – the moron who i got it from had a shoe lace thru the quick connect hole but ground was still screwed down.
Never owned a car newer than “79 Lincoln – mechanical fuel pumps…
Good lookin out!!! Very informative and straight to the point…
Thanks for the video. I’m going to need to fix a 1997 Tahoe that someone didn’t put back together correctly…it’s leaking from the seal. I think it has the same style sending unit on a plastic tank.
Huge thanx for posting this. I probably could have done this without the video, but it was a huge help & took all the exploritory steps out. Because of this video, i did everything you showed & it took $90 & about an hour to do. The only extra step was that my suburban has a metal plate that covers & protects the whole tank that i had to removed first. That plate/cover was held on with seven (7) 13 mm bolts. Once again, thank you for this video. 🙂
grasias my amigo
you could do as some have done and cut an opening in your floor…then make an access cover. Would be nice if GMC designed that area with an access panel. but hey removing it is not all that hard…just a bit tedious.
yep
I broke the ground during the tear down. But that is a very good thing to note. Folks should always check your wiring. Bad connections are the number one problem in electrical repairs.
Help me locate and replace fuel pressure regulator on my 1996 GMC Suburban, 2500, 4×4, engine 7.4. I will appreciate all the help possible, or you could also help me a lot with the name of a page or a link, thank you very much.
Erick.
getting gas to the pressure to the test spot but no gas in crab, i poor gas in crb and runs 97 gmc subr help please !!!
Nice video..but I do have a couple comments..I find it easier to lift the bed rather than drop the tank ( that way everything is right there..easy to get to ) and you commented about how you repaired your ground wire..that mighta been all that was wrong. I’ve seen that many times.
I figured it out. The old strainer collar was still on the pump end. You cant put the new one on with the old one there,….duh. It broke off clean so I didnt even notice. Thanks for making this video.
great vid,…of coarse yours came out and went in way easier. Straps off and it wouldn’t drop. No rocks, no wedging,…freakin kebler magic was holding it up. With a cargo strap, a 2×4 & a friend beating on it with a hunk of wood it finally gave way.
Now pretty straight fwd as far as the pump goes but my strainer just fell apart and I am not getting what holds the new strainer in place. Lil help please. (fig I would get stuck on the no brainer part)
is the check valve in the fuel pump its self or the assembly?
where do you disconnect the wire that leads to the top of the tank? thanks
Carquest had problems with their fuel pumps when Airtex was their fuel pump supplier.Lot of them came back and warranty claims denied.Airtex calls it installer error.Carquest now has Delphi make their GM fuel pumps,no failures yet.I would not put an airtex in anything
I concur.
O’reilly sells piece of shit Airtex fuel pumps with huge failure rates.Buy a Delphi or AC Delco fuel pump for a GM only.
Great video, thanks a lot man.
Really nice video, guess I will save myself a few hundred and give it a shot
most useful video so far