How to Replace Engine Water Pump 96-00 GMC K1500 V8 5.7L

How to Replace Engine Water Pump 96-00 GMC K1500 V8 5.7L

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1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a broken, bad, or leaking water pump. This video is applicable to the 96, 97, 98, 99, 00 GMC K1500

🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver
• Complete Metric Socket Set
• Adjustable Wrench
• 3/8 Inch Air Impact Gun
• 3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
• Socket Extensions
• Torque Wrench
• Anti-Freeze
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Paper Towels
• Drain Pan
• Funnel
• Hammer
• Razor Blade / Gasket Scraper

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While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.



My Name is Nobody says:

You just got me through a pain-in-the-rear replacement. Thanks for the tip on removing the fan with the mallet to the wrench. That really helped. I would also suggest removing the idler pulley; gives you better access to the hoses behind it and just gives you a little more working room altogether. Great video, keep up the good work!

8000RPM says:

Extremely helpful. Take it from me,…you also want to remove the idler pulley (one 14mm bolt)…gives you access to the bypass hoses. By the way…I would ALWAYS use RTV if I were you…

Seth H says:

I have a question. What is the part at 1:21? Its a big cylinder

Jimbob Jimbob says:

Good video but is much easier to undo hoses if you remove pulley whilst still on the vehicle. You can remove idler pulley too for even more room.

angelhelp777 says:

I would first like to say a huge thank you for making this video. I am a 62 year old shade-tree mechanic. I done my share of tune-up, brakes and a few water pumps on various vehicles over the years, but everything I worked on until today was 1986 and older. I now have a 1997 C1500 with a 5.7L engine. If I had not watched your video I would still be outside sweating in 100 degree heat trying to figure out what to do with crazy looking drive belt. Several of your tips allowed me to think and plan ahead before starting the job. Knowing which size sockets needed for which bolts was a time saver. I do have some questions.

#1 When I attempted to bolt on the new water pump, I wrestled with it for an hour trying to keep the gaskets in place until I went and bought some JB Weld Silicone Water pump gasket sealer to hold them on the ends of the new water pump. I noticed you did not put any gasket sealer on your gaskets. Was there a reason for this?

#2 It also appeared that you used removable Loc-Tight on the bolt threads. Am I correct?

#3 The biggest problem I had was lining up the two bolts on the drivers side of the pump. My wife had a doctor appointment in two days so there was no time to order from you, so I bought a new water pump from a local auto parts store. Even though it looked identical to my old water pump, it appeared that my new pump was binding against the side of the A/C compressor mount. I noticed that when you compared your old and new pump, the molded casting was a little different. Mine looked the identical but I think the outside of the casting had a bit too much metal on it. I tried loosening a two bolts on the face or the A/C mount but it didn't want to budge. I finally used a piece of wood to pry the pump slightly to get it into place. Removing the idler pulley allowed me to see the bolt holes a lot better on the block and allowed me to manipulate that small hose that you said was a pain to deal with. Have you ever had this binding problem and how did you solve it? Thank you for your help. God bless. James in Houston

Joseph Bell says:

About how much coolant did you use to refill?

Michael Massimino says:

You forgot to mention to put RTV on the bolts. I saw that you did it but did not tell why. RTV seals the water jacket.

HHR J_E_S_U_S says:

Got to get my 97 chevy Cheyenne 1500 water pump replaced got a guy that says he can do it for $200 part fluid +labor is that asking too much or what?

Al Truist says:

I wonder how many people heard "fill the overflow" and actually filled it all the way up? lol

Frank P says:

I was a customer of rockauto. Until they sent me a broken radiator that I paid extra for the next day air shipping. At witch point I tried to contact them to resolve the issue and couldn't get any kind of customer service. I ended up having to rent a car for 5 days that cost me $150 while waiting for a replacement part. Now I'm a 1A customer all the way excellent customer service and quality parts and good prices!

Ken Pulis says:

Just changed my water pump on my 1996 GMC C1500 5.7 ltr. Only comments I have is to remove 2 more bolts on bottom fan shroud to remove it and it will give much better access to drain cock and makes it easier to remove lower radiator hose. Also break 4 bolts on pulley before releasing belt. Also remove idler wheel and heater hoses will be easier to get to. Other than that all is the same. One hour job if all wrenches are readily available.

Jacob Marvin says:

Will this work for the same engine but in a 2000 Chevy k2500

Dylan Cook says:

How do you know if your water pump is serpentine belt driven or timing belt driven? Trying to buy a pump from o Reilly’s and I’m clueless. Lol

Steve O says:

Just what I thought the job would be after I had looked at the pump. A piece of cake. I'd spend the extra money and replace the belt, hoses and clamps. Easy to do while you're replacing the pump. 21 year old rubber (on my '97) is long overdue for replacement. I plan to shove the garden hose into each pump port on the block and run water thru until it comes out clean. Switch ports a few times. I've done this a few times over the years. You'd be amazed at the crud that comes out. Don't forget to do a leak check after the refilled system has come up to pressure. Thank you for posting this video 1A Auto Parts.

myron stewart says:

Thank you! That was lovely

Alan Jacobs says:

What is the cap and funnel called exactly to get the air out of the system, and are they available at the common Oreilly's? Thanks

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