Here is how to install a throttle position sensor TPS on a GMC Safari or Astro van with a 4.3 liter V6 engine with TBI injection. Installing the throttle pos…
Here is how to install a throttle position sensor TPS on a GMC Safari or Astro van with a 4.3 liter V6 engine with TBI injection. Installing the throttle pos…
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Thanks. I am sure it is something simple.
Dammit. It’s a real pain finding the source of an issue with these engines. My experience is that it ends up being something kind of simple. I just had to replace the lines going into the Plenum that lead to the spider. Best of luck.
That is what I suspected. I have taken the fuel injection system part twice and rebuilt the fuel pressure regulator and replaced the injectors, but it still stinks like gas and runs rough.
These engines identified develop fuel leaks within the Plenum/upper intake. Causes the symptoms you’re having. It happens to me and I went through everything I could think of before discovering it. Also, fuel pressure may full you because the Plenum will hold.
yes, especially if those hoses are made from any plastic or rubber material, they could be even broken without You may notice anything. Some of these materials keep, depending on climatic condition, not even 10 years tight. If there are any rodents or so in Your area and bite inside You could see damages, but the usual deterioration of the such materials causes mostly invisible leaks.
Really difficult – hope You must not buy all such parts new just for trying what it is …
yes, that Opel (97 model or so) did also not show check engine light. They called it Luftmengenmesser (air flow sensor), and it measured incoming air pressure to determine the mix … this specific part had a wire or gatter to heat the unit during cold and to dry it during humid conditions, which did not work properly, so the sensor gave wrong output when and after I went during rainfall on highway. Could reach my home and next day the garage, where they immediately identified the bad part …
MAP stands for Manifold Air Pressure, and it is connected to the intake manifold to measure the pressure inside of it, which it uses to determine the air-fuel mixture. There are a lot of hoses on the engine, and if any of them have gotten leaky, they could be causing the problem. It’s just strange that it runs so badly and stinks like gas without activating the “Check Engine” light. I even replaced the computer that lights up the “Check Engine” light, but it still didn’t light up.
sorry overread that MAP thing … 😉
must be the current abbr for what was called in my old Opel Vectra “air flow sensor” … ah, and btw: when I had the problems, they replaced the part in the garage free of costs, since they found that it was included in any product recall action which I had missed (or never heard of, since it was one of those “hidden” actions, where they exchange parts in the garage without even telling the customer about it … seems my garage had “forgotten” about …)
just learn to diagnose the original problem! 😀 i am fighting with a cold start misfire on my 85 buick! checking everything and slowly checking parts and learning how to test them to see if they are good! before buying! and slowly getting to the emc ugh…
nice symptom and checked problems description, but I miss air topics … means, if it is electrically fine, and petrol flow there, and egr works, remains the air. Any old pipes or tubes or air flow sensors which could influence the volume of air flow or any required vacuums or which could send wrong data to the system?
LOL, remembers me anyhow on that old joke:
customer: ‘could You please check the spark plugs, there must be anything wrong!’ mechanic, after 5 minutes: ‘the spark plugs are fine, but You have to replace the rest of the car …’
That distributor cap issue on my old VW took me nearly half a year – 3 months to identify definitely the cap as the problem (after exchanging cables, plugs etc.), and some weeks trying to clean it always – before I got a new one and finished the job … 😉
Not really. I just keep thinking I know what’s wrong, and then I replace the part, and I find out I was wrong. This van will be brand new when I’m done.
I suspected it might be the coil, so I replaced that a few weeks ago, but no dice. I read a really long thread on a forum, where a NASA engineer was having the same problem, replaced everything and still couldn’t fix it. The good news is that the parts replacement videos I’m making will show people how to replace parts on their vans. Hopefully in their cases it will fix the problem. If the EGR doesn’t fix it, I’ll do the MAP sensor after that.
I guess I am some what “Old School” Points carbs etc. However , this new tech can be hard to understand. I know what you mean. No Codes…When I worked for Triumph Motorcycle Press fleet 2000-2004 we had problems that did not show up as a “Fault” My 2001 Triumph Sprint St had a coil go bad #3 Thanks to obd2 ,I was able to find the problem . My Triumph was having an Intermittent coil fail. 40 seconds… Code showed coil 3 .I changed it and every thing is fine now.
wow, last week ICM, now TPS – seems, these parts have same predefined lifetime, everything breaks in the same moment 😉
It didn’t. The van stinks like gas and seems to misfire in the midrange, but there are no trouble codes. I already replaced the injectors, fuel pressure regulator, cap, rotor, and a few other things. Next I’m going to check the EGR valve.
I hope this fixes the Problems ..Also check the Crank Position sensor….