Small Block GM 2 Piece Rear Main Replacement

Small Block GM 2 Piece Rear Main Replacement

In this video I demonstrate how to replace a 2-piece rear main seal on a small block Chevy engine while still in the chassis of the car.



Paul Toler says:

Great tutorial. Nicely done.

Paul MacDonald says:

I loved that dental floss tip! Thanks!

Urban Cowboy 19D says:

Did you use any RTV for the oil pan gasket?

Brandon Rice says:

Brooo I have this cars twin

georgerodom says:

Just curious, how long have you been doing this?

HooliganX Motorsports says:

This video was a big help. I have a question though, where can I get that little white nylon tool that keeps the seal from getting cut?
I purchased a Felpro kit but it did not include the tool.

R Atom says:

Couple things. I noticed you didn't use a thin layer of rtv on the journal cap. Also, does it matter if you don't torque the cap back to the same torque?

fast eddie says:

Excellent. And what a clean shop. Am impressed with talking about how important clean mating surfaces are.

Erik Schatzel says:

When you have to loosen the other bolts to get the seal out how do you properly re tighten the bolts. Mine won't come out may need to loosen them up. Any info will help. Thanks for your time

Ben Bomer says:

Thank you for the Video! Question 1. When/where/should I use Anerobic sealer on the rear main bearing cap- I did it once on a Jeep 4.0 before..seems like it would apply here? 2. When the oil is drained entirely do you need to prime the oil pump prior to starting or is that only for a fresh rebuild? Thanks!

Reverend Whitesmoke says:

Great video!

Robert Shuttleworth says:

What a great video for the job at hand, what brand of light is that? I could have really used one today.

Tom B says:

Thanks for your input. I replaced the 2 piece rear main and piece Oil pan gasket just as you prescribed in your video. Same gasket and seal. Took my time and very methodical process used a torque wrench on all bolts. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets using the same process. Car ran for about 30 – 45 minutes and I noticed 1 drop of oil on floor under the oil pan below the rear main. Looks dry all around back of pan/gasket area but the oil is coming down behind the dust cover for the bell housing. Any suggestions? Thx

Rick Murphy says:

Great Now I am ready to tackle my 1970 Chevy Truck Thank You

Tom B says:

Excellent Video Mike. I like your work and detail…… I am replacing Rear Mail Seal and Oil Pan Gasket on a 1970 350. Using Fel Pro gasket and seal. Do you recommend a small dab of sealer on cap and block mating surface? I noticed you did not apply sealer to that cap/block area. Also I can see some wear on crank from seal but I cannot feel anything with my finger nail. I bought both Fel Pro seals the replacement you used and the offset seal for wear. Thx for your work,

Brad Faught says:

Whats your opinion on 428 pontiac with a rope seal. Graphite rope or viton? It has the scores on the crank.

peter little says:

Thanks for showing step by step on this job. Really saved me on the install.

Tyler Lee says:

By far one of the best instructional video. Thank you for taking your time to share your knowledge and expertise.

Travis Dolter says:

Great video, thanks for your help!

Thomas Knoeller says:

Hey Mike, First thank you for an great video. I have a 68 Camaro SS, with a mid 70;s 350 small block, I have a question, did you rotate the crank to No5 for clearance on the harmonic balancer, and did you have to disconnect the header flanges in order to lift the engine the 2-3 inches, Appreciate your comments, I'm on the fence, because I wont have a lift, so will be on my back. Thanks again Tom

dproulx797 says:

Superb! I really enjoyed watching this video, thanks. It was very well done and I can also appreciate the attention to detail and had a chuckle at 32:05 when you aligned your hammers.

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