When working on the older non-electronic HEI distributors, there are often worn and damaged parts. The kit shown here contains new centrifugal advance cam and weights, in addition to several pairs of springs to tailor the advance curve to the engine’s needs.
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You've covered allot of good points in your video. Thanks for the help.
Now install a 3.73:1 ring and pinion gear set in the differential.
Good video. I wouldn't recommend any more travel on the vacuum advance. Also, even on smog motors, they don't need timing much quicker than all in at 2500, unless a light car or racing. 32-36 degrees total normally on open chamber "smog motors". Some are set at 40 but that is usually with egr. Spark knock is a killer, careful. But good video, helps to make known the magic that happens in the distributor.
Great very informative video
Check out atomic efi. It helps with drivability and economy. I get 23 mpg on my 71 nova. Efi 7004r and Volvo cooling fan and relays. Serpentine belt from a 93 chevy .
And my distributor does not have a vacuum advance
Basically long story short do I need the advance curve kit for my car to start because my distributor does not have one nor did the new one come with one
Do all Distributors need advance curve kits or can it run without one? Because the distributor I bought for my Oldsmobile did not come with one only the clip to put the rotor on.. is that ok?
My distributor does not have Springs or weights can that be the cause for it not to start my vehicle.. i have a 84 olds delta88
Vacuum advance no more than 52 degrees if your grinding out
Power Steering works
Soft springs advancing early may make the engine ping, gotta listen. Also, if you have a cam with low vacuum, you can get different Echlin (NAPA) vacuum advance units for different vacuums. I think its a VR-1850 thats the lightest diaphragm for fully open @10psi. Your vacuum advance is supposed to be fully open advanced 2hg below the idle vacuum. So if you are only making 7hg of vacuum like my cam, you cant use a vacuum advance because they dont make one low enough.
Is there a video of you disassembling the distributor?
Great video. Thank you for the info.
Any ideas on what causes the rotor's metal contact strip to get as mangled as yours is/was? Looks like an arc fest waiting to happen. =)
Awesome video man, lots of good info!! Thank you so much!!
11:10 is really cool! I never saw it like that!
funny how nobody shows how to install the springs, because its a pain. I noticed that every video you find clips past the actual assembly process. . any trips or tricks on that would nice.
231cu in. Buick 3.8
I was wrong it's a Chevy v6 isn't it my bad I was looking at the placement of the distributor
spot on keep that mighty Buick running good lol a curve kit does make a big difference
you did a great job on this video, explaining and demonstrating, especially working the camera with one hand, very good job, and it's interesting how you have the sticker for the vacuum hoses still there yet it don't match the car, ha ha, so many times that sticker is gone, yet you have one but you still can't fully use it, and as far as using manifold vacuum, it does make the idle RPM go up once you hook it up, but "experts" have told me to simply just adjust your idle speed back down with the screw on the carburetor to bring it down to where you want it, like 850 RPM etc
Hi, I just picked up a new MSD distributor, my question is would it harm anything if I experimented with the different weights it came with?