This video goes through the GM 10-bolt axle overhaul. I use the GM special tools, go through the measurements, do contact pattern analysis, and much more! This was live with no editing, so you’ll get the dialog and chitter chatter that goes along with it.
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How do you take the axel out
Can I check the pinion preload with the axle shafts installed? Just putting the vehicle up on jack stands and taking the wheels off and the drive shaft off and using the inch pound torque wrench to check the preload?
Loud and clear, very impressive shop!
Working well Sir
Seriously, thank you for this video. I have 5,000 miles on my first engine rebuild (5.3 ls) and the truck needs to be re-geared. Dispite getting the thousand pieces of my engine successfully back in working order, this differential has had me scared. Mostly due to the lack of step by step documentation out there. Most everything on the internet is either "throw it together, use some contact paint, and it SHOULD be good to go" or "take it to a professional it was the worst thing I ever tried".
I have a few tools to add to my collection, but it definitely seems like something I can do correctly. Thank you. All the question marks are gone.
Would a 2004 Sierra 8.6 gm 10 bolt have the same 20-25 inch lb pinion bearing preload rotational torque spec as this 8.5? I've seen online other specs showing 14-19 inch lbs. for new bearings and also a backlash of 5 to 9 thou? thanks for any help you could provide
Thank you for this tutorial…well explained an I learned something tonight…and as always appreciate when someone is willing to share an teach there knowledge
Woulda been nice to hear diagnose of axle before you tore it down.
Pinion was too shallow and carrier needed more shim to tighten backlash, however, moving pinion deeper can correct BL I believe in some cases.
Will a 2008 rear end work in a 1995
All good information
Rebuilding same GM 10 bolt axle, preload should be 20-25, I'm at 26 or 27. Should I remove crush sleeve install a new one? Is it ok couple of lbs over. Great video, like other post it's nice see you take your time and explain….
WOW! Best video ever! I learned so much! I was looking to buy a TandD pinion depth tool,, where you have to go back and forth replacing shims to get it right,,, until,, I seen this tool which deletes that process and tells you the right shim!! Nice tool! QUESTION! I need help! My son goes through rears, 99 3/4 tom Sierra I believe 9.5 if i remember, blew the g80 locker. I purchased brand new NOS one off ebay, exact casting number, (using my same ring gear and gm bearings) went in using original GM solid shims from factory that came out, went in perfectly. The 3/4 ton has and adjuster on the one bearing side! Nice! Pattern was perfect, lash, perfect. Been fine ever since! NOW! my son had 2002 Silverado 1/2 ton 8.6 rear like what you have in this video. Roughly 136k miles, used it to plow over winter. I obviously acquired another of his left overs.. He had to drive home in 4 wheel as the rear shaft was useless. I was hoping spiders. But, it also had a clunk clunk clunk in rear. Spiders were busted,, and when they broken they broken chunk out of carrier. I found a reputable seller on Ebay who sold me a rebuilt carrier, same casting number 149, what I asked for,,, I used same ring gear,, went in beautifully having to tap in the same thick GM shim making it tight like yours, and the lash was perfect again at 5.5 thousandths ! Now, when cleaning out the housing there were a couple of spider chunks jammed a bit in the top oil galley way to the pinion. I believe that was all. I used magnet and air to see if anything else may had been in there, a limited visual inspection (cause you can't see any further down towards the pinion area) as well turning drive shaft by hand, it appeared free of any other debris. Now, back together, good lash and pattern, but clunk clunk clunk still there when test drive and spinning on lift. While on lift it sounds like pinion area! Could a bearing been damaged by a piece of broken gear? And, If I do take pinion out to replace bearings with the same replacement bearings ,, will I still need to replace crush collar??? It sounds like I may have too from your video,, but I want to be sure if I am replacing with all the same as stock like I done with carrier.? It just seems easier to reuse old one if you can?? Thank.. Hope you see this!
FOLLOW UP,, pulled it apart. felt slight clunk when turning pinion with carrier still in axles out. Pulled carrier, GM solid shim on pinion side was broken! Pinion spun freely no noise I could feel or hear! So, maybe shim issue? I am concerned because it made this clunk clunk clunk before i redone it all, and the shims were fine at that point! And, my luck,, gm shim kit I have is for smaller bearing. I have to order right kit, or try and find same thickness gm solid shim.. will up date, unless you have other things to look at? thank you!
OKY DOKY ,, update! After pullig it all apart, I found and ordered off ebay, the same cast type gm shims. After waiting days to get them, mic it all to be sure,, the damn things broken going back in again. And they dont get caught by anything, the broken pieces fall into the shaft tube, (to who replied below). So,I had also bought the Yukon shim kit! Well, I was not happy due to the thicknesses NOT printed on the shim, and ?i had to play , try the mixture until I got the right size on each size that matched the cast gm shims. Anyway,, Like I stated replying to someone who replied to me,, once out, I found a knicked tooth om the pinion. I used a die grinder to smooth it down to what I believed was close to normal! Got it back together. Had to play with shims a couple of times to get the right ring backlash, and the noise, clunk, was faintly still there. But after driving a bit, eventually went away! So, I believe it was the knicked pinion tooth, and it eventually was worn to not be an issue after a few miles! But, good thing it did make the noise in the beginning, because I learned that cast shim was broken with pieces in the shaft tube that woulda eventually caused me a messed up rear again once they traveled around the rear. So, in my 3/4 ton,, I was able to reuse the gm cast shims on a new carrier , because, the 3/4 ton has a screw out and in adjustment on the pass side of rear that you count the turns out to pull carrier and shims, reuse shims, then count turns of adjuster in reverse on install! But the 1/2 ton,, screw reusing those cast shims and go right to a shim kit like yukon or close. because most likely the cast shims will break and you will not know it until back together and possibly too late . I really hope someone learned or got something out of all this typing and learning I went through! Good luck to you all! And thank to the guys who replied!!
This is an excellent video. I have been drag racing for a lot of years and set up lots of gears for racers and it's always a pleasure to see a video with this much detail. Thank you for uploading such a fine video.
BEST WAY TO GET A BROKEN CROSS SHAFT OUT ?
I searched all over for the understanding of carrier preload to the side bearings and cound not find anything but pinion pre-load..Now I know to add .004 to each side after backlash and exceptiable markings and verify that the pinion pre-load goes up 5-8 inch lbs more than the initial pinion pre-load. Great instructions…
I bought a brand new MAF sensor and still brings up a p0101 code, if I where to unplug it it would idle but badly. As soon as I would plug in the MAF sensor she would die. I was wondering what could it be?