Coolant Leak (Part 1) GM 5.0L & 5.7L Vortec Engines

Coolant Leak (Part 1) GM 5.0L & 5.7L Vortec Engines

Coolant leaks on GM 5.0L & 5.7L Vortec Engines built between 1995 and 2002 can some times be attributed to the stock plastic intake manifold gaskets. This vi…

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Megan Nealy says:

21:12 in the video

Megan Nealy says:

Whats up Ed? 1st off great video, easy to follow for the do it yourselfers, like myself. Got a ? for you, any advice would be great. The heater hose near the front driver side, 22mm fitting, 22:12 time mark on the video, very difficult to remove, lubed it well with Aero Kroil over night to help loosen, now starting to strip the fitting. First time with this job, no problems till now. any suggestions?

Darion Frostad says:

This video helped a lot got it all changed and it started up first time

Gerald C says:

my 97 pickup 350 was losing water so bad.. did 3 pressure test without leak showing up..had heads pulled gaskets replaced 2 weeks later needed water.. had an emergency run to hospital. cracked both heads and block. now have new motor with no leaks 12,000 miles now …. one thing could have helped if using the right antifreeze be sure right one. and if engine or intake is pulled be sure all the ground wires are put back on — now mine has a very bad rear light problem — been fixed 3 times

Liberty Lackey says:

themostat housing bolts were both 14 on mine, the ground was attached to ac comp.

Liberty Lackey says:

heater hose that sits on the top left with the qwik disconnect, the disconnects go bad & leak.

9102jack says:

if the leak is near the front passenger side bank, it could be the aluminum heater hose coupling. they corrode out and crack near the threads where they go into the head and need to be broken off and the busted threads removed. fun job if that’s what it is

hoghogwild says:

At6 4:10-4:12, you dont bend those 2 clips at all, you simply unscrew the T-handle that is located abiout 4-5″ behind those clips. WIth the the T-handle off you then pull the whole assembly forward and up and it all comes free. The T-handle is like the old air breather hold down wing nuts, except the Vortec ones are plastic and about 4-5″ long.
I never mark any connections as each connector only fits in single spot, you cant mix them up.
You dont need to move a/c compressor
Good video though

6043ron says:

Boy, this brings back a nightmare, not the job, just the problem I had. Like he says, it is time consuming, 12 hrs start to finish for me. Pay attention to everything too, just like he says. It’s really an easy job. I had the 5.7
I would have to applaud the video maker for this vid. I wouldn’t want any distractions when I was doing mine.

Chris M. says:

Very nice video. I am about to replace intake&headgaskets on 96 burb. I have done plenty of engine swaps but this will be my 1st time to remove and reinstall the topend of engine. I feel much more confident going into this project now.

Ed Pastore says:

That is a difficult question to answer because leaks can be so elusive. If unable to trace where a leak is coming from with an initial inspection my next step is to use Coolant System Fluorescent Tracer Dye. This product is a fluorescent leak detection dye specifically made for traditional coolant systems. It can help pinpoint the exact location of coolant fluid leaks. It does however require a fluorescent inspection lamp.

pooton2 says:

I’m leaking a small amount of coolant near the front of the engine. How can I tell if its the intake manifold or the water pump?

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