Nice repair. When it comes to expensive parts that when mechanics tend to
get a little more involved diagnostically to ensure they’re making the
right call. Your diligence and determination made sure the right solution
was found. Another great video Brian!
So you just shove pins into the wires to check for continuity? If
everything had checked out do you just tape up the wires that you checked
when done, or something else?
Another great video Brian! Do you use 1A Auto much for parts? I need a few
things just wanted to check with you on the quality of parts and service.
Also can you give me some advise on what Dewalt drill and small impact you
recommend ie. voltage, size etc I noticed you use them often for removing
fasteners etc I need to get a new set. Sorry for all the dumb newbie
question love the videos appreciate you taking time out of your busy day to
make them for us they really have helped me a ton. Its great to see a down
to earth great guy sharing auto repair knowledge you sure have a ton of
knowledge pretty freakin cool. Wishing you and your family a great week.
Paul
Most guys would have installed the part without doing the checks on the
wiring thus costing the owner more. Great job tracking down the issue, and
I am still wondering why it didn’t blow a fuse.
Nice video, I have seen this problem first hand. The vans have such
limited underhood space that everything ends up getting very hot, which can
melt the wires over time. Did you look for any IAC valve for a 2003
Express 3500? 2003 was the first year for the Express/Savana redesign with
the LS Series 6.0, and last I checked an IAC valve was still available.
Another excellent video, Brian. By the way, one day can you give us a walk
through of how you approach an air whistle sound from the door when
driving? Seems like a common problem with GM vehicles.
If a BM Trouble U ever come into your garage with a P1093 diagnostic
trouble code, it could also be the Idle Air Control. Had the code and
replaced the precat 02 sensor, but the code kept poping back up. Read on
the E46 fanatic forum that after replacing many parts while trying to track
down the problem, the last part the owner replaced was the IAC and he never
got that code again.
that is a nasty fault. so did the wire melt from the short, or did it melt
from the heat in the engine bay and did that cause the short?
btw, is there a reason why you’re using a separate scanner instead of
Torque Pro on your phone together with a bluetooth ELM327 adapter? total
cost is like $10 and it can do much much more.
Good morning! This video took some interesting turns. I got to use some of
my garage “gold dust” to pull off a big win. I sure learned some things. At
the end I put some funny Memes that I enjoyed. There are some cuss words-
not many, but some.
it’s not nuts for the automotive engineers ,,, they are keeping their job
security ,, and the hell with the consumer , almost every ”new ” thing
they put on vehicles today is unnecessary ,, the sad truth is,, any ten
year old can build a ninetys car on a computer , but schools are pushing
out engineers to a false sense of need
With your spare connector, I’d be worried about the sockets on the end of
each wire inside the connector being too large/small for the pins inside
the IAC valve. If they are loose then you might get an intermittent
connection. The spare connectors sockets seemed much bigger then the stock
connectors. http://www.rockauto.com has the connector for $8 (Standard Motor Products Part #
HP3895) and throttle bodies for $140-$260. Sadly, they don’t have an IAC
valve for this truck that I could find.
I’ve got a gen 1 power probe I inherited from my father when he passed
away. Handy tool, wish I had the newer model. But for what I do it works
great. Glad to see someone else honest and willing to think before just
throwing parts at it
Looks like it is inside an oven, look how baked the alternator windings
are, they were never like that new. Looks like they just thought to make it
last out the warranty period and anything above that was just luck.
Hey Brian Whats up? Love watching your vids. Just wanted to let you know,
even though im sure you are probably aware. Amazon is a great place to buy
Automotive parts from. I buy stuff for my truck sometimes off there. And
what really cool is they carry all kinds of brands. If you have GM they
have your ACDELCO and or Delphi, if you have a Ford they have your
Motorcraft. But if you like certain aftermarket brands, they have many of
those as well.
I did look up a Idle Air Control Valve for that van just cause i was
curious, even though you found out it was the wire, and it came up with
nothing. Kinda odd. I even tried looking up a 2003 and a 2005 and 2006 and
still get nothing. No ACDELCO or Delphi. Weird.
But anyways. I just wanted to say i love your vids and will keep on
watching them as you post them. Also wanted to tell you about Amazon, which
im sure your aware of.
Well keep up the cool and very entertaining Videos.
Did the wires and the plug just melt from the heat put out by the
alternator? Because the wire does not look like it’s a very high current
wire? Very flimsy wire.
check out the autel md802 scanner its what you need brian especially with
all the modules new cars have these days! can you do a video on what a can
bus is and how it even works thanks
Gm has had connector problems for years it seems. I had a gm tech (buddy)
order me a pin kit from there supplier and it even came with removel tools.
Awsome kit. I dont have no info on it because I no longer wrench for a
living. I was always nervous about connector repairs coming back on me .
Because you never know if the component was the cause of the ressistance or
if it was the connection. My gm buddy told me most of the time it was the
pins opening up and pushing out of the connector. I sure lost a lot of time
on gm wiring connectors in my day !!! Great video Brian :}
Why not use a multi-meter to do the continuity test instead of the Power
Probe?
Also, your test was kind of invalid. A continuity test (even with a
multi-meter) will give you a false positive if every tiny metal wire inside
the wire is broken, except for one. That condition would cause some serious
heat in the wire too. A better test is a voltage drop test. It would tell
you in one test if you have an open, short or excessive resistance.
Erg, couple of things Brian, and you’re probably going to hate me…
The “intermittent” signal you were getting is correct when using a power
probe. The circuit is actually two ADC circuits (Alternating Direct
Current, meaning it switches polarity) that drive an internal stepper
motor, and a feedback-sensing position circuit. If you see yourself
working on any GM IAC systems (non-DBW), invest in a GM IAC Noid light.
They’re typically about $40-$50, and I’ve heard rumors that some auto parts
stores carry them. You’ll need bidirectional scantool control in order to
use it, though. When in doubt, unbolt the IAC from the throttle body and
position it facing away from important things, then cycle the ignition to
KOEO. If all is well, the IAC pintle will fly across the room. Good
luck… XD
Secondly, double, triple, quadruple check the VIN. 2004 Express vans were
DBW. 2003 had a separate IAC. It’s possible it’s a transition model,
however, in which case the 2003 IAC valve will work, and are available.
Third, and more just for FUN FACT TIME!!!(tm), that style of IAC is very
common, but the pintle design on the end is what changes. Sometimes
(SOMETIMES…), you can interchange them, but not always. The one you were
looking at on the O’Reilly website, for instance, may or may not work on
GMs. The exposed spring can create enough turbulence that the car won’t
idle right, and will eventually throw a code. Ask me how I know this…
😉 Where it gets REALLY fun, is that some model GM cars will use two
different IAC numbers, which have ever so slightly different pintle
designs, and you have to get the casting number off the throttle body in
order to determine which IAC to use. Always always ALWAYS cross-reference
the throttle body casting if you can, particularly with late-90s GMs. When
in doubt, throw part number AC160 at it; it seems to be the most
widely-compatible IAC for GM throttle bodies. 🙂
And finally, if you’re going to Hell, mention my name; you’ll get a good
seat. ;-D
That was a great repair. Thanks for making a video of the thought process
you went through. Best part – look at the 1998 wire gauge compared to the
2004 wire gauge. LOL.
){kind=link}
Nice repair. When it comes to expensive parts that when mechanics tend to
get a little more involved diagnostically to ensure they’re making the
right call. Your diligence and determination made sure the right solution
was found. Another great video Brian!
So you just shove pins into the wires to check for continuity? If
everything had checked out do you just tape up the wires that you checked
when done, or something else?
Hi Brian –
You also can look at Rock Auto for many parts –
Good fine of the bad wire – saved your friend tons of money .
Those poor wires oh the horror.
they have the whole throttle body from acdelco on rockauto.com for about
261 dollars. i feel sry for the poor sap who paid nearly 6 hundred for that
Another great video Brian! Do you use 1A Auto much for parts? I need a few
things just wanted to check with you on the quality of parts and service.
Also can you give me some advise on what Dewalt drill and small impact you
recommend ie. voltage, size etc I noticed you use them often for removing
fasteners etc I need to get a new set. Sorry for all the dumb newbie
question love the videos appreciate you taking time out of your busy day to
make them for us they really have helped me a ton. Its great to see a down
to earth great guy sharing auto repair knowledge you sure have a ton of
knowledge pretty freakin cool. Wishing you and your family a great week.
Paul
Most guys would have installed the part without doing the checks on the
wiring thus costing the owner more. Great job tracking down the issue, and
I am still wondering why it didn’t blow a fuse.
Nice video, I have seen this problem first hand. The vans have such
limited underhood space that everything ends up getting very hot, which can
melt the wires over time. Did you look for any IAC valve for a 2003
Express 3500? 2003 was the first year for the Express/Savana redesign with
the LS Series 6.0, and last I checked an IAC valve was still available.
Another excellent video, Brian. By the way, one day can you give us a walk
through of how you approach an air whistle sound from the door when
driving? Seems like a common problem with GM vehicles.
If a BM Trouble U ever come into your garage with a P1093 diagnostic
trouble code, it could also be the Idle Air Control. Had the code and
replaced the precat 02 sensor, but the code kept poping back up. Read on
the E46 fanatic forum that after replacing many parts while trying to track
down the problem, the last part the owner replaced was the IAC and he never
got that code again.
that is a nasty fault. so did the wire melt from the short, or did it melt
from the heat in the engine bay and did that cause the short?
btw, is there a reason why you’re using a separate scanner instead of
Torque Pro on your phone together with a bluetooth ELM327 adapter? total
cost is like $10 and it can do much much more.
An interesting video that shows your skills along with your honesty and
integrity. Did you return the new part to the dealer without any hassle?
You should try it…Just stuff the Jeeps IAC into that Chevy or vice versa
and see what happens, record it so we can see the explo…..I
mean….result.
Good morning! This video took some interesting turns. I got to use some of
my garage “gold dust” to pull off a big win. I sure learned some things. At
the end I put some funny Memes that I enjoyed. There are some cuss words-
not many, but some.
it’s not nuts for the automotive engineers ,,, they are keeping their job
security ,, and the hell with the consumer , almost every ”new ” thing
they put on vehicles today is unnecessary ,, the sad truth is,, any ten
year old can build a ninetys car on a computer , but schools are pushing
out engineers to a false sense of need
With your spare connector, I’d be worried about the sockets on the end of
each wire inside the connector being too large/small for the pins inside
the IAC valve. If they are loose then you might get an intermittent
connection. The spare connectors sockets seemed much bigger then the stock
connectors.
http://www.rockauto.com has the connector for $8 (Standard Motor Products Part #
HP3895) and throttle bodies for $140-$260. Sadly, they don’t have an IAC
valve for this truck that I could find.
I’ve got a gen 1 power probe I inherited from my father when he passed
away. Handy tool, wish I had the newer model. But for what I do it works
great. Glad to see someone else honest and willing to think before just
throwing parts at it
Looks like it is inside an oven, look how baked the alternator windings
are, they were never like that new. Looks like they just thought to make it
last out the warranty period and anything above that was just luck.
Hey Brian Whats up? Love watching your vids. Just wanted to let you know,
even though im sure you are probably aware. Amazon is a great place to buy
Automotive parts from. I buy stuff for my truck sometimes off there. And
what really cool is they carry all kinds of brands. If you have GM they
have your ACDELCO and or Delphi, if you have a Ford they have your
Motorcraft. But if you like certain aftermarket brands, they have many of
those as well.
I did look up a Idle Air Control Valve for that van just cause i was
curious, even though you found out it was the wire, and it came up with
nothing. Kinda odd. I even tried looking up a 2003 and a 2005 and 2006 and
still get nothing. No ACDELCO or Delphi. Weird.
But anyways. I just wanted to say i love your vids and will keep on
watching them as you post them. Also wanted to tell you about Amazon, which
im sure your aware of.
Well keep up the cool and very entertaining Videos.
Take Care
Ohh,connecting control lines to +12V.. No bueno. Use a DMM.
Did the wires and the plug just melt from the heat put out by the
alternator? Because the wire does not look like it’s a very high current
wire? Very flimsy wire.
check out the autel md802 scanner its what you need brian especially with
all the modules new cars have these days! can you do a video on what a can
bus is and how it even works thanks
Nice job, those power probes are one nice tool to have.
Good old experience strikes again! Good work!
Gm has had connector problems for years it seems. I had a gm tech (buddy)
order me a pin kit from there supplier and it even came with removel tools.
Awsome kit. I dont have no info on it because I no longer wrench for a
living. I was always nervous about connector repairs coming back on me .
Because you never know if the component was the cause of the ressistance or
if it was the connection. My gm buddy told me most of the time it was the
pins opening up and pushing out of the connector. I sure lost a lot of time
on gm wiring connectors in my day !!! Great video Brian :}
Fan-spankin-tastic! I bet Tom was excited to not have to pay $600 for that
part!!!
excellent! I have a 06. Thankfully not this problem yet.
Why not use a multi-meter to do the continuity test instead of the Power
Probe?
Also, your test was kind of invalid. A continuity test (even with a
multi-meter) will give you a false positive if every tiny metal wire inside
the wire is broken, except for one. That condition would cause some serious
heat in the wire too. A better test is a voltage drop test. It would tell
you in one test if you have an open, short or excessive resistance.
I bet your customers get a kick out of seeing their vehicle being repaired
by you on YouTube.
Erg, couple of things Brian, and you’re probably going to hate me…
The “intermittent” signal you were getting is correct when using a power
probe. The circuit is actually two ADC circuits (Alternating Direct
Current, meaning it switches polarity) that drive an internal stepper
motor, and a feedback-sensing position circuit. If you see yourself
working on any GM IAC systems (non-DBW), invest in a GM IAC Noid light.
They’re typically about $40-$50, and I’ve heard rumors that some auto parts
stores carry them. You’ll need bidirectional scantool control in order to
use it, though. When in doubt, unbolt the IAC from the throttle body and
position it facing away from important things, then cycle the ignition to
KOEO. If all is well, the IAC pintle will fly across the room. Good
luck… XD
Secondly, double, triple, quadruple check the VIN. 2004 Express vans were
DBW. 2003 had a separate IAC. It’s possible it’s a transition model,
however, in which case the 2003 IAC valve will work, and are available.
Third, and more just for FUN FACT TIME!!!(tm), that style of IAC is very
common, but the pintle design on the end is what changes. Sometimes
(SOMETIMES…), you can interchange them, but not always. The one you were
looking at on the O’Reilly website, for instance, may or may not work on
GMs. The exposed spring can create enough turbulence that the car won’t
idle right, and will eventually throw a code. Ask me how I know this…
😉 Where it gets REALLY fun, is that some model GM cars will use two
different IAC numbers, which have ever so slightly different pintle
designs, and you have to get the casting number off the throttle body in
order to determine which IAC to use. Always always ALWAYS cross-reference
the throttle body casting if you can, particularly with late-90s GMs. When
in doubt, throw part number AC160 at it; it seems to be the most
widely-compatible IAC for GM throttle bodies. 🙂
And finally, if you’re going to Hell, mention my name; you’ll get a good
seat. ;-D
Cool Extras! Nice work on the main event… Roll back the clocks…
That was great.
Very informative.
Thank you
Hes Dr. Franken Mechanic!
Nice work detective! Saved the customer a lot of wasted money.
When possible I prefer to solder wires and not rely on twisting them
together alone for a solid mechanical connection.
Thanks for sharing sure makes my life easier
Great vid. I bet the owner was very happy that he didn’t have to spend
$600+.
That was a great repair. Thanks for making a video of the thought process
you went through. Best part – look at the 1998 wire gauge compared to the
2004 wire gauge. LOL.
Hey Brian, have you checked out ScannerDanners Channel/Videos? He is a car
god when it come to electrical problems.
Awesome diagnostic video
Thanks for sharing,,
great job man,well done!!!