[pedantic point] Running the red wire from the plug to the battery post is the "totally works but totally lazy" way to wire a 10si. The red wire is the voltage reference wire that tells the regulator to raise or lower output. You're supposed to run the red wire to a point where you see the highest voltage drop, so the whole system sees full voltage. [/pedantic point]
First off, big ups to this guy for putting up this video and getting me in the right direction, thanks!! much good karma to you!! So if you fit the car for a 65 amp GM alternator and then replace the ground and power with 2 gauge welding cable with copper terminals, you can drop in a 200 amp aftermarket GM alternator like I did. You will end up running a 2 gauge cable straight from the alternator with a fuse in between, as for the +12v exciting wire there is already one on the original alternator, so need need to run one from inside the fuse box. As for the bracket you will need a standard aftermarket classic gm alternator bracket , along with some spacers to connect the bracket from the mount to the alternator, also a washer as a spacer for the top mount. As for the pulley it's off a mk2, its the best I can describe a cup style pulley, It's also the type that comes on the Bosch alternators for the mk1. So now with my 200 amp alternator I can run my 1500 watt L7 kicker subwoofer and speakers no problem! Not to mention the headlights and parking lights with ease! I also replaced all exterior lights with low profile LEDs and Bright led headlights, also got the led flasher unit so the turn signals don't fast flash.
I've got a bad alternator and I'm considering using a 10si one wire for the sake of simplicity. Turns out though it only puts out 63 amps, which is about the same as the stock one and from what I've read the stock ones tend to fail because they put out such low amperage. Have you run into any issues when you've got all your electronics running, i.e. defroster on high AND headlights AND a modern head unit?
I might have just scored my very own 1st '84 Rabbit 1.6D. Waiting to go pick it up this next Sunday. Keep them videos coming, they're definitely helpful.
Gotta love the unquestionably crazy nonsense of the automotive world… That alternator should be way overkill for the VW, probably won't need to replace it, but did you ever fix the brakes?
Listen, I need a part 6 or you're going to have to sell me this piece.
That bracket is neat.
Ok. Where are the rest of the videos??? Did you get it working? What did it look like when you were done? Any video of you driving it???
[pedantic point]
Running the red wire from the plug to the battery post is the "totally works but totally lazy" way to wire a 10si. The red wire is the voltage reference wire that tells the regulator to raise or lower output. You're supposed to run the red wire to a point where you see the highest voltage drop, so the whole system sees full voltage.
[/pedantic point]
First off, big ups to this guy for putting up this video and getting me in the right direction, thanks!! much good karma to you!!
So if you fit the car for a 65 amp GM alternator and then replace the ground and power with 2 gauge welding cable with copper terminals, you can drop in a 200 amp aftermarket GM alternator like I did. You will end up running a 2 gauge cable straight from the alternator with a fuse in between, as for the +12v exciting wire there is already one on the original alternator, so need need to run one from inside the fuse box. As for the bracket you will need a standard aftermarket classic gm alternator bracket , along with some spacers to connect the bracket from the mount to the alternator, also a washer as a spacer for the top mount. As for the pulley it's off a mk2, its the best I can describe a cup style pulley, It's also the type that comes on the Bosch alternators for the mk1. So now with my 200 amp alternator I can run my 1500 watt L7 kicker subwoofer and speakers no problem! Not to mention the headlights and parking lights with ease! I also replaced all exterior lights with low profile LEDs and Bright led headlights, also got the led flasher unit so the turn signals don't fast flash.
Gotta give props to the old AC/Delco electronics division of GM. They really did build some good shit.
long pulley alternator is replacement when not using ac got mine 2nd try at autozone.
I've got a bad alternator and I'm considering using a 10si one wire for the sake of simplicity. Turns out though it only puts out 63 amps, which is about the same as the stock one and from what I've read the stock ones tend to fail because they put out such low amperage. Have you run into any issues when you've got all your electronics running, i.e. defroster on high AND headlights AND a modern head unit?
I might have just scored my very own 1st '84 Rabbit 1.6D. Waiting to go pick it up this next Sunday. Keep them videos coming, they're definitely helpful.
What about the battery light? Where do you hook that up?
That thing is still loud as hell. I guess that is The only thing that can't be fixed or why even bother.
THANK YOU. I have an 81 rabbit 1.6d and I'm pretty sure it's already got a Chevy alternator on it! This helped a lot.
But does it have brakes?
Gotta love the unquestionably crazy nonsense of the automotive world… That alternator should be way overkill for the VW, probably won't need to replace it, but did you ever fix the brakes?