How to remove an exhaust manifold from a 2000 F150 5.4L Part 3: Removing manifold and drilling out a seized stud. For step-by-step text and still pictures of this procedure see: http://www.original…
Removing the exhaust manifold from a 5.4L Ford F150 part 3: Drilling out a seized stud.
69
Like
Save
){kind=link}
Comments
Write a comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
Dude that 44D drill level was awesome. When you got that bolt out without
having to re-tap I was actually laughing for you. Just purely epic. Great
video, thank you. I have a manifold leak but will probably just take it to
the shop…
Good job on getting those out! I enjoyed the video.
Dude, I don’t even own a Ford F-150, or a truck for that matter. I stumbled
upon video #1 and was rooting for you, so I ended up watching all 3 parts.
Nice work!!!
Im gonna go have a coffee now.
I’m putting new ones on mine (2003 ford exp) looks like I’m going to heat
them up but if all fails I know where to look for help! thanks T.O.M
I’m in the middle of replacing my passenger side manifold. Somebody before
me tried to remove it, and they broke off 3 studs. The two studs closest to
the firewall are broke off inside the head, the third was still sticking
out maybe 1/2″.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d803b3127cca2228a0f25f1c00000010O00IcuGrhm0atAe3bjo/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00405438058920140622185218872.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/?tn=173500124
Harbor Freight had a 1/2″ drive stud extractor on sale for $3.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-stud-extractor-69466.html
Best $3 I ever spent! The six remaining studs I cooled with freon
(electronics coolant called “Super Cold”), then they came out without any
problems.
The back two studs I have center drilled. I started with a Vix bit to
dimple the centers. To make sure I stay centered and straight, I built a
jig.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d803b3127cca222897189e4500000010O00IcuGrhm0atAe3bjo/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00405438058920140622183819304.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/?tn=249327047
I had to buy a Makita DA3010 right angle drill to get in there. Nothing I
had would fit in there.
I’ve heated them, cooled them, used left hand drill bits, 3 kinds of
lubricant sprays and an easy-out. No luck… I will have to drill them out
and replace them with heli-coils. :-(
Excellent video. I’ve been so many times in what seems like an impossible
situation in the middle of a repair and you give me inspiration to be
patient and keep at it.
Best way to do it is to use a MIG to weld a nut onto the end of the stud.
The heat from the welding will help it break free then you use the nut to
turn it out with a socket.
Awesome. thank you. good job
Did you go with a aftermarket Manifold or was it from the dealer. The
dealer wants $195.00 After market is $75.00. What do you think. I have
2002 F 150
I broke two studs on my 05 had to use a right angel drill took forever but
finally got it. made sure I used stage 8 locking header bolts so I didnt
have this issue again. Nice Work
Thanks you Great Job.
Good job on the repair! I’ve done two F150s a 01′ and an 03′ in my family
that had a few broken studs. The easiest way was to use a bolt extractor
kit for the studs that you could get a bite on. Works awesome. For the ones
that were broke off flush I used a compact right angle pneumatic drill with
left hand drill bits. Then used a Irwin easy out. I had one stud back right
out with a LH bit Works like a charm. Everything I used I bought at Harbor
Freight. Just a FYI. The 4.6s are a pain in the butt to do. The 5.4s have a
little more room to work with.
I’m preparing to replace my exhaust manifolds on my ’99 F250 with 5.4l
engine, and I found your video on YouTube. You gave me some idea of what to
expect. Thanks!
I am wondering why you didn’t use stainless steel bolts to replace the
studs?
I may try to build a jig that will locate the center of a broken stud, and
at the same time to align my drill bit at 90 degrees from the head. Not
sure how much room there will be for a jig and a right angle drill…?
I’ve already bought a left handed drill bit set and a new extractor set in
anticipation of the “fight”.
Good job brother!! Just paid my tech $900 which included a new mani and
studs to do this job which i had no time or patience……5/8 studs broke
on him but he got’er done!
Great vid!
Way to go. I was afraid to use much heat on the aluminum, but I did try a
little to no avail.
f150 for 2007 is exactly the same job? the engine is the same so ca should
look like? Great video, thanks!
use locking pliers and pb blaster. mine was the driver side and there is
less space there via abs module, front diff, coolent elbow, oil filter
exc….
I’m glad you enjoyed it. I don’t know if the 2007 is exactly the same as
the 2000 I did the repair on.
i am going to do this job on my truck this week, and tips? also what kind
of screw extractor is that? i think i might be needing one…thanks and
great video!
I used a “Triumph” extractor, size 3. Use a 5/32″ drill for the final size.
Take your time center punching it and use good sharp bits, starting with a
small size and building up to 5/32″. I hope they all come out cleanly for
you. Good luck and I’m glad you liked the video.
Cracking sound @7:40. YeSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!
HEAT!! just did mine but because they are aluminum heads. every local
mechanic told me so and i had a stud like yours that was stubborn and
heated it and came right out.