NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Rusty Coolant Flush Procedure

NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Rusty Coolant Flush Procedure

Follow my power flush procedure you can do with ordinary household items. This procedure will get the vast majority of that rust and sediment out shy of pull…

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craze1701 says:

+FordTechMakuloco I’m going to change my radiator. Should I flush before
or after changing it?

65Superhawk says:

So on the Taurus (mine is a 02 LX 3.0L U code), there is not a radiator cap
that allows you to fill directly into the radiator? 

Andrew S says:

I know you recommend the VC9 but it’s rather expensive and I don’t want to
wait for it to ship from Amazon. I just got a bottle of Prestone’s “super
flush”.

The label says you can leave it in while you drive around for 5 days or so.
Is this safe to do?

Thomas Aiello says:

me again another great video so hds are in eng all buttoned up nothing left
over and i was wonedering i want to flush i am in az so what thermastate
192 .180,or 160 degree should i use and should i put in before flush thanks

Joe Nay says:

One more question…how long do you run the engine with the VC-9 poured in?


meldon100 says:

i have a 97 taurus and im running into the same thing. weird thing is while
im running water into the overflow container and i have the radiator plug
open at the bottom, there is no water coming out of the radiator. so that
tells me theres no coolant/water going to the radiator at this point. would
it be my upper radiator hose that needs to be replaced or what?

dgallag339 says:

I have a 2005 Taurus and had a thick orangish substance in the coolant
reservoir most said it was a head gasket I had a mechanic pressure test and
it held fine now no heat so I assume some of that crud migrated into the
core.

Joe Nay says:

Im going to service my cooling system on my 02 Sable 3.0 vulcan. Most
likely replace the heater core. Is there any chance the VC9 could cause
damage during my flush…eat away something? My coolant isnt exactly rusty.
Also, and recc on Zerex G 05 for coolant or do you swear by the VC 7B? Love
ur vids btw… !

Jerry Norflet says:

Thanks for taking the time to shot and post this video, its and enormous
help. Thanks again,
Jerry

Bill Thomas says:

So does your shop have some sort of drain system that collects all the old
coolant and cleaning chemicals?

Dave Brown says:

I had an issue removing the overflow reservoir with the rear 10mm bolt not
coming out. I removed the passenger wheel and the wheel well shroud and
found the bottom of the bolt spinning freely when I tried to unscrew the
bolt. I tried holding it with pliers but eventually just heated it up and
punched it out. No more bolt back there, but it’s a plastic bottle and is
attached two other places, it’s not going anywhere.

DMACKD mcdavid says:

Great video. Thanks for posting. 

Tanner Bennett says:

Does this video show “back-flushing” the heater core?

hddm3 says:

damn real through, thanks!

gerbs304 says:

I got a prestone backflush kit which is a plastic “tee” fitting that comes
with hose clamps and a cap. You cut the 5/8″ or 3/4″ rubber hose which runs
between the top of the water pump and the heater core and install the tee
with clamps. there is a garden hose attachment so you can attach the garden
hose to your heater hose. Open and remove the overflow canister cap, turn
on the hose, start the engine. The rusty water/sediment will be flushed
from the core and out through the overflow canister top. I also use the
chemical flush once I’ve flushed with water, then rinse system one more
time w/ clean water. Once a year keeps my heat going… Good luck!

gearhed1971 says:

did you get heat back after this proceedure?

Kevin Rogers says:

i’ve done this on a few 6.0l’s the block plugs do make life easyer:P
passengers side is a bitch with the starter in the way but you can get
around it with the right socket^^

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