How To Replace Worn Ball Joints Ford F250 Truck

How To Replace Worn Ball Joints Ford F250 Truck

This video will give you step by step instructions on how to replace your worn upper and lower ball joints on a Ford F 250 F350 F450 F550 Truck.

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sschapasc says:

From a mechanic, good job. You are missing a little info like torque specs and the need for torque wrenches during assembly. It is very easy to over tighten or under tighten those nuts causing failure. Just an addendum not criticizing at all. If in doubt, read the book, or by an AllData subscription. Extremely informative information can be had through AllData. Once again, Great job!

reddog9401 says:

awesome dude,i said the same thing some years ago,went out and bought a lot of tools.do my own work.great job

bigrob357 says:

Thanks for the great video! Just found out I have to replace the ball joint in 02 Excursion. This was exactly the kind of video I was looking for! Its very much appreciated!

turbodiesel101 says:

I pull my truck an play in the mud pretty hard i would go with moog they have held up better than stock replacement on every thing i have broke over the years

TallStarlite says:

Nice job, you’ve obviously done a little wrenching before. Good job none the less, Trust me, you just helped more people then you will ever know. So I’ll Thank you for them. Thanks bro. I’m in a big city & working on getting out as-well.

carlos mendoza says:

like atitudddddddddd………

King Sullivan says:

What brand of ball joint did you end up with? How have they lasted you since the install? I have searched for US made joints but find less than clear info on who’s ball joints are actually made in USA. MOOG??
Great video by the way. It will help me get ready for this project on my 88 F250.

Jan Mizeski says:

Freaking Ford.  It’s the only new vehicle I have ever bought and worked well. The wrong junk always go wrong. Nice Video.

Jan Mizeski says:

Leave it up to Ford it’s upto the tie rod went in my T-Bird I replace both of mine twice. I spent 100 dollars in tool’s. The dam thing went in the worst place I’m glad I had hydralic jacks going on. So I love to hate you Ford. Always will. My Great Uncle in the parts store said on the second fix they had a newly designed part. Sorry you loose. This time.

fonesplicr says:

Best video I’ve found for the 99+ Ford. This video helped me tremendously.
Thank you!

URa FuqFace says:

What brand ball joints did you purchase? Thanks

hiline4800 says:

Great video and great message at the end.

Michael Smith says:

97 f250 / f350 will have a reverse arch, ie. higher in the middle.

Pauli Yrjövuori says:

Thank you very much for this video, was very helpful.
I used only pipe sleeves to do the pressing, could not find suitable c-press or similar.
I prsssed them in a vise.
Sleeve sizes I used:
D=inner diameter
L=length
D:56,5mm L:100mm
D:44-50mm L:90mm
D:50-54mm L:75mm
D:50-54mm L:15mm

bob clark says:

great help thanks

William Jefferson says:

Great video and great advice for novice technicians.

Calvin Luethe says:

Great help thanks alot

Walt H says:

Best instructional video out there.

Vick Lima says:

Great video!!!!

Pikesnogle says:

Great Vid man, thanks. 

Geo Ram says:

Thank you man for showing how to do it..

bearphishing says:

Thank you for all the great videos. I was curious if you, or anyone else knows what the leaf springs should look like. I came back to reference this video and can kind of see the shape of yours. I have a 97 f250 powerstroke. Should they be more of a convexed or concaved shape?

Alex Webb says:

I love your thinking. Why would you pay someone to do something you are perfectly capable of doing it yourself. Get it diagnosed then rock on!

383yj says:

I also wanted to add, don’t be afraid to use an impact on the press tool, especially if you rented it.

383yj says:

Fantastic vid and great info. The only thing I do different is I do not remove the ABS sensor because it is too easy to break. Follow the wire over to the whel well and there is a connector. Then you can just remove the wire with the hub. Other than that it was a good instructional vid for anyone who wants to tackle this. Oh BTW, around here-this job books at around $2000, so it is a significant cost saving.

makinbac0n says:

Nice Video. You provide a nice amount of information without babbling. Many instructional videos either don’t have enough info or talk so much that the viewer loses interest. I like your style.

Mike Barbieri says:

Nice procedure. I’m actually tackling this project this weekend. Thanks for the informative video.

phillr3 says:

U are correct. Things are to expensive,
I appreciate your effort to help all F250 owners.

Great job.

gt1900b says:

oh and, MOOG ball joints FTW…. they also make a great sway bar links on these Super Duty trucks 99-04, parts K80273 and K80274… look for Moog bulletin 29008

gt1900b says:

Great video dude. Tip: For interference fit parts, if you can put the parts in the freezer for several hours before quickly pressing them in, it may be easier. Local auto parts stores rent those presses too. Also, when removing that knuckle, I find it handy to leave the castle nut on the balljoint threads, level it with the top of the threads…. use that surface to hammer on. It doesn’t destroy the threads and you don’t sometimes have to hammer on the knuckle itself. And, PB Blaster is great!

chris olson says:

Wranglerstar, I have to do this with my buddy on his 2002 F-250 this Sunday.
What size what was the length of the sleeve that you had cut? In your vid you did say it was 3in diameter I believe will be watching a few times before the Job.
Thank you

mivideo3000 says:

Best do it yourself encouragement video!!!!

bangnstangs says:

I would like to drink a beer with this guy. Need more people like him in the world.

enteng37ify says:

Very nice

arhno7 says:

Just what i needed to know as i am still learning, not as worried about doing it myself now

MrRexquando says:

Look at the cats face 13:28.

Brig T says:

Great video. i”m right on the same page with doing your own repairs.
i wish you would:ve included a good way to reinstall the big axle shaft seal. I just use a copper drift tool working around the seal until its driven in all the way. What do you use?

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