Easy DIY guide: Renew the main upper engine mounts for a Ford Duratec. Featured is a Mondeo Mk3; the parts and process are similar for all Duratec installs such as in a Focus, same for Mazda MZRs, and indeed most engine mounts in any car.
The RH (engine) side mount on the Duratec featured is a hydraulic dampening mount, which fail when the rubber perishes and cracks or is damaged allowing the fluid the drain out. In this case my vibration problem was a product of this mount failing (lifetime approx. 12 years and 120,000 km).
See also this video on replacing the lower transmission mount (torque restrictor): https://youtu.be/H2P74cIvlmg
Required:
* 10 mm socket with 1/4″ or 3/8″ ratchet handle (coolant expansion tank)
* 1/2″ breaker bar, decent length extension bar, and deep socket sizes 15 mm, 18 mm, and 21 mm
* 1/2″ Torque wrench (ideally). Nb. I torque the bolts by estimating force applied to a known breaker bar length.
* New engine mounts to suit engine and fitting. You would ideally replace in pairs even though only one typically fails at a time.
Nb. the examples featured may be of identical design geometry for your case, but can vary (particularly the LH side) in rubber compound for engine weight/power. Ford use a color label to identify rubber compounds (you can see the LH mount is marked brown), while the alloy castings of the mount bodies themselves do not differ – so take care to ensure your replacement mount matches the old one.
* Flat bladed screwdriver to remove air intake hose clamp, and long nose pliers to redo.
Generally:
* Medium strength threadlocker (e.g. Loctite 243 [blue])
* Marker pen
* Thread-locker to reinstall bolts
* Maybe: hot air gun & penetrating oil
* Optional: anti-seize (*not* for use on engine mount bolt/nut threads)
* Scissor jack and block of wood, or other reliable engine lifting method
* Jack and axle stands, or other suitable and safe way to lift car.
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Well done. A question: you put the wooden block on the oil pan?
I have some remarks. Like you said – nuts with blue plastic nylocs are self locking, are NOT reusable and must be renewed once loosened. Also it is not allowed to put any liquid or paste between nut and part because you change the calculated friction based on the nut torque. Those nuts do not use a washer for a reason because their bottom surface must have a certain amount to provide the frictional connection and grip.
Could you explain how to put the V6 mk2 2.5 engine back in the car? Is without the box.
Thanks for posting. I found this very helpful in accomplishing my task with great results!
lower one doesnt make vibrations it affects on and off throtle shaking you feel in the back of the seat, vibrations come from the uper ones.
Would anyone have a suggestion of how to prevent the engine from shifting when the trans mount is removed? Like what happens at 18:30?
Another excellent video…Great job!
I learned a a lot from this very informative video. And here is a question for you:
13:50, don't you it's still got too much vibration here?
Very informative once again!, thank you very much for your time.
Another Excellent how to video. Thanks!