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How to Install Distributor Video-Engine Building Repair DVD
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For Chevy V8 engines the distributor rotor tip will end up at 5 o’clock
position, from the front of the motor. Just set the distributor in place
making sure both gears catch, if it doesn’t go down all the way then rotate
the engine by hand until it drops in place, be sure the plugs are out so
you won’t be fighting engine compression. This video explains it the hard
way, you don’t need to jack with the oil pump shaft.
Great video. I have rented the DVD from you before. I need to see it again.
You have to use the same techniques in the video here, but find some type
of socket that will have access to your engine while it’s still in the car.
The rest of the DVD has all types of tips and methods for working on an
engine installed in a vehicle.
Hello BoxWrench. I was wondering, what brand is that needle-style torque
wrench you use in your videos? I need to buy one but don’t know which one
is good quality. thanks a lot.
Lubrication of the distrib gear is covered in our camshaft install section.
We applied moly lube to the cam distributor gear as the lube was also
needed for the cam lobes and will transfer to the distributor gear during
the lash setting prior to start-up.
good
wow distributors make perfect sense now.
What you say is true but only if the engine and it’s static timing has been
previously set before. Only then can the reference of the timing marks be
trusted with reference to the rotor under the distributor cap. When a
distributor has been removed and replaced, the rotor is located in a new
completely arbitrary position with reference to the timing marks on the
crank. Only by firing up and resetting static timing can you re-establish
the relationship to the balancer’s timing marks.
@TheDwortham You switched from a computer controll fuel injection system to
a carb, first off why EFI is alot more potential with a aftermarket ECU. As
for the distributor, first question is did the distributor belong to the
bronco or the mustange. If it was from the bronco then it wont function
correctly if the Advance is controlled by the ECU. If it was from the
mustang readjust adjust the advance curve to the engine specs and tweek it
from there.
It’s not quite as easy as you might think in theory. When you actually try
to install a distributor you’ll find out that the oil pump drive rod will
wobble and spin just a bit all by itself during the removal and install
causing difficulty during re-install. Also, when you’re building an engine
from the ground up, you don’t have a reference point of an “old” distrib
position because it’s a new build-up. The procedures in this vid will help
get any distributor installed, old or new.
Yes you need to change the distributor when changing a motor from efi to
carbureted
There are distribitors you do not use a timing on and a scan tool is use to
set them.Vortec 350s and 4.3s are this way,scan tool only
I believe my distributor is in the right spot but when I pulled the cap off
the rotor was pointing towards the #5 spark plug. I haven’t taken out the
distributor since I’ve purchased the cj7 jeep. And it appears to run well..
Is it harmful on the engine if left? Or would it run poorly if it was in
the wrong spots? I have the 258 I6 4.2l in my 1976 cj7 jeep. Thanks for the
informative video. 🙂
GREAT vids really helped instaling a chevy 350 in a k1500 BUT i have a
SERIUS (bad spelling) QUESTION i own a 77 full time 4×4 chevy truck with a
350 (edelbrock EPS intake Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb Some kinda
aftermartet cam.) My question IS to rebuild, Bore .040 get the crank worked
on the rods worked on and (of corse) New pistonswith the kit like 2-$300
how mutch total would it run…YEAH i know each machine shop is
diferent(OHH im building it BTW not them)oh and head work valvle seals
Thanks very much for making this video super easy to follow along with easy
to understand descriptions, instructions as well as showing how the parts
engage and fit together! I have a feeling I’m going to be spending a lot of
time on this channel… lol
This guy talks weird.
On a rare occasion, that method can work for some engine types, but for the
majority of engine types, it’s not a good idea. Also has a high risk of
chipping off a tooth or two from the camshaft drive gear or the distributor
gear itself. That risk alone is well worth avoiding the crank over method.
Also, when cranking the engine you are no longer going to be at the TDC
point for #1 cylinder. The method described in this video will keep your
crankshaft parked at TDC #1 for the distrib wiring
you can also turn the motor slightly to seat the distribtor then put the
motor back to top dead center
suck s ass.american s engines..
@alexmpowere30bmw what?
tanks
@ChukyG863 your a douche…
@TheDwortham First thing to check is the timing. What method did you use to
install the distributor and set the initial timing…?
hey i wondering if you can let me know when a engine cranks over slow does
it mean that its stuck …………….. i have a new battery and new parts
on it and still wont start do i have to move the Distributor cap around to
get a better crank or faster crank on it
@BoxWrench i changed the distributor to the old style like a 75 ford 351w
im trying to hook up the ignition box the lil aluminum box that powered the
coil but i cant get good spark idk if its hooked up right is there a
diagram somewhere or do u know how to do it
what condition is your seal in?
You wouldn’t install a distributor from one engine make into another… You
can however use this video to help you learn how to install any distributor
type into it’s matched engine type. You would need to set any piston engine
to the Top Dead Center position for the #1 cylinder, adjust the crankshaft
to the recommended initial timing advance setting and then install the
distributor. When you know the distributor rotation and firing order of the
engine as well, you can finish the plug wiring
one of the best vids around man. thanx!
damaging pre-detonation is a symptom of too much advance on the spark
event. By using a 6-12 BTDC distributor setting technique you run a higher
risk of advancing the spark event toward a potential pre-detonation. Using
a “0” TDC setting to begin with will keep more people on the conservative
side and away from damaging pre-detonation. We are a company, and this is
why we give this advice to the masses. It is conservative, but will save a
few rare cases from damaging their engine.
Your videos are fantastic.
It would be a shame if you did not make much more income when these normal
people are able to earn much more money easily using Certor Cash Code
(check it out on Google).
This “moving the oil pump drive” is nonsense. Just drop the dist in close
as you can get, bump the starter until it falls in, then come around and
recheck the timing marks and distributor position. Most of the time you can
anticipate where it will “change.” If not, EASY, just rotate the dist one
gear tooth which way you need, bump again to drop it in, and you’re done
The reason for the TDC method is, we are referring to all types of
distributors generally. There are so many distributor designs that have
different widths of rotor blades and firing techniques that it’s not always
a guarantee that hand rotating the crank to about 12 degrees will actually
translate into a 12 degree reading once the engine starts up. The best
method for recommending to all engine builders is to use the TDC method and
then advance the distributor until you get the engine to fire
RAN OUT OF ROOM…lol….AND another thing im curently building a 430HP 355
SBC 1500-6500RPM screaming machine and i know how mutch a motor like that
cost (going into a 2wd c10) anyway i wanted a nice rebuilt motor like the
on in the vidio all painted up new cam cleaned up valve seal work so it
dosnt burn all its oil when first start…OH yeah gets warm and burns oil
and has about 15 PSI oil…IT was a MUD TRUCK but im a better owner and
dont rod the piss outa old things that are tired lol
Make your own tool you have the info rite.. did it on a ford 98 eddie bauer
I think it had a 4.0 sohc if I remember right had to replace timing chains
guides n gears. Special tools cost bout 200 bones made them tools with
about ten bucks of metal a little welding and some know how (not all me)
obiously I had a more experienced person working with me but that’s beside
the point that particular motor is an interference motor so you hafta lock
the cams n don’t move the crank or your effed.
that will be fun in the engine bay…
#1 Top Dead Centre at the end of the compression stroke. If it was at TDC
after the exhaust stroke, then you would have to move all the spark plug
leads around 180 degrees.
i have a 350 engine that was just built for me im fairly new to the engine
building thing i am trying to put on the distributor how do i go by priming
the oil pump once i put on the distributor and is there a certain way the
distributor post should be turned im not sure what its called but the piece
stickn out from the distributor should it be on the left side or right side
this is ohv or overheadvalve right.how about ohc engines.are they different?