http://www.wellsve.com/ This video demonstrates a Ford fender mounted solenoid function, testing and replacement. The information presented in this program i…
Ford Starter Solenoid Troubleshooting, Replacement and Function
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Ford, Function, Replacement, Solenoid, starter, Troubleshooting
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The light green / yellow wire fron the relay is grounded at the computer to
activate the starter on the 3.9 engine. Not sure what engine you have. What
might work best is if you click on the link in the description and you will
go to our website. There you can leave a question for the tech department
and we can send you the wiring diagram. Or you can call us and we will help
you diagnose it. 1-800-558-9770 Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
I Have a 2005 Ford Freestar. Im having starter problems. I believe the
ground wire is not connected right. can you explain what colors the ground
wire should be?
Thank you for the kind words. If you need assistance, please let us know,
Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
the results from this test, let me know and I will help you with the next
step if needed. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words, they do mean a lot to us. You are on the
right track, it could be the nuetral switch, but it could also be many
other components. We the engine does not start, the first step is to turn
the headlamps “on”. They should be bright. If they are out or dim it
usually means a poor connection on the battery. If they are bright, leave
them “on” and try to start the engine. If they go out or dim, it means a
poor connection on the battery or a weak battery. Once you have
Thank you for such a great informative video! You confirmed that my dad and
I are on the right path for fixing my van.
Great Video, now I know what a solenoid does. Got a issue that’s been hard
to diagnose because it’s only happened about 6 times in the past year. When
I turn the key I get nothing about 5-10 times or so in a row. Then, the
truck will all of a sudden crank when I turn the key. I tried shifting in
and out of park, pushing in more on the switch but usually when it cranks,
it’s when I do nothing more the turn the key as I did with my first attempt.
I hope this information helps. Please keep us informed with the results. If
you need further assistance let me know, Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle
Electronics
I am going to assume the starter clicks once when you try to start. Try
turning the headlights “on” and have someone watch them if you can not see
the reflection. Then try to start it, if the headlights go “out” it means
either the battery is low or you have a bad connection on the battery,
starter or solenoid. If the lights stay lite either the starter is
defective or the engine is frozen. In this case, put a wrench on the bolt
for the harmonic balancer and try to turn the engine by hand.
that is draining the battery. Check a wiring diagram for the components in
the circuit and with the fuse reconnected disconnect the components one at
a time. When you disconnect the draining component the amperage will again
drop. If it is not a component then the wiring is shorted to ground. You
will have to do a close visual inspection to find it. Hope this helps, let
me know if you need a wiring diagram or any other further assistance. Mark
Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words. Parasitic draw … disconnect the positive
post of the battery and connect a jumper wire and amp meter to the post and
the cable end. Leave them hooked together for about 20 minutes this will
drain the capacitors in the computer. Then disconnect the jumper wire and
read the amperage, this is the true amount of the parastic draw. If you are
reading more than 50 milli amps it is too much. Disconnect fuses until the
amperage draw drops. This will indicate the circuit
LOL I love it! Thanks Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
when did John Goodman start doing voice-overs for Wells? LOL…just
kidding.
It was my pleasure. Thank you for the update and the kind words. Take Care,
Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you so much for your help it worked it starts like it should thanks
for your help you clearly know what your doing when it comes to these kinda
things
switch leaving yourself about 6 inches of wire to solder the new wire to
it. Good Luck Stay in touch, Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
It sounds like you have found the problem. The wire going through the
firewall is probably rubbed through. First run a long jumper wire with a
couple of allegator clips one on each end from the ignition switch to the
“S” terminal and try to crank the engine. This will confirm you have a
broken wire. Then you have two choices. Either repair the broken wire or
cut it out of the circuit and run a new wire from the switch to the
solenoid. I prefer running a new wire. Just cut the wire by the
Ok so I have traced the to the ignition switch and at the switch its
battiery voltage but where it comes thro the fire wall on the passengers
side it’s .25 volts
With the key in the start position, you should have battery voltage on the
red/ light blue wire to the “s” terminal of the solenoid. The wiring
diagram shows the same wire goes straight to the ignition switch. Check for
power on the same wire at the ignition switch with the key in the start
position. If you have no power there, check the two yellow wires coming
into the switch. If they are not hot chances are you have blown a fuseble
link. If they are hot, chances are the ignition switch is
defective. Stay in touch, if you need any further assistance let me know.
Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Only 0.25 volts to the s wire while cranking with clutch depressed and
brake gear shifter in neutral
Check to see if you have power to the “S” terminal when the key is turned
to the start position. If you do have power check the ground on the
solenoid. It depends which solenoid you have, but it might ground through
the mount. Stay in touch, Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
I just bought a 1986 ford f250 with a 6.9l diesel it’s started fine at the
location where I got it(after jump starting it) drove it home parked it and
the next day I went to go start it to fix a few other things and nothing I
jumped the s terminal and it cranked what do u think would cause this?
It sounds like you had a bad connection on the battery. Remember in the
video we explain, when you hear the series of clicks either the battery is
dead or you have a bad connection. Hope this helps, please let us know if
you have any other concerns, Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Hoping that this video is still being visited WOW if we could discuss this:
My 1982 ford wagon wound up in storage for two years untouched outside
mainly sickness in the family, I at last had the time to bring it home VERY
happy to have old perfect back. troubles began weeks later. seafoam
detergent seemed to get it going again (to be continued)
CONTINUED the seafoam expired I added more but then to make matters worse
the battery took to going dead. I’d get that “chatter” from the solenoid.
MONTHS later I recentally installed a NEW solenoid ….took days but at
last seemingly NO more dead battery I touch the ignition position with the
key “vroooooooom” seemingly every time now…BUT WHAT COULD HAVE
HAPPENED??? And why did the new solenoid at 1st not work???
What a nice compliment! We produce videos for technicians and for people
like you who do not work on cars everyday. Knowing you were able to
understand and diagnose the problem from the information on our video means
a lot to us. Thank you! Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words, they mean a lot to us! As far as the starter
noise video, we do not manufacture starters that one is not on the to do
list, sorry. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you SO much for your Solenoid video. It was very helpful in fixing my
’87 Ford F-150. Next: your starter noises video. I’m so glad I found your
channel!
Great Thanks for the update! Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Thank you for the kind words and for confirming what we are trying to
accomplise. Every diagnosis has its own set of charateristics. It is our
feeling that if you know how the system functions you will be able to
perform your own diagnosis accuratly. Take care, Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle
Electronics
Thanks for the excellent video. Although I ran out and got one, the video
saved me from installing a new relay/solenoid when really the battery was
just flat!
@67FordRanchWagon also the cables get eccesivly hot while trying to start
My buddy and I are having problems with his 2001 ford f250. we start the
thing and it doesn’t even make a noise. it was working a second ago but it
suddenly just stopped after we had breakfast. We are almost sure it is the
starter but I think it’s the cable between the fuse box and the starter,
any ideas?
A solenoid is just a connection from the battery to the starter. Use a
jumper cable and connect one end to the starter and tap the other end to
battery possitive. When you do this the starter should crank. When the
solenoid clicks it means it is working 99.9% of the time. When you jump
this make sure the transmission is in park or nuetral!!! Mark Hicks Wells
Vehicle Electronics
@blueskymut Yes it is the wrong application. Starter relays are meant to
carry a heavy load for a short period of time and then have at least a 30
minute cool down time. On our website under the tech / testing specs and
diagrams, there is a listing of all the solenoids in our line. I would
suggest an intermittent or continuous duty solenoid. If you know the
amperage draw, give us a call and we can suggest a few regular relays that
may work. 1-800-558-9770 Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
IF you get one click and the starter does not engage, it means either the
battery is low, a bad connection to the battery, bad battery cable, bad
connection on the starter or a bad starter. When it does not start, turn on
the headlights, when they are on try to start it. If they go out at that
time, check your cables and battery. If they stay bright, check the
connection on the starter and starter. If the connection looks good, try
tapping on the starter with a small hammer while the key is
It sounds like you now have a bad connection on the battery. Turn the
lights on and wiggle the connections to the battery. When the lights turn
on you have found the terminal with the bad connection. First test the
battery to make sure you have 12 volts. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle
Electronics
Thank you so much for this valuable video! Today I replaced my starter
solenoid, YEAH, with watching the video & reviewing the instructions that
came with the part! I’m a mom trying to make it and never thought I could
fix my car. It was simplier than I feared. I gained some confidence and
save some money. I think I’ll do the chicken dance. 🙂
Wells VE , Hello,I am having the same problem with my 2001 Ford
Expedition,I’ve changed the Solenoid,starter and starter switch,problems
are lights on dashboard,odometer lines – – – – – – – on when I get all
those car is just cranking but won’t start,when lights go out from
dashboard and car starts and then starter gives a big crank,I checked the
“S” terminal and I’m getting voltage back,I left everything disconnected
because lights stayed on an dashboard…..thanks for your help
@ThomasTechCon Either you have a bad connection, bad battery, or using the
wrong gauge wire. The relay clicks because there is not enough current to
hold it engaged. It is possible, because the cables are getting too hot the
starter is drawing too much current also. Please feel free to give us a
free call at 1-800-558-9770 press 3 for the tech department. We are more
than happy to help. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
i have a 71 ford mustang. I replaced the solenoid earlier, but then
replaced the starter. it worked great for awhile now it wont start. all i
hear his clicking from the solenoid. i have new battery in. is there away
to bypass the solenoid completly and start the car to test the starter?
1996 f 350 7.3 diesel. clicks when turning over. noticed i have two
solenoids/replay on the pass side fender, only one clicks. changed out the
one that doesn’t click with new one. still nothing. hit starter with
hammer, still not starting.any idea?
Great video. I’ve got a problem with exactly this solenoid on my ’87 XR4Ti.
Trouble is I can’t really get them in Europe(Romania), so I replaced it
with a similar solenoid, but not original. I only wonder why does Ford US
use this design and not the simpler solenoid-on-starter design that Ford of
Europe and pretty much everybody else uses? How is this any better? Good
day to you!
This is a great question! To be honest I am not sure. All I can think of is
it might have something to do with the length of the cable. By putting a
solenoid in the middle you end up with two shorter cables and not a very
long cable. By doing this I would think your voltage drop would be
lessened. If you have any ideas or thoughts I would love to hear them. Mark
Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
need one for a 1987 ford ranger it has different wiring and lots of it also
need the color code on all. some help
@67FordRanchWagon The color of the coating on the cable should not matter,
as long as the gauge is correct. The small wire, does it have voltage when
you turn the key to the start position? Is it connected to the “S”
terminal? If you try jumping from the battery positive to the “S” terminal
of the solenoid, what happens? Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics