Ford Mustang V8 Clutch Replacement part 1 of 4

Ford Mustang V8 Clutch Replacement part 1 of 4

This video shows how to replace a clutch and it’s components. This is a VERY dangerous task. This video is for demonstrational purposes only. Make sure the c…

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TheMustangStampede says:

How about a rubber mallet for them drive shaft bolts?

John Jensen says:

Thanks. I don’t have an impact gun but my dad has a breaker bar. I just
have to wait for him to come bring it to me cuz I only have my mustang lol
I truly appreciate your help and videos. You’ve helped me greatly!!!

John Jensen says:

Trying to follow your video and it’s been a great help on my mustang but
I’m having the worst time trying to get the exhaust undone from the motor.
I bought the tools and liquid wrench but the bolts still won’t come off.
Any suggestions?

Kyle Rash says:

Dude it’s hard because you have a foot long extension haha. 

Tony Pummill says:

Don’t you just love neighborhood kids! LOL! I love it just like my hood.
Yes I just love neighborhood kids. NOT! Ha hahahaha. Made me laugh a lot
thanks.

Stopsign32v says:

Nice nice nice! Way to help other people man. :cheers:

JAM9307 says:

Wicked Tutorial. Used this for a 2000 3.8 only real difference was less
bolts on the tranny. Helped a lot, thanks.

Scrun Johnson says:

As far as bringing the other parts over from the other car, I would say
look at the clutch disc and see of it had a lot of meat on it- kind of like
your tires. If its worn down flat I would replace it. Just remember that
the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate all wear a certain pattern
and should not be interchanged with other parts unless the flywheel is
taken to a machine shop and re-surfaced.

Doug Scott says:

A friend of mine has a 2005 mustang and the old clutch was slipping. He
bought a new throwout bearing, and clutch kit with the flywheel, clutch
disc, and pressure plate. Now after the third time installing the new one
and putting it back together, it will go into gear when the engine is off
but with engine on, it will grind bad and will not go into any gear.. Bled
the crap out of it several times and still the same.. Any insight would be
appreciated.. Dougscott1181@gmail.com ……. Thank You

Aiman Mohd-Zamri says:

Could I do this on an s197 v6 mustang?

Nick C. says:

I’m gonna be doing this soon on a ’95 302. It has no Cats, but I have a few
questions. Should I replace O2 while I’m down there? The transmission that
is coming out of the other car will be going in mine, and they match. My
clutch and other accessories seem to be in good shape just by driving the
car, but should I get the parts out of the other one? (it has like 80k
miles on it, was in pretty good shape)

Scrun Johnson says:

It should be about the same process except you have a hydrolic clutch.
There are a few other steps needed like crimping off the line and priming
it when you are done.

Scrun Johnson says:

Yes. It’s the same procedure, just a lighter transmission and smaller
clutch, but it looks the same. Just might want to double check the torque
specs,.

Elias Ortiz says:

Great video never done this before have a3.8l and followed you’re steps in
all four went great awesome job showing people how to do these things

HatchLife21 says:

House full of mustangs! Nice Cobra!

Scrun Johnson says:

Yeah, sorry. I mentioned it on my gear install video. I must have forgotten
on this one! Thanks for mentioning it.

Hmbre97 says:

One important step that was missed was marking the driveshaft position in
relation to the differential before removing it.

James Price says:

Hey scrun, what kind of clutch kit do I need to buy for a 2001 Ford mustang
v6? Something under $300.00

Jurat Erfan says:

Great video i remember it was pain in the ass doing it myself, even though
it was on a lift. but this tranny clunk badly when i left off the gas, it
might be the engine mount or just the extra play on the tranny, u have any
idea of the clunk? thanks

Luis Ruvalcaba says:

does your clutch fork have play in it? does it return to a certain position
once you let go of it?

Scrun Johnson says:

Yeah, check the cross mount on the tail end of the transmission. It might
look ok but the rubber mount can get soft. On this car the mount just fell
off!

Scrun Johnson says:

If you want a factory replacement, I’d do Exedy. For performance I would
say Centerforce since its all I have experience with. Whatever you do, get
the best throw out bearing possible

Scrun Johnson says:

Glad I could help. I always look for these vids when I attempt something
new. I have also done this on a 3.8. A lot nicer with the lighter
transmission!

Scrun Johnson says:

In fact, I just did this on a 3.8 V6 recently

MechE says:

Loved the videos. Just two suggestions. 1) Please mentione that hte
passengers side requires a crush gasket flange. 2) I removed the electrical
bracket. I may have shorted out a wire. If the engine light comes on …
look for FUSE #8 (on SVT performance, search for “Installed new X pipe, now
im throwing codes… can ya help me out?”) as those are the codes I am
showing. Still trying to track down the short … 7 fuses later 🙁

Fred Bond says:

Would this work for a 1997 V6 mustang (3.8)

Scrun Johnson says:

Thanks. Share it 🙂

Krashdavus says:

Thumbs up to this kid. He did it old school: hand tools (no air tools) only
– all muscle, cramped space on jacks, and a full commentary while working
in less than stellar conditions. The only thing missing was snow and ice.

frozenhiphop09 says:

Subscribed. ^_^

Scrun Johnson says:

On a stock set up it should feel pretty tight. The self ratcheting system
puts it up against the diaphragm fingers and some say it spins the throw
out bearing the whole time. I have an after market clutch quadrant and
firewall adjuster that allows me to move it up to the diaphragm fingers
then back it off

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