Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosis No Tools Required

Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosis No Tools Required

You can get the new solenoid version Here-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SR7JVO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004SR7JVO&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=LJ57SWZU2YO6277Q
This is the new Integrated Wheel Ends needed for the Repair (replace both)-
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042ORWNI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0042ORWNI&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=KEBGPZWPYKLGSCTJ
In this video I show you how to diagnose the most problem prone part of the Ford IWE system, the vacuum system. No special tools required.

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Starman80s says:

So I replaced my locking hub because It was grinding and my 4wd stopped working, replaced the solenoid and 4wd worked fine. But now it hangs up when the 4wd is turned off, it won’t fully disingage

Charles W says:

How much vac should i have at idle my 2010 is throwing a check brake system light for low vac pressure

halleffect1 says:

i had a problem where the axle still turned in 2WD but the vacuum and actuator was fine. problem was the little axle nut was over-tightened. it requires a fairly low torque value. not sure if this is a common problem or just a quirk with my truck but it's something else to check

Kayo Adkisson says:

So if there's still vacuum on the silinoid in 4×4 then thats the problem

Adam Repetowski says:

If I’m not getting vacuum to my IWE, is it possibly the solenoid?

JackSquat54 says:

A component he did not address is the vacuum servo near the middle of the front axle that engages the front drive shaft to the front pinion gear.

Wiggy Lab says:

Is the default on 4×4 wheels locked or in other words if there is no vacuum the wheels are locked if there is vacuum to it they are unlocked which is it

Steve Gosnell says:

I have vacuum at the switch but not at the wheel and cv does not spin and truck is running with front end off the ground and truck is in two wheel drive what next?

Albert Astala says:

Finally got around to using the no tool technique you show us here to diagnose a bad solenoid. Excellent tip. Thanks.

$35 at Advance and 20 minutes to install. Nearly all of that time is wrenching 1/16 of a turn at a time due to the lack of space to turn a wrench. That time could be relieved using a socket with a universal and an extension.

Nearly immediately after getting 4 high back, I strapped 3 kids in the truck and headed for the woods!

Wes Cragg says:

Lovely. I shall try these tricks tomorrow. It's snowed hard today…bad time to find out my 4×4 doesn't work. I'll update you tomorrow. *it's tomorrow- I had vacuum from the solenoid both in 2WHDR and 4WHDR and no lights on the instrument panel–m'thinks it's both, a faulty solenoid and a transfer case shift motor*

learn2 farm says:

None of my vacuum lines in this area will disconnect lol.. like at all.. afraid of breaking the plastic mounted to the firewall im pulling so hard.. zero movement…. did someone glue my vacuum connections?

Jim Redline says:

One thing I find confusing about an otherwise great video is the constant phrase of vacuum coming out! I always thought vacuum was kinda like sucking in!!!

Victor Chavira says:

Good day, I have a question sir, I hope and you can help me. I have a 2005 f-150 the 4×4 is activated and deactivated without problems, the detail is that when turning the tires with the 4×4 deactivated, the cv also rotate how serious is this ? first of all, Thanks!!

Cameron Davis says:

This helped a LOT. Thank you

Joe Turpening says:

Also, the reason I asked, was on the passenger side, I had a hose touch the manifold and melt, but there are two total lines not hooked up to anything, and I’m assuming this may be my issue.

Joe Turpening says:

Any chance you could share a diagram or pictures of the vacuum routing? I tried what you said before jumping to the solenoid, and I am not having the same success of the wheels free spinning etc.

Luis Ramos says:

You are the best man

Ford_Dude_863 says:

I don’t have vacuum coming out on the upper port of the solenoid when my f150 is on and is on 2wd. Can my solenoid be bad?

Giovanni Aleman says:

I went through the whole testing process, everything worked, but my 4×4 is still not engaging. Still saying "check 4×4". I was not having any codes, then briefly for a day had p2096. Hope this helps, please advise.

nick del villar says:

I decided to replace the upper and lower ball joints ony 4×4 f150 2006. Prior to that the 4×4 system was working fine. As soon as I replaced the suspension parts i noticed the hub locks were grinding. I replaced both. Then ran the truck and grinding stopped in 2wd, but when I put it on 4wd it gets stuck when I turn, if I go straight it runs but seems like something is preventing it from running smoothly. I even heard a loud clunk once when o turned. maybe i didn't align the CV joint correct? I am getting vacuum at the hub locks.

Zei says:

Aloha Thank you for the amazing videos! I've Learned so much. Got a question for you. Have you ever come across a f150 4wd that one side will disengage but the other will not? I've replace hubs, actuators, vacuum hoses, solenoid and still the driver side will not disengage from 4wd so I'm having to drive with the solenoid caped to let both wheels spin with the transfer case off. otherwise when I drive the passenger side tire vibrates trying to catch up to the driver side. then i put it in 4wd and the vibration goes away, due to both wheels moving at the same rate while the 4wd is on.. I'm stumped… I've gone as far as ordering new cv axles incase perhaps something is happening there.. any thoughts? Mahalo for any help.

Warren Somers says:

Helped me greatly keep the videos coming! Saves alot of money and stress! Thanks

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