It’s time for the PHAD Memorial Weekend Special!!
This 1996 Ford F250 BIG BLOCK V8 is running like garbage after a recent engine rebuild to address a coolant leak at the head gasket. New pistons, rings, and camshaft were installed.
After a cold start, it runs SUPER RICH, floods out the cylinders, and completely LOSES COMPRESSION!! Why?
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Enjoy!
Ivan
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Sounds like timing with his getting oil pump engaged he may have got it reinstalled off one tooth? But that doesn’t have Any OBD port to scan? Hmm
You'd have thought the guy would have put new plugs in as a matter of course on a rebuild. Also, with a fresh rebuild, new low tension rings that haven't seated yet and cylinders awash in gasoline, you're not going to get compression, hence the starter spins.
what no odb1 reader?
those fords had a screwy fuel selector valve system on them…….check for bad fuel
My next step? RUUUUUN. Good thing I can watch you tackle these jobs. 5 mins into the video, I'd say it might just be that the owner mistimed it, time will tell if I was right. Seeing this is a multiple part video, i'm probably wrong
I wonder where they installed the 02 sensor being it has headers and if it is in the correct spot,, I know on old chevys some are right at the manifold, and some are further down near the muffler.. if the 02 sensor is in the wrong location, it may be taking way too long to close loop, and running too long in a rich fuel condition, fouling the plugs.,
Easy… 1:06 he misaligned the distributor "shaft wasn't aligned with the oil pump" messed up the timing bad, bet he put it in off 180 Deg
Something is afoul with the fueling system, me thinks. Looking forward to part 2. Thanks again for another great video, Ivan.
6:00 – Incorrect cam timing?
On to part two.
Initially, it ran better at cold. Once warmed up, it got worse. Were there adoption parameters that should have been erased?
Interesting part one. On to part two
For this vintage engine rebuild you do not put in the distributor and crank the engine. You use a drill with a pump drive attachment to run the oil pump and see if it makes pressure. If you do not position the distributor drive into the pump and mate with the cam the distributor will not seat properly on the block flange.
Before troubleshooting the ignition system after a rebuild you have to verify proper base timing, and usually along with this you do a distributor cap, body and rotor inspection to make sure there are no carbon tracks or bad rotor.
The problem seems to point to weak overall spark energy. Engine runs better when warm and at high rpms. As you go up in RPM the amount of energy needed to ignite the mixture goes down. As the engine gets warm the fuel mixture becomes more homogeneous, making it easier to ignite at idle.
rebuilt a 1986 F150 5.0 . had similar issue . Found after troubleshooting over 22 months I accidentally swapped 2 plug positions on distributor. Ran like this F250 exactly till I put the correct firing order.
bored over no low compression head gasket. I've seen alot not start. two fine hone or not cast rings too.
I wonder if he primed the oil system before starting it, and how long he ran it with no oil pressure.
Check oil pressure before you start the fresh rebuild you just spent money on kids.
is the cam stock
Timing too far retarded ? is it possible when it gets at a higher rpm the timing will advance and somewhat run ?
Truck looks in good condition for its age, well worth repairing.
Injectors are color coded if mototcraft oem in there, the color means alot. They all look the same, along the way incorrect injectors could have found there way inside
Was fuel pressure tested? Recently had a later F150 with a rebuilt 5.4. I always listen to the injectors with a stethoscope and check fuel pressure. Pressure was OK, but would bleed off, key off. Not bleeding off to tank… verified. Long term was maxed on bank one, with a misfire code, on cyl. one. Truck ran horrible! I had pulled the fuel rail and noticed number one injector pissing. Replacing that one injector was the fix. Amazing how one cylinder/injector seriously affected drive-ability. VREF high is also concerning. Also, as others have stated… fuel pressure regulator could have a ruptured diaphragm.
Wouldn't that be an OBDII vehicle? It's a '96…
Things i ran into with a 1992 straight six( different engine)..coffee can looking vacuum reservoir rusted, caused a vac leak. Most of the emmissions needed replacement..iac, egr, smog pump seized, plastic ford vacuum lines suck. I rebuilt one straight six..somehow the dealer sold me the wrong injectors..it ran rough and was slurping gas..check the codes on the injectors..live data,? Ha ha ha! Youre funny..i had no problem dealing with just the blinky codes from the CEL. THE ford fuel injection system is so perfect and simple, once you learn it. Once they give you a code, it really helps pinpoint the bad part