Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel FICM Removal and Diagnosis Instructional Video

Ford 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel FICM Removal and Diagnosis Instructional Video

FICM Instructional Video on how to diagnose and get it out ready for repair.

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DieselTechRon says:

you don’t want it to drop under 45 volts with good supply voltage in on the
F-series trucks. Vans may drop during the pre clatter. As far as taking
money out of our pocket? If I help people they are more likely to buy
another Ford and save our jobs and these engines have a bad reputation that
is not all it’s fault. There are a lot of bad repairs out there. Hopefully
I help others to do it right. The people looking for help need it and most
likely won’t or can’t come to us anyways.

warfareornothing says:

Tech to tech here don’t you realize showing the world this is taking money
out of your pocket 

Rick Gray says:

Hi Ron –

What should I be looking for when the Ficm is cked while running with a
volt meter. While running what should volts be at while running if Bad.
My truck has the same systems as the truck your working on. Look for help
with this. Also can I buy a 1/2 ficm from ford or can I get a aftermarket
ficm?

Thanks.

Brandon Rojas says:

On my truck when I turn it the FiCM reads 48v but once I actually turn the
engine it reads 40v. It increases to 48v very slowly if left on. Is that
good or bad

hddm3 says:

rons cool as hell!

70donnybrooke says:

Let me add that when warm the FICM will show 48 volts no matter what I do.
Running with all accesories on will be 48 volts. Even key on with the
engine off and headlights on will show 48 volts. Do I have a problem?

tgaliger says:

Hi ron. how can i check the voltage with the engine running if it wont
start? or does that mean that the problem is elsewhere than the FICM? ive
seen you ICP video too, and that seems like it could possibly be my problem
too. im just trying to figure out how to do some self diagnosis here. thanks

Lance Cater says:

Thanks Ron, Just getting in on the diesel repair side and learning all i
can. Your videos are clear and on point. Keep them coming. Would love some
driveability videos.

c miller says:

Well I took my truck to the dealership. They told me my ficm, glow plug
relay and my alternator is bad. They said to replace alternator first to
see if it fixes my voltage for my ficm, then go from there.

Dixieblue2980 says:

@Ron, I have a bad FICM that I’m interested in sending you for a rebuild.
Do you offer the 58v upgrade?

brownhouse12 says:

Ron i just bought a 2004 F250 it starts hard cold if i plug it in it starts
a lot better checked the FICM it has 47.5 to 48 volts key on eng off crank
the motor it stays at 47.5 to 48 volts after a few mins of running it run
great was talking to our ford tech he said he never heard of the FICM being
check that way do you have any more ideas please .

Clarissa Saldivar says:

Maybe you can help me. We had the ficm repaired for a 100 bucks and has a
lifetime warranty, we had it working great for about a month and suddenly
we went to the store turned it off got back in and it would crank but
wouldn’t turn over, we had it towed to our house check the ficm with the
multimeter and it was working fine with the proper voltage, any suggestions
on what else it could be, please and thank you, i would take it to a shop
but i just lost my job and money is real tight. Thank yo

jeff1697 says:

Hey- Ron my ficm test 48 on thr meter but i noticed that the altinator
doesn’t seem to be] working would this make any difference. My truck is
running similar to the one on the video

trevor wortman says:

i got a 2003 f350 6 litter diesel replaced the ficm now truck wont start
why is this?

c miller says:

Hey Ron, i have a 2004 f250 6.0L and i’m kinda of having the same problem.
when i accelerate it seems like it’s starving for fuel. It even idles a
little rough. So I tested my ficm when its running and i get like 44 to 45
volts. I know it is suppose to be at 48 volts but I don’t know if it’s bad.
The voltage seems to jump back and fourth. I thought it could be my HPOP,
or fuel pump. If you have any ideas I would really appreciate your input.
Thanks.

DieselTechRon says:

@ctmiller6062 If it drops below 45 the alternator will not fix it. But if
you replace it and the batteries and charging system has a fault, the new
one will not last either.

Razgriz100000 says:

@DieselTechRon My trucks begun missing every now and then, everyone i talk
to says its probably the ficm going. However, with the key on its ate 48v,
cranking 48v, running 48v. However when I hold it at 2000rpm, it drops to
45.3v Do you think that it is an FICM in the early stags of decline?

DieselTechRon says:

Milwaukee the m12 series.

Joshua Daniels says:

hi am josh i live in the Bahamas i have a 2005 f250 diesel 6.0 it runs
great but at times when i park it and go to start it again it has a no
start can you help pleaseeeeee

DieselTechRon says:

@ctmiller6062 Sorry for the late reply. 44-45 is bad but not bad enough to
cause an obvios problem. Is that voltage while driving or idling? If that
is idling then yes it will drop even more when you raise the rpms or work
it and it may be your ficm. Does it clear up when warm? If so maybe you
also have sticking injectors. It’s not the HPOP. it can cause a lack of
power but not misfire. it supplies all of the injectors and they are even
high or low. Your ipr should never hit 85%

sfichter1 says:

I need a FICM for a 2004 f350 king ranch, but I cannot use paypal. Is there
another way we can do it. I have it out already and need on as soon as
possible.

Gustavo Martinez says:

Things good

DieselTechRon says:

@jeff1697 low voltage will kill a ficm, but as long as you are over 45
you’re good. I actually like to see 46 and above. Make sure you check it
when cold and at higher RPMs.

MEGA KITTEN says:

WOW this guy is REALLY SMART!

Borderlands TwoMods says:

i have a 2003 f250 super duty it was running low on fuel i put some diesel
i drove 60 miles then it started shaking a little bit i drove it another 20
miles the it lost power i parked waited for 20 minutes ten turned it on it
was fine i drove i drove 20 miles then it lost power then it started
shaking again lost power and turned off it wouldt turn on NOW WHEN I TRY TO
CRANK IT IT SOUNDS LIKE IT WANTS TO TURN ON BUT IT DOESNT AND WHEN I TURN
IT ON NOW IT TURNS ON SHAKING VERY BAD AN

Steve Danielewicz says:

Hi Ron: Further testing, engine starts then when it is warm continues to
lack power. Voltage is solid at 48V. Wiggle test shows nothing. Removed and
cleaned EGR valve, P2066 error code still on KOER test (cylinder 2
contribution/balance), I am at a loss here. I would hate to purchase a FCIM
only to find that it is not the problem. Can the FCIM still be bad even
though the voltage is solid?

whitetrashgsxr says:

What brand is that ratchet I must have one????!

Kevin Rogers says:

that looks like the wrong coolant

paul hardy says:

I’m wondering too, I’ve never seen a cordless that fast but I think the
video speed changes throughout the video.

70donnybrooke says:

I have a question for you. I recently got an EDGE insight. Let me first say
that I have no starting issues and no driving issues. The last two cold
starts I had an alarm go off on the EDGE. It is telling me low FICM
voltage. I looked and thought I saw 37 volts. It was only quick and then I
started driving and it went up to 45 then in about 15 seconds it was 48
volts. All the way to work I had 48 volts. When I started it at work it
showed 41 volts that as soon as I started driving went up to 48.

cmsracing says:

That was great! I did not even know where the FICM was located! And yes
that is a GREAT way to get out the air filter. Thanks for posting!

jf1325 says:

Good video.Very helpful.Thanks !

Steven Edlund says:

Ron, on this video my ficm volts are 48. engine is rough idle and when i
press on accelarator i have no power engine shakes. then hours later it
runs like no issures then i punch the accelarator when on road and engine
is shaking or vibrating. then issue starts up rough idle and engin shaking.
i use scan gauge 2 no codes & turbo never 15 or 85%.

01fastrace says:

Should, or could the FICM be relocated to an area of less
heat/vibration/temp. changes, etc.? I know on the GM 6.5 L Diesel, the
equivalency of the FICM could be moved with an aftermarket kit.

Sig19 says:

Damn I changed my air filter and it was a bitch.. Now I know!

DieselTechRon says:

Respond to this video… I would need to know the colors but most likely it
is for your trailer brake if you added one. The other end should be around
your data link connector on the inside.

omareguino says:

Hi Ron, I have a ford f250 and the FICM is failing, do you repair those
types of problems? Please let me know, thankyou

SmokerBBQ says:

Ron – Great video and instructions!! Thank you.

Derek Gular says:

Hi Ron after using a Genisys scanning system on my 2006 F350 power stroke
when my check engine light came on, it read codes:
P0261,264,267,270,272,273,276,279,282,611. Which is “Fuel injector circuit
low cylinder 1-8” and “fuel injector control module performance” I’m
leaning towards the FICM as the cause. The truck starts and runs, has about
75% power. How much is one of your replacement FICMs? I get a discount
through work from Ford so i’m trying to get prices, thanks Ron!

tom Hudson says:

great videos the one i like the most is the injector cup sleeve repair got
one off ebay from angelofishes he is one outstanding guy tool works better
that others super fast thanks for all your work. keep them coming. keith

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