http://rvrefrigeration.com/diy-refrigerator-videos/ Americas only licensed RV Refrigeration Training Center educating others around the world comprehensive RV refrigerator repair. Troubleshooting The RV Refrigerator Cooling Unit, By Passing The Controls, FRVTS – https://youtu.be/k2bBSGuwU_o
){kind=link}
thank you so much. very helpful video. let me know if i had a system or electronics problem. mine cooled so i just reset board and its working but it was great to break down system and know which way to go. Thank you
Very helpful video. I have an Atwood unit but I am sure that the same principles apply. I am a little up in the air about trying the bypass test however. On either gas or AC, my refrigerator will reach 32 degrees in the morning and the freezer will be very cold. As the day warms up however, the temp inside the unit also goes up, staying 10-20 degrees below the temp in the trailer. I am guessing that if I do the bypass test I will find that the cooling unit is good because it does get down to the 32 range in the morning. I have run a resistance curve on the thermistor and it seems fine: 6K Ohms at 34 degrees to 2.15K Ohms at 72 degrees. Parts for Atwood are hard to find but I think I have located a control board. Would you assume as I do that the CU is good and that I should try swapping the control board? An RV repair guy that I trust has recommended putting in a fan kit to increase air flow across the coils. Do you think that would solve the problem?
Hi there. I have rm 2652 it works only on propane. I put it on automatic ti work on electric. Turn the propane off. The check light comes on. And won't cool . But whit the propane on works fine.on auto or gas. I was told it's the board
Great video. Is there any danger of overheating the boiler by bypassing the controller?
how many ohms should the element be if good
Very nice watching a pro who knows his stuff. Those who complain are just idiots, I would love to have a tech like you nearby.
….REALLY–REALLY–REALLY GOOD PRESENTATION…..JUST GREAT…..THANKS SO MUCH FOR SHARING THIS VERY DETAILED VIDEO….YOU HAVE HELPED ME LEARN SOME OF THE BASICS AND I TRULY APPRECIATE IT…… ONE QUESTION …… HOW ABOUT CHECKING THE "RESISTENCE" OF THE HEATING-ELEMENT TO SEE IF THE HEATING-ELEMENT IS GOOD….??
HI my 3 way fridge is freezing ok but not the fridge any ideas or videos
my fridge keeps freezing..
Thank you very much for your video! I appreciate your time and expertise.
Wasp Killer Soap & Water ???? Never heard of that… What is the mix ratio ????
I have been looking at a used Class C with the Dometic 2 door refrig. The salesman said it normally takes 4 hrs to cool refrig down when all power and gas has been off for a few days. That just does not sound right. Is he correct with this statement? Thanks for some great videos on repairs, etc.
حيدرالزاملي
http://rvdailyreport.com/industry/ford-training-center-sees-increased-youtube-views/
Thank you for this video and all of the others. The refrigerator is something I knew nothing about. You break it down in a simple no BS way. Thanks.
I was recently told that my cooling unit was bad. This is without the tech looking at it. I bypassed the controls using the cord suggested in your training videos. Verifying with OHMS law that the heating element is still good. I even replaced it with another good element and let it stay for 2 days. My display still shows 60. This is an RM3962 the tech said it does not exist. I checked continuity on all fuses, switches and replaced both circuit boards on the front display of the unit. Still no change. There is no ammonia odor or signs of ammonia leakage. The one step I skipped was removing the red 12v supply when disconnecting power. I'll have to go back and isolate the 12v supply.
I watched your videos they very helpful my rv refrigerator is not cooling at all do you think it could still be the heating unit
thanks for the video…. question my freezer works wonders put my fridge does not so I did not do your test yet because here in MA it's really cold… so how do I check out the heating element so I can do your test???
Thanks for the video. My RV fridge went out and I was scared I was gonna have to shell out $600 for a cooling unit. After trying this I know my cooling unit and heating element are good. So whats left now? The only other things I can think of is the circuit board and the thermistor. Is there a way to check them or do just replace one and see what happens? Also I have checked all the fuses.
I rated up the video for you taking the time to make the video. It would have been helpful if you had the camera zoomed on what you were doing. I found the video hard to follow. I am not experienced at all in this stuff so that could be the reason others did it successfully.
First of all thanks for a great video, this is very simple (now that you've explained it) but invaluable as a tool. I have an NDR-1292, have had the MH about 4 mos, used the refridge 3-4 times both gas and electric, no trouble. It did however take longer to cool than the previous units I've had. Any way my wife turned the unit on with MH unlevel, and it has quit working. Tried gas and AC. I then tried bypassing controls as suggested and unit is not cooling, I did not have an amp meter so I measured Ohms in both elements – both were 66, because both the same I assume (danger zone) they are good. I also calculated watts at 120V (VxV/R) and came up with 218 watts, manual says they are 210 watts at 120v .(If this is not valid please let me know.) So now I think my CU is bad, can it be repaired or must it be replaced. PS: no yellow leak stains anywhere. Thanks again for a great video.
So what if the heating element is slightly out of tolerance, the freezer works well, but the refrigerator is 40+ degrees F. This is the problem I was having, again the freezer portion working well but not the refrigerator portion. I tried the bypass you did with no results either way, the temps stayed the same with the bypass. Eventually the cooling unit sprang a leak the dreaded yellow residue at the bottom of the heating tube so I know my cooling unit is bad. I think this should be broken down into several steps to determine the problem.
1. Visual inspection for the dreaded yellow residue.
2. Check all voltages to make sure you have the proper voltages going into the circuit board along with the proper voltage going out to the heating element.
2. Thoroughly clean the contacts on the circuit board along with cleaning the gas heating orifice and tube (just make sure the gas is turned off bled and then disconnected, the DC voltage is disconnected by removing the fuse or DC disconnect as well as the AC voltage breaker off or unplugged from the outlet)
3. Check the thermostat for proper resistance depending on model.
4. Get the specs for the heating element to determine the proper resistance of the heating element to ensure it is still in working order.
My personal thoughts on my issue is that the heating element was going out and may have caused the eventual leak in the system. I know my circulation was good as there is a fan at the top that ran on hot days. I did not do any preventive maintenance on mine, my fault, however in the future I will be annually cleaning the gas orifice and no more expensive than the ac heating element is just replacing it.
Just my two cents. Hope any of this info I have provided helps.
thanks for still leving me in the dark
my unit heats on gas and ac, but will not cool?
The work you are doing is great. Thank you for your videos.
Thanks for the info.. If I ever break down and buy the correct RV fridge for our Travel Trailer I now feel pretty confident on how to test the cooling unit. Thumbs up..