And once again your videos are awesome!!!!!!!!! The first one I used that I
commented on was the blend door which was great. And now this one. I had
a press at work and step by step it went smooth. I can’t thank you enough
for the great videos. You have saved me a lot of money.
This made it an easy decision; for $150 more than it would cost to do it
myself, I’ll gladly take this one to the shop and let someone else deal
with it! thanks man :)
I hate doing these ,but I’m getting good at those ,but the expeditions are
worse . I feel for you with the rust, I luck out down here in Florida, no
rust unless it’s a northern car
I have had rotors rusted so bad they would not come off. I drill a 5/16″
hole in the rotor where the lower ball joint attaches to the spindle. I
then tap the 5/16″ hole with a 3/8-16 tap all the way through. Screw the
tap out then screw a long 3/8-16 bolt in the hole until it bottoms out on
the spindle where the ball joint is. Turn the bolt in until the rotor comes
loose. Make sure you have plenty of material to push on behind the bolt so
parts are not damaged from pushing on them.
Great informative video, thanks. I’m currently doing all four unit bearings
on my 2004 exploder as well as digging into the rear diff. The diff had the
limited slip clutch pack Ford issues and was grabbing bad. Over time it
actually hammered the ring gear side carrier bearing so bad it has deep
pits in it. So master install kit for that and new clutches as well as the
correct oil. I did press out my old rear unit bearings and they were very
tough to say the least. I like your front unit bearing video as well.
thanks.
BTW, thanks also for listing the torque specs. I have to find the rear diff
specs now.
Been waiting for this one, thanks a bunch. Great instructions!!! Mine
aren’t quite in need of replacing just yet however at 108,000 miles I’m
probably getting close. The Explorer has been in NV it’s entire life so no
rust 🙂 Thank goodness. What’s your thoughts on the 2004 4.0 SOHC engine?
How many miles have you seen then go with the stock timing chain cassettes?
So far everything is original at 108k including the transmission. I take
very good care of it and do all of my own maintenance/repairs because I
have yet to find somebody who has attention to detail such as you and have
been burned in the past. You know what they say, if you want a job well
done then do it yourself.
Great video. Very informative. Too bad you couldn’t show the install. Were
the time constraints a work thing or a YouTube thing? If the latter then
maybe a ‘part 2’?
Whats the blue lube you put on the bearing & hub when you were pressing it
in? I’ve always used anti-sieze or brake caliper grease since they can
handle high temps without liquifying.
I’ve done a few of these and just use the aftermarket kits that come with
the snap ring bearing and hub. Our shop doesn’t have a press so have to
send to machine shop. He does not like the ebrake parts on it. Do those get
in the way at all?
So… I pressed the hub back into the bearing.. But forgot to brace the
inner race and it pushed it out just a bit… So after swearing a bunch I
tapped the inner race back into position and it all seemed okay and spun
good and everything.. Will it be okay? Lol drives just fine. No more
bearing howl, but yeah.. Hope it will be okay..
Very NICE! I bring it to a NAPA machine shop and they do a great job there.
Even some shops use them. I think I paid $60 for both sides, worth it. The
setup is very similar to an IRS 89-97 Tbird/Mark8(identical except for size
once the spindle is off). I know there special Ford tools for the press
cups for that vehicle. In the salt belt those DIY 20Ton presses won’t touch
that. It is also dangerous if you aren’t experienced, not a DIY thing.
There are some FWD hub tamer tools but I don’t think they would do this
job. I usually get a new hub, I guess it is ok though if it is intact.
I have a question. What causes suspensions to squeak? I’ve noticed that on
some Fords. My ’05 Grand Marquis suspension would sometimes make a
squeaking sound when I go over some bumps at low speeds.
And once again your videos are awesome!!!!!!!!! The first one I used that I
commented on was the blend door which was great. And now this one. I had
a press at work and step by step it went smooth. I can’t thank you enough
for the great videos. You have saved me a lot of money.
Best one I have seen
Nice rotor hat trick…have to start using that one
This made it an easy decision; for $150 more than it would cost to do it
myself, I’ll gladly take this one to the shop and let someone else deal
with it! thanks man :)
Good Stuff Man! Great Job! Yeah, I’m looking to take it to the dealership
or just purchase whole new refurb rearend. Keep it up!
I hate doing these ,but I’m getting good at those ,but the expeditions are
worse . I feel for you with the rust, I luck out down here in Florida, no
rust unless it’s a northern car
I have had rotors rusted so bad they would not come off. I drill a 5/16″
hole in the rotor where the lower ball joint attaches to the spindle. I
then tap the 5/16″ hole with a 3/8-16 tap all the way through. Screw the
tap out then screw a long 3/8-16 bolt in the hole until it bottoms out on
the spindle where the ball joint is. Turn the bolt in until the rotor comes
loose. Make sure you have plenty of material to push on behind the bolt so
parts are not damaged from pushing on them.
Thanks for posting! I like to do all repairs and maintenance myself, but I
think I’m taking my 2005 XLT to the Ford dealer.
too bad I can’t thumb up multiple time
Great informative video, thanks. I’m currently doing all four unit bearings
on my 2004 exploder as well as digging into the rear diff. The diff had the
limited slip clutch pack Ford issues and was grabbing bad. Over time it
actually hammered the ring gear side carrier bearing so bad it has deep
pits in it. So master install kit for that and new clutches as well as the
correct oil. I did press out my old rear unit bearings and they were very
tough to say the least. I like your front unit bearing video as well.
thanks.
BTW, thanks also for listing the torque specs. I have to find the rear diff
specs now.
Great video. Those snap rings can be a pain. Keep up the good work man.
Great video. Do you have a video for Bearing & Hub replacement?
Been waiting for this one, thanks a bunch. Great instructions!!! Mine
aren’t quite in need of replacing just yet however at 108,000 miles I’m
probably getting close. The Explorer has been in NV it’s entire life so no
rust 🙂 Thank goodness. What’s your thoughts on the 2004 4.0 SOHC engine?
How many miles have you seen then go with the stock timing chain cassettes?
So far everything is original at 108k including the transmission. I take
very good care of it and do all of my own maintenance/repairs because I
have yet to find somebody who has attention to detail such as you and have
been burned in the past. You know what they say, if you want a job well
done then do it yourself.
Great video. Very informative. Too bad you couldn’t show the install. Were
the time constraints a work thing or a YouTube thing? If the latter then
maybe a ‘part 2’?
Whats the blue lube you put on the bearing & hub when you were pressing it
in? I’ve always used anti-sieze or brake caliper grease since they can
handle high temps without liquifying.
I’ve done a few of these and just use the aftermarket kits that come with
the snap ring bearing and hub. Our shop doesn’t have a press so have to
send to machine shop. He does not like the ebrake parts on it. Do those get
in the way at all?
So… I pressed the hub back into the bearing.. But forgot to brace the
inner race and it pushed it out just a bit… So after swearing a bunch I
tapped the inner race back into position and it all seemed okay and spun
good and everything.. Will it be okay? Lol drives just fine. No more
bearing howl, but yeah.. Hope it will be okay..
Awesome video! I need to do this exact repair. I’m having a shop do the
press but this is a big help for getting the knuckle out. Thanks!!!!
that rear upper balljoint looks worn out i woulda tried to sell the job.
looked loose but maybe it was different in person tho
Thanks bro!!!!! Your a big help. Looks like i will be delegating this one.
Very NICE! I bring it to a NAPA machine shop and they do a great job there.
Even some shops use them. I think I paid $60 for both sides, worth it. The
setup is very similar to an IRS 89-97 Tbird/Mark8(identical except for size
once the spindle is off). I know there special Ford tools for the press
cups for that vehicle. In the salt belt those DIY 20Ton presses won’t touch
that. It is also dangerous if you aren’t experienced, not a DIY thing.
There are some FWD hub tamer tools but I don’t think they would do this
job. I usually get a new hub, I guess it is ok though if it is intact.
Your videos are excellent. Thank you for taking the time to help us DYI’s.
How would you change the front wheel bearings on a 2007 ford fusion
Great video! Thanks!
How much you charge for the labor on this job?
where do you get all these white towels? ive only used red rags.
Do Ford Expedition’s have rear toe links?
Thank you very much..lots of tips and tricks!!!
You need to do one of replacing the bearings on a solid axle.
I have a question. What causes suspensions to squeak? I’ve noticed that on
some Fords. My ’05 Grand Marquis suspension would sometimes make a
squeaking sound when I go over some bumps at low speeds.
Sounds very quiet in that shop. Hope your not flat rate
Some great video work and great tips. Appreciate your knowledge being
shared.
Great video. I did this yesterday on my Explorer and breezed through this
in no time. Thanks!
Very nice demo. Thank you.