This seems to be a dead thread as far as comments go but a quick helpful
hint to those who might stumble across this video for help.
For some reason, this is a common issue with people/carpenters building
their internal drawer frames.
You want your material on the front to be “cut short” to act as the “inside
of your frame” instead of the outside as depicted here with this
gentleman’s 2×4 frame.
Here’s why,, when the drawer is filled with heavy objects, especially here
in this video using these drawers in a shop atmosphere, the impact of when
you close the drawer with all those heavy objects inside will pull at your
fasteners from front to back instead of them being inside the frame tied
side to side.
Cut your front pieces shorter acting as the inside of the frame at your
front & rear areas & your outside/side pieces running front to back the
longer cuts so you can insert your front piece “in between them” & fasten
them from the side position so there’s no stress on the fasteners.
That way when the drawer is closed, the screws or nails are pulled from the
side instead of tearing away at your frame pulling it apart like a jack
hammer effect.
If you do happen to build them incorrectly & install side mount guides,
simply insert a screw at the very front of the guide rail system tying your
rail & frame together to help with the impact.
My comments only reference building the internal drawer frame itself, not
the guide rail system this video was created to help with.
For some reason most will build their frames without considering their true
function & the impact of opening/shutting those drawers each time..
Nice! Clear instructions and GREAT demonstration. Good explaniation of what
to look out for when doing final fix. Thanks alot . U taught me something
really useful.
You make the most important comment at the beginning, about the positioning
to be exactly right or else it binds. Those richelieu slides are notorious
for that. Also the width of the drawer must be consistent front to back so
it’s perfectly parallel. I can see that yours is good by how nicely it
slides.
How much larger is the opening that the drawer slides into than the width
of the drawer? Or, more precisely, how much extra space is required for the
drawer slides? Thanks
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This seems to be a dead thread as far as comments go but a quick helpful
hint to those who might stumble across this video for help.
For some reason, this is a common issue with people/carpenters building
their internal drawer frames.
You want your material on the front to be “cut short” to act as the “inside
of your frame” instead of the outside as depicted here with this
gentleman’s 2×4 frame.
Here’s why,, when the drawer is filled with heavy objects, especially here
in this video using these drawers in a shop atmosphere, the impact of when
you close the drawer with all those heavy objects inside will pull at your
fasteners from front to back instead of them being inside the frame tied
side to side.
Cut your front pieces shorter acting as the inside of the frame at your
front & rear areas & your outside/side pieces running front to back the
longer cuts so you can insert your front piece “in between them” & fasten
them from the side position so there’s no stress on the fasteners.
That way when the drawer is closed, the screws or nails are pulled from the
side instead of tearing away at your frame pulling it apart like a jack
hammer effect.
If you do happen to build them incorrectly & install side mount guides,
simply insert a screw at the very front of the guide rail system tying your
rail & frame together to help with the impact.
My comments only reference building the internal drawer frame itself, not
the guide rail system this video was created to help with.
For some reason most will build their frames without considering their true
function & the impact of opening/shutting those drawers each time..
Excellent, great build!
Nice! Clear instructions and GREAT demonstration. Good explaniation of what
to look out for when doing final fix. Thanks alot . U taught me something
really useful.
the clearence must be 1″ (1/2″ on each side), i.e, width of opening minus
1″ results in external width of drawer.
@akissforjosey lol never really thought about that til now.
nice job!
thats what she said. everything you say in this video. thats what she said.
or what not….lol
Nice
nice that ppl do this, i just waned to know how ””Drawer slides””
looks, i din’t know hat it was becouse ime from the netherlands , im dutch
yes
You make the most important comment at the beginning, about the positioning
to be exactly right or else it binds. Those richelieu slides are notorious
for that. Also the width of the drawer must be consistent front to back so
it’s perfectly parallel. I can see that yours is good by how nicely it
slides.
“That’s what SHE said!”
great job…straightforward
it’s also easy to get someone to hold the camera for you
LOL this help alot thx alot bro this is great now we can finish our
kitchen!!
How much larger is the opening that the drawer slides into than the width
of the drawer? Or, more precisely, how much extra space is required for the
drawer slides? Thanks
nice vid man
Nicely done! Clear instructions and demonstration. Thank you!
Im actually not quite sure now that it has been several years since this
video, im guessing about 1/4″-3/8″ per side.