Choosing a head gasket, installing heads, head bolts and lubrication, rocker arm studs and adjustable guide plates, and setting lash.
Engine Building Part 7: Installing Heads, Head Gaskets, Head Bolts, Rockers, & Setting Lash
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I love the knowledge that you have, but you are repetitive in how you relay
this knowledge (how many times you said gasket or reference pin). I get it,
it’s like public speaking trying to make a video on the fly with out a
script is not easy. Just a bit of constructive criticism.
I still walked away with a lot more knowledge than before watching this
video and for that I thank you.
Hello I like your videos I have a question. What pressure or torc should I
give to the bolts on the cylinder head on my 2008 BW 2.5l oh by the way my
dad wants to know that from you
awesome videos .its grate that you have put up so much useful information
Hey Pete, love your video’s! Watched all of them from the engine building
series, they have been very helpfull. I have a question, however. I’m in
the process of installing the rockers and I’m using the same ones,
including the different ratios. However I read that it’s better to use the
1.72 on the exhaust side because of the relatively bad flow on that side in
ford heads. I saw you put them on the intake side. Is there a certain
reason you did that and what would make for the better choice? Thank you in
advance!
Great job Pete. When you have the time…. I would like to know how you
determined the push rod length for those link-bar roller lifters and cam.
I’m going to run GT40 heads on my engine, they are relatively cheap. I
want low end torque vs. high end hp.
Hey Pete idk if somebody already asked this or not but I need an answer, is
it normal for the head gaskets to cover two of the water passage, I see
that you have the exact same felpro gaskets which cover the same two
passages, wouldn’t that restrict coolant flow or somehow blow a head
gasket? I’m working on a 351w and I need to know this before I move on,
thanks man!
Good vid’s! Oil mod’s should ALWAYS be done on main bearing holes, oil pump
holes and oil return holes. Ford FEs are way off but nothing a burr and
die grinder can’t fix. Scribe the gasket/bearing, then grind away.
You never checked the all-important valve-to-piston clearance. You have
different height heads (from stock), the block deck was shaved, the valve
trains are different ratios, cam timing is different, etc.
Also, this ‘stack’ is critical for choosing proper push rod lengths. Now
you have changed the geometry of your rocker arms by using those caps.
Your rockers are already too short and that’s why you’re hitting the arm
against the valve spring (yes it’s a spring). Prolonged use will cause
your guides to wear. The arm should travel equally through the center of
the ‘rocking motion’ but yours don’t, causing reduced valve travel.
Pull a pair of springs off and measure ‘valve-to-piston’ clearance, then
buy proper length pushrods. Throw those ‘caps’ away.
Hydraulic lifter base circle preload is usually a liberal .035″, depending
on the LIFTER manufacturer. Simply turning a nut 1/2-turn shoots from the
hip unless that equates to the thread pitch. If your threads are 18 per
inch (1.00″) one turn will be: One inch divided by 18 or .0555″ per turn.
One half turn is.0555/2 = .028″. Is this your stud pitch?
Morel-type lifter links and OEM Ford dog bones are different but they do
the same job, holding the roller square to the cam lobe. They usually need
different length pushrods which can only be determined after the heads are
in place. – Dave
You are an engineer in your line of work. Am I right?
Hey Pete. keep up the great vids. One thing you didnt really cover was
valves and springs.. Would love a lesson on that aspect. cheers!
Great video! I was a little hesitant to take on the job, but now I think I
can handle it. I have a 72 Chevelle with a stock rebuilt 350 I am putting
on Dart SHP heads and Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers to replace the stock
Iron heads. I am worried about clearance issues and I know I will need to
check pushrod length. I will be using Fel Pro 1010 head gasket which has
are .039″ thick.. will I be okay with this setup? Thanks, you rock!
Pete, the setup im working with 347 stroker kit with trick flow aluminum
heads 170cc, what cam and rockers would you recommend?
Hey Pete,
I’m 16 and just got my first car (1967 Pontiac Tempest) with the 327 block
in it. I was looking to swap the heads for a 383, but heard that a 440
would work, but can’t find anything to clarify that,but I have seen people
say a 383 could be swapped for the 440, but a 383 is essentially a bored
out 327 right? Basically I was just wondering if it’s possible to just swap
my 327 heads for a 440, or if i’d be better off sticking with the 383.
Thanks,
-Dillon
do you have a video of you installing valves and valve springs?
Id also like to say thank you for these videos, such easy videos to follow!
Do you check your pushrod length with or without the lash caps?
great instructional video…..wish that I had had a calculus teacher like
you…
Pete, I always enjoy wrenching videos, and yours along with ericthecarguy,
are always the most informative, and I get a lot from them. I would like
to know if you have rebuilt any Mercruiser Marine engines? I’m currently
working on Mercruiser 3.0 Marine engine, and there isn’t a lot of real time
videos on how to’s , and as you probably know, watching someone explain how
to do something, and why it should be done this way, just adds to the
experience of wrenching for us DIY kinda folks
A marine engine would be fun for you to rebuild:) so I can watch:)
I’m building a 408 stroker and was wondering about your lifters. I am
using the link bar lifters instead of a small base circle cam. I see that
at 17:00 you have the link bars located to the outside but at 34:45 you
have the link bars (dog bones) to the inside of the block. Does it matter
if the bars are on the outside or inside of the lifters?
Great video! I had a few questions if you dont mind. I bought a Mustang
with a 306 short block not too long ago. It has a stock bottom end with
the exception of 4.030″ Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons. It’s an older
flat tappet block and I am currently unsure of the cam in the motor. I
bought Canfield sbf heads used and from everything I’m reading they
recommend either the Fel-Pro 1011-1 or 1011-2 head gaskets. The difference
that I’m reading is the 1011-1 are steel lined and the 1011-2 are copper
and there is a .002″ thickness difference. How would these compare with
using the 9333pt1 head gasket? Also, is it true that the steel lines
gaskets can cause over due stress on the head and possible cracking? What
head gasket would you recommend? Thanks
Thanks a lot for this series of videos. It´s like going to school. Love all
the detail explaining. Sure work as tutorial videos for me. One question
that I have is, I´ll be installing a e303 cam with stock rocker arms on my
almost stock EFI 302 and I wanted to know if I should adjust the the
rockers with the “after snug, half or full turn” method.
Once again, thanks for such great and precise videos.
Pete, why didn’t you use shaft-mounted rocker arms? Seems like you’re
going for high-end performance on this build, is there a reason to go with
stud-mounted rockers? Is it due to the specific cylinder head? Thanks!
Any recommendation on head gasket brand for my 95 lt1 corvette with
aluminum heads.
Excellent
Your videos are amazing. You are so knowledgable.
Ok first thanks for the videos. …I wonder if you can help me ….I got
trick flow heads 170 .Scorpion rockers. .ford racing lifters. But I not
sure of length of pushrod…
Pete great vid. You are doing a great job. I have a 68 302 block with AFR
Heads part #1420.
I wanted to know what gasket number that was you used. I ordered fel-pro
1011-1 as per AFR. Is this the gasket you used?
Also i noticed that there is only a small weep hole at the front of the
block head gasket but the heads and the block both have bigger openings for
water passages.. Why is this the case? Doesnt that restrict the coolent
flow and increase temp? Same with the fact that the gasket has a small hole
but there is a larger triangle size water passage.
Another item ur expertise could help me with is i have 2 roller hydraulic
lifters that are sticking. I have seen other videos on how to take apart
and clean the lifters… Do you think that is okay to do?
The 2nd is that a few od the other lifters have signs of wear but i run my
finger nail across them and its smooth but you can see a difference in
where it is wearing. The wear is on the roller and the housing of the
roller valve… I can send pics if it is helpful.
Cant wait for your reply..
Great video & instructions
thanks for sharing the info great video
you rock man ur a great teacher
Ok first thanks for the videos. …I wonder if you can help me ….I got
trick flow heads 170 .Scorpion rockers. .ford racing lifters. But I not
sure of length of pushrod…
Pete, before you installed the lifters did you soak them in oil? I read
that you should soak them for around 48 hours before you install them. What
do you think about that? Thanks!
I forgot to ask. I noticed that you didnt use any gasket sealer on the head
gasket and torqued it down dry. I have been told that a thin layer of
gasket sealer should be applied to both sides of the gasket when
installing. What are your thoughts on that? Around the water passages are
what iv heard is the most important to apply a thick layer around. Cheers
Sweet videos Pete.. i just had my heads reworked Ive taken care not to turn
over the motor and mark the distributor should i reinstall the heads way it
was or start over from top dead center and make my adjustments
Watch this video Mr. Bendos, lot of good info! +Tony Bendos
I need help. I got some bolts for my heads. Are the bolts supposed to feel
lose all around the head without torquing it? This is my first time opening
up a engine.
You are great man . Please do a video in connectors wires and cables in the
car and how can we deal with them that would be very helpful as your all
interesting videos . Details details thats what we need and you have that
skill
What about the valve springs? I didn’t hear you say anything about them
unless I missed it.
do you apply anti-seize paste on your bolts for torquing (any important
bolts .)
you are making very very interesting video
when i listen to them ,i realize that i know nothing except my small
mechanical course lol
thanks many times
excellent video!!
Hey Pete I have always been interested in the automotive industries and I
know a thing or two about cars but I would like to increase my knowledge by
going to school… What I am trying to ask so where should someone start to
get into the automotive industry (schooling, technical or traditional)