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The CCM Brakes on My Ferrari 360 need a major overhaul, I attempt to save some money but this repair costs me big time !
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I suspect the grease gun will win, but you might make the job a little easier by trying a pliers or channel lock on the exposed end of the pistons and try go give them a slight turn. Going back with SS pistons? Worst case EDM (electric erosion) can get that bolt out if other methods fail. I assume you're going to service the other side to ensure a balanced set?
u r not going to replace the shock or Strut after going through all that
I would put Benbro breaks on it rather than factory. Then had Ferrari decals made to put on it .
I found the best way of doing that is turn your Steering wheel to where the wheel is turning outward towards you to have more leverage
Been missing these kind of videos, it's been a while..
Is the Ferrari lettering on the new caliper upside down?
Offf, that bolt was destined to snap with that bar hanging off it. I’m not at all car mechanic minded or experienced, but would a shop with a rattle gun been a better bet?
Ok, to many things going on here. Do not use WD-40 WD is Water Displacement #40. Us a Penetrating oil instead. To find out which is best to use go to Project Farm on YouTube. When having problems loosening any bolts you spray a Penetrating oil when loosening and tightening to work it out. LOL
I knew that bolt was snapping as soon as the jack handle came out, at that point I'd have pulled out the gas torch and gave the threads a serious sun tan then went on it with that impact gun (the 1/2 inch mac guns are quite decent btw)
As that saying goes, every simple 20 minute job is a broken bolt away from becoming a 2 day ordeal.
Do you do annual brake fluid flushes? Also, WD-40??? Pick up some Wurth Rost Off Max Ice Penetrating Lubricant.
Tig weld a nut on it plus oxy/acetylene torch while turning
Old covette calipers that corrode we press in new ss sleeves after boring them out. Standard pistons are used…i wouldn't use grease as its impossible to remove it all after
I have used pieces of pipe from my kids razor scooter as extension pipes when doing brake jobs to get tough bolts freed.
This is the most realistic brake job video on YouTube.
Stainless bolts + LOCTITE LB 8023. Never deal with this again!
Im sorry mate but as a fan that drives me nuts! When u half fix your cars. U fix 1 side but not the other. With the control arm etc. u fixed the other side 2years ago! I think we all know if u wanted too u can afford to do it all at once. And then its done! Cmon son! Thats crazy!
You made the right decision buying the hub.
As a bit of an amateur mechanic, I really felt for you on this one! Bloody thing!
Oh man, your other Ferrari on the driveway is too close for comfort. Things break when people use power tools and impact wrenches without checking that the bolt is straight, shit happens.
Ah yes, the ole while we have it apart we might as well fix [insert ‘cheap’ part name].
Oh No. If not bad luck you would not have any luck at all. You should be able to find someone to rebuild your calipers for fraction of new. Looking forward to Part 2. Get'er done.
Looks like a clear case of galvanic corrosion between the steel bolt and aluminium hub. Have you investigated the use of induction heaters for such tasks – excellent bits of kit and have become affordable. Also, WD40 is not at all good as a penetrating fluid. PB Blaster and similar products which use a chemical action are far better.
Pro-Tip: when you’re going to work on the front brakes…use the emergency brake to stop the car so the front pads won’t be clamped onto the rotors when you go to pull the calipers.