Replacing the rear brake pads and rotors on my 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan. I conducted this repair without the Chrysler Special Tool 8807 used to rotate the ca…
STEP BY STEP: Grand Caravan REAR disc brake pads & rotors without special tool (2007-2013)
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thanks ,now I know what I have to deal with.
wth? who leaves the caliper on the bracket like that? you NEED to lube the
slide pins/sleeves. otherwise you will have problems after a lil while,
ESPECIALLY with the ceramic (or any other good pads) due to how long they
last. (I am a Chrysler Certfied Tech. this is what i do, so i know what im
talking about)
Just changed the pads and rotors on my 2011 and the needle nose pliers
worked like a charm. Thanks so much! I saved $300.00 doing it myself.
Step no. 1, wash that damn car
Thanks very complete!!
Thanks, I could not figure out that piston!
Just as an FYI, this does not apply to the 2007. The assembly was changed
for 2008 and is completely different than the 2007.
Bad job overall. The caliper was not checked to ensure it slides well and
the sliders were not lubicated. Also the pads were not greased with
anti-size conpound so they may easily jam in the pad holder. Before
installing a new rotor, the surface of the hub must be cleaned to ensure
their is no rust and should be geased with anti rust grease.
Thank you so much, exactly my problem. (Rear brakes 2010 caraven)
Unfortunatly this is the second time in 40000 kilometers .
Fixed for free by the dealer the first time, but exactly the same symptoms
again a few miles later.
The “clue” is quiet squeeking with no brakes applied, that becomes quiet,
with just a tiny brake application.
Just looked tonight, lots of disk material remaining, rotors still smooth,
no sign of extreme heat, BUT, the rotor is not free to spin, the disks are
not releasing all the way.
Any tips on a peranent fix ?
Thanks.
Ross
Your video is most helpful, EXCEPT for the main surprise. Expand it just
a little and show us how much fun it is to get an old rotor off – when it’s
been rust-bonded to the plate behind it. Whoosh! What fun.
TY, much needed info ….
excellent video,good clear camera work
Great attention to detail is what I love about your videos. I have had
issues with rear discs on cars and I really don’t think that the average
car really needs discs in the rear. I find that drums last longer and have
a lot less problems. Drums are more trouble to change but in my experience
they are pretty foolproof. When chev put rear discs on their trucks they
had problems with rock getting in them and causing a lot of grief. The
design of the parking brakes and other details to me make the rear discs
more prone to problems. As for shorter stopping distances, I find that more
a function of the brand of vehicle than the type of brakes.
It is possible to change the pads without removing the main body of the
rear brake caliper on 2008 and later models. If the rotor has to be refaced
or replaced, the main body of the caliper will have to be removed.
Remove the two 13 millimetre headed bolts.
GENTLY move the caliper piston back using a large C-clamp on the outer
brake pad and rear of the piston body. This will gain you a tiny bit of
clearance beyond what the normal retraction of the piston will give you.
Grasp the piston body with one hand and tap on the outer casting away
from the rotor. The purists won’t like this, but it will allow you to
remove the piston body off of the brake pads which will remain in place.You
will have to fight with the emergency brake cable to perform this.
Remove the old pads and anti-rattle spring clips paying attention to the
placement of the wear-warning spring. The new spring clips are indexed to
the shape of the tabs on the pads. Make sure you get this right. Install
the new pads with the wear-warning spring as you found it on the old pads.
Service the slide-pins as necessary with the special high-temp grease
supplied with the pads.
Turn in the piston either with a special tool for that job, or in my
case I used a large adjustable pliers (pump-pliers) to rotate the piston
inward, clockwise. Avoid damage to the rubber piston boot.
Seat the piston gently, and then back it out so that it is a tight fit
over the new pads. This may take a couple tries to adjust so that the
caliper will fit snugly on the new pads. Again you will have to fight the
emergency brake cable to perform this.
Install the 13 millimetre bolts and verify that the rotor turns freely.
With the piston adjusted correctly, the brake pedal will take little or no
‘pumping up’ as in a front caliper replacement job..
Test the emergency brake pedal operation to verify that it applies and
releases properly.
By not ‘seating’ the piston to it’s lowest level, a lot of fiddling
around is saved trying to activate the automatic adjuster.
Yes, use a torque wrench on the lug-nuts when installing the tire…
Avoid warping the rotor by over-tightening or the danger of a wheel working
loose. Recheck the torque after some driving.
Work safe and clean up behind yourself!
done you don’t need special tool for compressing piston back just use c-
clamp a large one and position to clamp and then use long nose to turn and
compress ez!!!
Good video… the only thing I would add and recommend is to clean the
caliper slide pins and lube them with caliper lube.
great vid but you should change before you get metal to metal because its
really easy to monitor just look at the brake pads from outside the rim
etc
This was an excellent video! I believe the grease is for the caliper pins.
I would like to know if there is an easy way to just replace the pads.
There is not much that I can find for instructionals on this.
I used the same Duralast pads on my neighbor’s van, any idea what the
included packet of grease was for? I didn’t use any because in my opinion,
putting grease anywhere near brakes is a pretty bad idea. It did seem like
actual grease, not anti squeal compound. No instructions of course were
included.
This was very helpful if only for pointing out that retracting the piston
was different for the rear brakes, screwing vs c-clamp.
thanks.very helpful
Very helpful, great work!
Learned something new, cool.
Thanks for sharing this video. Next time I will replace brakes and pads by
myself.