Car Fix DIY Videos

How to to troubleshoot and repair the trailer lights on your Dodge Ram. For this I’m using my 2006 1500 equipped with the seven pin plug as an example. I will be showing you how to test your trailer light circuit with a test light and then repair the issue. #oemtools #dodgeram #deoxit #electrical

OEMTOOLS 25019 Heavy Duty Circuit Tester: https://www.mobiledistributorsupply.com/heavy-duty-circuit-tester-1
DeoxIT D5: https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d5s-6/

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-test light
-contact cleaner
-liquid tape
-ratchet set
-electrical tape
-cable ties

Procedure:
I have the seven pin connector and an adapter to convert over to a four pin. Using a test light, connect the alligator clip to the ground terminal. This is the exposed terminal on the four pin connector. Turn on your parking lights and four-way flashers.

The left and right flashers are working however the parking lights are not. With the lights working, we also know that we have good ground. If the test light does not illuminate from any of the pins, this could be a bad ground so try switching your ground to another source such as the steel bumper or a bare spot on the frame.

Now testing at the seven pin plug, I have the alligator clip hook to the chrome bumper which can be used as a ground source. On the lid of the connector is a wiring diagram, labeling each of the pins. Again is testing with the test light. For the reverse light, you will need the vehicle in reverse. And for the electric brakes, you will need that activated as well if your vehicle has that option.

Remove the connector to inspect the plug and wiring at the rear. Here I am required to remove the four Torx head fasteners. Immediately I can already see a cut in the casing of one of the wires. I checked a wiring diagram after, and found out this was one of the signal wires.

Using a rag, I cleaned up any dirt on the wiring and electrical plug. This will allow me to see more and make it easier to remove the electrical connector. Using a small standard screwdriver, the red plastic lock needs to slide out to depress the tank on the electrical connector and remove. With the buildup of dirt, this may prevent the lock from disengaging. You’ll need to try to clean it as best as possible.

Inspecting both sides of the connection, this is surprisingly clean and there is no corrosion found. Pulling the wire out, there may or may not be a wire retaining clip on the rear that needs to be removed. Next I removed the split loop casing.

Using the test light again, I can check the electrical connector, this will help isolate a problem. If power is found here for the parking lights, then the seven pin plug is causing the issue. If there is no power here for the parking lights, then the problem is further back either in the wiring or somewhere else on the vehicle.

Electrical contact cleaner was used on all the terminals. I also sprayed down the break in the casing on the one wire, this will be sealed up once it’s dried.

After some reading around and then looking at the owner’s manual, I found that the trailer lights are on their own circuit. This means that they are fused. Looking under the hood at the fuse box, you will see that number 15 is for the trailer parking lights. This can then be referenced on the diagram.

Again using the test light, the ground terminal is connected to the battery and then is probing the top of the fuse. As you can see there is only power at one side of the fuse, this means that the fuse is burnt out. A new fuse is installed, then the fuse box cover can be put back into place.

That spot with the brake and the casing was covered up with liquid tape. The conductor inside it still seems to be in good condition so there’s no need to splice the wires here. The split casing is put back into place and then the wiring is reinstalled. Took the wiring back up under the truck, reinstalled any wire retaining clips if needed and used cable ties.

Feed the electrical connector through the hole in the bumper, then plug it into place. Push that red plastic lock into place. Reinstall the trailer connector back into the bumper, and reinstall those four fasteners. Going back with the test light, retest all the pins ensuring they are working correctly. As you can see it is functioning as it should.

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