In this video I have a look at a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins that came in with a short list of things that stopped working. They include but are not limited to the radio, intermittent wipers, the power seat, dash lights, marker lights, and dome lights. Customer told me it had been a long time sense they last worked. -Enjoy!
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*Power Probe IV w/Case & Acc – Red : https://amzn.to/2Us6mJZ
*Info On OEM Subscriptions: https://www.nastf.org
*AllData DIY: http://alldatadiy.com
*Mitchell DIY: http://www.eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp
*Free Diagrams: http://www.bbbindustries.com/technical.html
*NEW LEVEL AUTO* : https://www.youtube.com/user/ONBOARDTECH333KMD
*PINE HOLLOW AUTO DIAGNOSTICS* : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCn4Ifss-t3wMT6VBzQoKPUA
I wonder if the indicator he was talking about was the bulb lol..good video like normal Eric
Great diagnosis, Eric! The only missing item in this video (other than the 50 amp fuse) would have been to incorporate some brake clean into your diagnostic protocol!! Thanks for your videos!
Probably the local Jiffy lube trying to drum up new business.
I had same problem, it was the AOD fuse.
Hi Eric, I think you should consider a deepcleaner service prior to repairs. LoL
unfortunately i know exactly what fuse that is because it happened to my truck when i put in new radio
For electronic service manuals check with your library. My city library has Automate and Chilton's available for free. They used to have AllData for use in library only but didn't renew the subscription.
if you can't DODGE it RAM it!
I noticed a University of Hawaii sticker on the lift. How did the shop come by one of those?
Where can I get a SMA sticker if y’all are still doing those?
Yeah did you or the customer replaced the burned out bulb?
Mitchell 1 does have the DIY’r. I use it on my vehicles. With taxes was about $45 for 4 years. Well worth it. Haynes manuals are $25-$30 and show nearly nothing these days.
This question is off topic, but I have a 2016 Fiesta ST with the 1.6 ecoboost. With direct injection Im nervous about issues with gumming up the intake valves in the future. It has 18,000 miles now, and is put away during the winter (fellow upstate NY'er from Utica). The only permanent solution I can think of is a water/meth injection kit. Any ideas? Have you seen many issues with the ecoboosts gumming up intake valves?
u should inform ur customer that he has a "friend" that knows his truck better than him that doesn't know how to call out a joke until he gets charged for it. a fuse like that doesn't disappear randomly. the truck owner had a mechanic friend that was an arsehole that removed the fuse and let his "friend" pay for the repair without ever admitting he did what he did.
Hey eric i have been watching you videos for a few months now im a young Mechanic in Michigan mostly working on my projects but just recently i had to replace the gas tank in my 1999 f150 with the amazing 5.4 after getting it in when i go to fill it it spits back at me the filler neck and hoses are new im stuck if there is any advice you could give me that would be much appreciated
Thanks Eric. Again great logical progression. I still generally believe in the goodness of most humans and don't think this guy was trying to test you. However, you got wonder where the 50 amp fuse went. Thanks again. You're always educating and I appreciate it.
I've watched a lot of your videos and learned a lot from you! I appreciate your work and enjoy your videos. I've been trying to figure out this 2004 Dodge Stratus with a 2.4. Got it dirt cheap. Engine light was on, but ran pretty good… until the light started flashing and it died. Checked oil, was bone dry! Leaked out all oil through spark plug tubes. Added oil of course, got it home. Changed the valve cover gasket and tube seals, changed spark plugs, cleaned everything up, put it back together.. crank but no start. Tried to check compression but it didn't show much. Hooked up code reader, no connection to PCM. Got some sea foam and soaked the pistons overnight… started, but barely ran and makes noise, knocking, etc. Checked injector ohms, showed 12 ohms across, but reference voltage reads only 4+ volts on connectors, and coil connection reads even less. I was under the impression that coil and injectors should show 12v, but I'm not sure if that's only if it's running or something? Gonna drain the oil and add fresh oil with Restore, and see if I can get it to run some more… but I was wondering if I should run a 12v jumper wire to the coil first and maybe to the injectors also? Any suggestions? I saw you had some success with Restore. Hoping my compression increases at least, but I obviously have some electrical issues. I kind of suspect the PCM is bad, but I've seen where bad sensors can pull the voltage down… so not sure yet. I did get a 5v reference from a few sensors, but I haven't tested them all yet, like the cam and crank… I did check the fuses, and one was blown inside the cab for the radio and something else (I thought for the PCM) but the radio didn't come on and the OBD connector is still dead. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 🙂 Keep up the great work!
Maybe I'm crazy, but I thought I heard a relay click when you put that fuse in. Is it possible the fuse was removed because something is causing a battery drain? Or was that an accessory relay that eventually powers down?