Thanks for the video. Excellent. Work and lighting very detailed. I’m going
to do it base don your insight. How ever what do you torqiue the bolts,too?
The sway bar link and the ball joint bolts, if I don’t have a good torque
wrench ( harbour freight is what I have. Thanks
Like the video but the local shops quoted 600 dollar labor…… just
because its a dodge and its riveted…. plus just after i put tires on it
found out a rear axel seal is out…… another150 i only spent 3800 on
buying the truck.. starting to think i shoulda parked it on the side of the
45e and asked $6000 after i overhauled the front brakes due to random
locking
You can take the rivet head off like he does in the video without drilling
any holes. Once it’s off and smooth to the A-arm you just take a pointed
air chisel and knock the rivets through the back. That’s how I skipped
drilling because I didn’t have any good bits at the time. I think it’ll
make it a bit less work drilling though.. It took a long time chiseling the
heads off with no holes to weaken them for me. I’m about to try the drill
method though, so I’ll update when I’m done.
NOTICE!!!! a much easier way to remove the original ball joint. (use a air
chisel and chisel the rivets sideways until they bust loose.) then use a
punch the hammer them out. much faster then drilling.
Thank You! I have an 03 Ram. Luckily I don’t have rivets to deal with. (I
HATE RIVETS!) I must say you make rivet removal easier than anyone I’ve
ever seen! Most people torch them off. This is much neater. Plus I don’t
have a torch. Your videos are very helpful!
Rich I just subscribed as I had to replace both stabilizer links and
tomorrow both upper ball joints. Merinsmith has a video with the official
Dodge service bulletin showing to cut an X into the rivets with a grinder
and then air chisel the heads off. Have you tried that as opposed to
drilling the holes in the rivets. thanks,Charlie
I have about 5 inches of play in my steering wheel. Along with the front
end dipping 2 or so inches when i turn all the way to the right. Might the
Ball Joints be a likely culprit. Or is there something more to it?
This video is great. He saved me hours of work. I was able to knock out
both upper and lower ball joints in one hour. Pay attention. This is great
advice.
Great video Rich! Everyone always just skips over removing the rivets, but
you show us step-by-step, exactly how to do it! That air chisel made it
look easy and efficient (but drilling the rivets out paved the way for
success)! That looked like a Spicer (now Napa) outer tie rod, was it?
Remember when American car companies used castings and solid steel to make
a car or truck. Grease fittings all around? You were able to maintain your
car. Now it’s rivets, plastic and stamped pieces to make a suspension. No
wonder these parts wear out so fast. But again thats the idea… Another
trip to the dealer for service.. at 120 an hour. Keep up the good work
Rich..
Rich, I changed my upper ball joint today and tried the cut grooves in the
rivets. I only have a 4 1/2 inch grinder and the wheel is too big to make a
cut a good X in the rivet heads. The ticket is an air grinder with a
smaller cutting wheel. I then drilled holes and that is the way to go as
far as I can tell. Once again, thanks for the good video.
I have a 4×4 Dakota (2003) rust level fairly similar to the one you’re
working on here. How can I tell if my ball joints are bad…I just have
both upper and lower replaced on the right side and it apparently made my
mechanics NUTS. They aren’t used to rusty trucks in Florida so yeah. I also
had the wheel hub bearing on the other side replaced (same trip) and I’m
thinking one of those two things needs replaced on the side it wasn’t
replaced on. Thinking of going to pepboys or a dealer this time.
The drilling is a little tricky but makes them come out easier. Important
Update: Jan 2013 there will be a new richpin channel for all future
videos.Richpin06a channel will be mainly for all the Saturn lovers out
there.Should be a lot of fun so stay tuned.
Richpin, You are the best subscription decision ive ever made.
@reap62 Absolutely not.
Thanks for the video. Excellent. Work and lighting very detailed. I’m going
to do it base don your insight. How ever what do you torqiue the bolts,too?
The sway bar link and the ball joint bolts, if I don’t have a good torque
wrench ( harbour freight is what I have. Thanks
Like the video but the local shops quoted 600 dollar labor…… just
because its a dodge and its riveted…. plus just after i put tires on it
found out a rear axel seal is out…… another150 i only spent 3800 on
buying the truck.. starting to think i shoulda parked it on the side of the
45e and asked $6000 after i overhauled the front brakes due to random
locking
Good video!
You can take the rivet head off like he does in the video without drilling
any holes. Once it’s off and smooth to the A-arm you just take a pointed
air chisel and knock the rivets through the back. That’s how I skipped
drilling because I didn’t have any good bits at the time. I think it’ll
make it a bit less work drilling though.. It took a long time chiseling the
heads off with no holes to weaken them for me. I’m about to try the drill
method though, so I’ll update when I’m done.
i dont have a example vid sorry. but im sure you can fin something on here
some wheres. good luck
Got an example vid?
I have to do all this on my 02 Dakota when i get home. Great vid you make
it look easy!
NOTICE!!!! a much easier way to remove the original ball joint. (use a air
chisel and chisel the rivets sideways until they bust loose.) then use a
punch the hammer them out. much faster then drilling.
just wondering the torque specs on those 4 bolts for the ball joint?
Thank You! I have an 03 Ram. Luckily I don’t have rivets to deal with. (I
HATE RIVETS!) I must say you make rivet removal easier than anyone I’ve
ever seen! Most people torch them off. This is much neater. Plus I don’t
have a torch. Your videos are very helpful!
@epiphaknee You are sharp,yes it was from Napa.
I have a 00 4×4 durango. Would it be about the same process?
Rich I just subscribed as I had to replace both stabilizer links and
tomorrow both upper ball joints. Merinsmith has a video with the official
Dodge service bulletin showing to cut an X into the rivets with a grinder
and then air chisel the heads off. Have you tried that as opposed to
drilling the holes in the rivets. thanks,Charlie
thanks great vid to let me see ahead of time what i need to do
It was a duralast.The uppers were fine.
awesome vid rich my friend has a 98 dakota and he used a torch MAN WAS THAT
A BAD IDEA !!!
I have about 5 inches of play in my steering wheel. Along with the front
end dipping 2 or so inches when i turn all the way to the right. Might the
Ball Joints be a likely culprit. Or is there something more to it?
You can not shock the knuckle with a rubber hammer.
@rodrigoelgu I love them they are differently a bargain.
This video is great. He saved me hours of work. I was able to knock out
both upper and lower ball joints in one hour. Pay attention. This is great
advice.
Great video Rich! Everyone always just skips over removing the rivets, but
you show us step-by-step, exactly how to do it! That air chisel made it
look easy and efficient (but drilling the rivets out paved the way for
success)! That looked like a Spicer (now Napa) outer tie rod, was it?
Another excellent video sir. Again, thank you.
You should have mentioned filling the grease fitting with grease. A
seemingly simple step could ruin that ball joint, again.
was just wondering what to torque the nut and bolt to since the replacement
does not come with the specs and it is nowhere online that i can find
Great Video! Thank You! Rich
Nice working ona more classic style of vehicle. Not front wheel drive.
Great as always…
nice truck
Sounds interesting i will have to investigate.
hey rich i jout bought me the mechanic gloves ur wearing forn harbor
freight for 4 dollars 🙂
oh ok, thats what i needed to know 🙂 thanks.
Love your video’s, I have learned plenty, keep it going.
With that much play it should be quite easy after you jack it off the
ground to find the problem.
@scottaner500 I would say it is the most economical way.
Thank you for posting this, Rich. I just did uppers and lowers on my 98
Dakota today. This video was a great help!
its 4×4 would there be a whole lotta differnce in it
Remember when American car companies used castings and solid steel to make
a car or truck. Grease fittings all around? You were able to maintain your
car. Now it’s rivets, plastic and stamped pieces to make a suspension. No
wonder these parts wear out so fast. But again thats the idea… Another
trip to the dealer for service.. at 120 an hour. Keep up the good work
Rich..
very organized and good illustrator ( one of the best I have seen). Learn a
lot from your video.
Rich, I changed my upper ball joint today and tried the cut grooves in the
rivets. I only have a 4 1/2 inch grinder and the wheel is too big to make a
cut a good X in the rivet heads. The ticket is an air grinder with a
smaller cutting wheel. I then drilled holes and that is the way to go as
far as I can tell. Once again, thanks for the good video.
nice
Great Video! Saved me a lot. Showing where to hit on the knuckle was really
helpful.
why a metal hammer and not a rubber mallet?
Hi I just notice my front bushings r looking bad & im replacing rear links
on 01 dakota.Thanks for the help.
I have a 4×4 Dakota (2003) rust level fairly similar to the one you’re
working on here. How can I tell if my ball joints are bad…I just have
both upper and lower replaced on the right side and it apparently made my
mechanics NUTS. They aren’t used to rusty trucks in Florida so yeah. I also
had the wheel hub bearing on the other side replaced (same trip) and I’m
thinking one of those two things needs replaced on the side it wasn’t
replaced on. Thinking of going to pepboys or a dealer this time.
What is the Dodge Dakota Sway Bar Link Replacement (upper nut and lower
nut) supposed to be torqued to?
If it is two wheel drive it should be the same.
The drilling is a little tricky but makes them come out easier. Important
Update: Jan 2013 there will be a new richpin channel for all future
videos.Richpin06a channel will be mainly for all the Saturn lovers out
there.Should be a lot of fun so stay tuned.
OEM parts if not what is the brand?