Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 Convertible, Repair, Troubleshooting

Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 Convertible, Repair, Troubleshooting

This is quick overview of typical minor problems encountered with the Gen I Chrysler Sebring JXI convertible,,years 1996-2000. You want reliability and good …

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syyenergy7 says:

I think it’s the CV joint; not the brakes.

Cyn Tolstyga says:

btw my 96 has 152k and has been running great until this suddenly started today. I def am going to get my brakes thoroughly checked before going anywhere else with it..

Cyn Tolstyga says:

Awesome video, concise and to the point, thanks- but my problem is this- 1996 JXI, got a sudden scrape scrape scrape sound out of the L front wheel leaving the curb. Stepped on the brakes. it stopped for a split second, then came back after I released the brake. Then, while driving, it seemed fine, then de-accelerated, and heard and felt a
pop pop pop pop sound kinda muffled and then it stopped as I stopped. Something wrong with the brakes, but. what could be causing the Popping sound?

syyenergy7 says:

I don’t think it would be the vent valve. It would be something either with the hoses that go to the evaporator canister (like a cracked hose), a gas cap that does not seal or the solenoid that is part of the system of the evaporator system. It is something to do with the closed fuel system that keeps gas from evaporating into the air. If when you take off the gas cap, after running a good while, & it seems like there is some suction, you can pretty much rule out a cracked hose or bad cap

Marcus M says:

I own a ’97 Chrysler sebring jxi convertible and its been to 2 mechanics already and none of them seem to find the problem. They both tell me me it must be something electrical. It will startup and run but as I’m coming to a stop the car stalls. It also stalls on idle. The code its giving my 3rd mechanic is P1494. Do you know what might be the problem? he wants to replace the fuel tank vent valve because he thinks it might be clogged but he cant even find the damn valve.

syyenergy7 says:

Btw, if you have several codes that show up. Clear the codes and then drive it 10 to 15 minutes The first that shows up, is it.

syyenergy7 says:

You might want to check out my vids, but it would be best if you read the codes. A fuel filter would give problems at high speed more than low speed. If no diagnostic code shows up I would suspect the torque converter in the trans. That is IF no codes show up. That trans can do crazy things Sometimes, so don’t overlook it, although I suspect something else. It could be a many things so you need the diagnostic code.

Scott Berosik says:

I got a 1997 chrysler sebring jxi 2.5 and it starts and runs fine but when you put it in drive a try to go the car jumps and kills sometimes just replaced the fuel filter

syyenergy7 says:

Trace back any wires you pulled off and replug in everything on the engine , including the distributor. You could have broke a wire internally also. Checking the codes may tell you exactly what is wrong because something is completely disconnected versus just starting to fail.

Michael Stevens says:

Thanks in advance for your time. I have a 98 Sebring Convertible JXI. Car started and ran fine. I changed the alternator and now it cranks but won’t fire up. Checked and have no spark. Only thing I disconnected was wiring to ac pump, and oil sensor, and of course the alternator wiring. Also along the way the wiring on the AC tube up top got disconnected somehow. Any ideas? Could I have missed hooking up something vital on that part of the engine?

syyenergy7 says:

Aftermarket CPS? On the CPS, that is one part that should be OEM. Or maybe the CPS spacing is off because the bolt was not in tight or the connector is not fully pushed in. But many people have had problems with aftermarket CPS’s if nothing else looks like the problem.

Bob Gretzler says:

Car Runs Eratic wants to stall

Bob Gretzler says:

code 1391 CMP CKP WHAT is it changed CPS ran good 1 day What next?


syyenergy7 says:

The likely places would be the hose from the egr and where the small hose connects to the back of the intake manifold or the brake booster vacuum line.

Patricia Oliveira says:

I forgot to say that the light for the battery is on, on the dash board. We are not mechanics but we are learning a lot from you and we appreciate it very much. Do you have a video that shows us how to look for that vacum leak? Thanks

syyenergy7 says:

Vacuum leak, Very likely.

Patricia Oliveira says:

we have done all you told us and it worked but now we have the RPM that stays on at 1500 and wont go down what do you think it might be? Thanks

syyenergy7 says:

Sounds good 🙂

TheMazdaAspec says:

getting back finally! After changing the spark plugs and wires, I did buy a new distributor and put it in and away it started right up. giving you a heads up total cost for the fix was $130 for parts and my time. I have a shopkey5 account as well which is what dealers use to rape you in cost and it would have cost the person $1,154 if a shop would have done it.

syyenergy7 says:

No sorry, I don’t have a video on that yet. 

Patricia Oliveira says:

thank you for your help ,the relay was dead. Do you have a video on replacing the compressor for the AC for the sebring ?

syyenergy7 says:

Also tap the starter relay, could be stuck.

syyenergy7 says:

The starter has a fuze and that could be blown. If that is not the problem check the voltage at the starter. Also could be a bad ignition switch.

Patricia Oliveira says:

My husband changed the crank position sensor, also the cooling fan switch, the thermostat
and the GPS valve and the car will not even click or turn now, we are going crazy. the battery work, when you put the key the light on the dash board are one so we dont know what else to do . please help!!!!

syyenergy7 says:

It could very well be the ignition coil in the distributor or the CPS (crank position sensor) starting to fail. Those are common fail points in the ignition system after years of service.
I have videos on how to change the CPS and also on how to change the ignition coil inside the distributor which is much. much cheaper than changing the whole distributor.

Patricia Oliveira says:

hi I have a 2000sebring convertible 2.5 and the other day on the highway the car kicked as I going to push the car from 60 m.p.h to 70 m.p.h so I took my foot off the gas then I tried it again and it did it again then the car started to loose power and I pulled over and the car stalled it wouldn’t start right away then 5 minutes later I started it and was able to get home so please could you tell me what it could be? thanks

John Rawson says:

changed EGR, re-did all the gaskets and its running good. Changed CPS as well the other day with MUCH IMPROVMENT. Thanks!

syyenergy7 says:

It does have an ASD but it could be something else. Can you read the codes? It could be the PCM itself. Or simply a broken wire. That is one reason I recommended replugging all the harnesses and connectors in the engine bay. That actually sometimes works and you go nuts trying to trace something down otherwise.

charlene north says:

2000 sebring convertible. changed the CPS, Distributor, plugs, wires and still no spark. getting fuel, but no spark. doesn’t have a ASD.

richard armour says:

thank you for your help. I will let you know what happens.

syyenergy7 says:

The CPS is the most likely thing. When the CPS is failing heat can make it go out. Spray cold air on it and see if it starts right up. You can use the cold air for cleaning computers. Heat kills electrical components and that sounds like the CPS starting to fail.

richard armour says:

when it cuts out and i crank it there is no spark i forgot to put this in the first e-mail.

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