Ignition Coil in Gen I distributor, Chrysler Sebring convertible. 1996-2000 Change the IGNITION COIL.www.rockauto.com has STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # UF30…
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, Ignition Coil in distributor
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1999, Chrysler, Coil, convertible, Distributor, ignition, Sebring
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I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebring convertible. I had the starter checked they
said it was good. The battery was disconnected so no computer code
readings. I replaced the distributer,(bought online/ parts gallery). turns
out the starter was bad I replaced the starter. Now the car turns over but
seems out of time. The top dead center was checked twice. yet rotor button
still pointed I also tried putting the old distibuter back in but does the
same thing. I did originally mark dist. base and rotor button, yet
keyways not mesh and point to number one dist.cap plug. There is a sort of
step down foot on one side of the distibuter keyway, so I didn’t? think it
was possible to get it 180 degrees out. starting from scratch again. Any
suggestions would be greatly welcomed.
I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, Friday it died a few times idle
and going down road. Pushed into Kroger parking lot 30 miles from home.
Cranks, no run. Saturday morning with tools, sprayed starting fluid into
intake, no run. Checked spark, no spark. Checked all fuses, relays, all
fine. Sprayed silicone on dist cap, no helpl While cranking a few hits but
no go. Sunday morning took trailer to pick it up. Tilted trailer, tried
car. Started fine like a summer day, no missing, backed it off trailer. At
home started and drove off trailer. No problems. What should I replace??
Another 2000 JXi here – no spark. The car has 155,000 miles on it, and the
ignition failed soon on the heels of a valve cover gasket job (how hard
could that be? sounds familiar? HA!!!).
So now there is no spark at all, after a short test drive.
Crank sensor and cam sensor signals scope out fine. B+ from the (new) ASD
relay is feeding the coil’s high side just fine. All the grounds are good,
good battery, etc. I’m thinking it’s the ignition coil.
My question to you is: have you ever measured the resistance of the
ignition coil’s secondary winding? The book (Mitchell) calls for 12,500 to
18,000 ohms out of circuit, but I am reading only 7,000 ohms – verified
with two different meters. I suspect some shorted turns in the coil are
pulling it down, but I fear to drop $75 on a coil, only to discover the
book specs were wrong – and then wind up buying a whole new distributor as
well… the ignitor having been the real issue all along.
Had I not already purchased a new (Standard) cap and rotor (and NGK wires),
I would be less reluctant to shotgun the whole distributor. I’m hoping
it’s only the coil, but if 7,000 ohms turns out to be a normal reading,
then I’ll bite the bullet (“Cardone Select” distributor, if so – confident
with your endorsement).
Your videos have helped me a great deal with this car, and I am hoping you
can shed some light with some actually-measured known-good coil specs. If
not, thanks anyway for all of your help so far.
thanks, i just replaced the valve cover gaskets on a 2000 jxi, they was
bad! oil around the spark plugs and all. but i fixed all of that, new
parts. and it will not start now. so now in looking towards the distributor
thinking if i replace the ignition coil and the crank position sensor i may
be fine. but man im not a pro like you, your awsome so i would really love
your opinion and advice on this. and thanks for the tips on this car!
My Step sister has a 96 LXI and the wipers will not shut off unless you
unplug the relay. Some say it is the wiper motor neutral switch, others say
it is the multi-switch on the column. Have you heard of this?
@JuLew3105 Ha, I cursed this car plenty too, but it’s a Convertible & I
like convertibles. I did get the $40 air intake and I’m using it now. It
seems worthwhile. Iridium sparkplugs are likely worth it also. Both those
items are inexpensive and should provide some benefit.
Ah hell man, could you tell me which part is the actual cam position
sensor? I have to switch out the cam position sensor because I’m getting
misfires under load on the 65+ highway. No codes at all. I’ve replaced the
crankshaft position sensor, and it had no effect, so now I’m going after
the camshaft position sensor. Some reason I thought this was about
replacing the cam position sensor, now I realize it’s actually the ignition
coil that I just went and got from the salvage yard.
I’d change the relay first. It’s a very cheap part. Never heard of a wiper
motor neutral switch. Sometime the multifunction switch breaks an it is
easy to change. I have a video on the multifunction switch. But I would try
the relay first. I have doubts the multifunction switch is the problem. It
could also be in the BCM. watch?v=_qJA_j435bU
I really should have asked what symptoms existed that made you switch out
the ignition coil. I’m having some problems locating an issue that only
begins happening while on the highway. My issue is basically it started
jerking a lot in the engine while on the highway, also while idling in
drive at stop lights. Then it stopped happening and now it misfires like
crazy and flashes the CEL anytime it’s taken on the highway, it continues
doing this until I reset it. Thanks for these vids dude!
It could be a sticking EGR valve. If the car drives fine when cold and acts
up at times when warmed up that could be the problem. Also check the two
hose on the EGR (especially the thin one) and the ground wire. I have a
video on the EGR. That thing can cause weird driving problems.
Your video was rather helpful, thanks. However my specific problem is that
someone has cut the 6 point harness that plaugs into the distributor and I
can see your book listing the colors order in that harness but I can not
actualy read it. Would you be so kind as to list those for me? Thanks
There is no cam position sensor. More typically it is the distributor that
is the problem (or ignition coil in the distributor). The crank position
sensor (CPS) is also a common fail point. There is no cam position sensor.
Sometimes the ignition coil in the distributor is called a “cam position
sensor”. I heard people refer to it as such also. But the term is “ignition
coil”.
Yes, 1 – BK/LB Sensor Ground 2 – OR 8 Volt Supply 3 – TN/YL Camshaft
Position Sensor Signal 4 – not used 5 – BK Ground 6 – BK/GR Ignition Coil
No. 1 Driver
@syyenergy7 Lol, you are a very brave man sir! I constantly get customers
cursing Chrysler at my Job, Im having a hard time getting rid of it for
that reason… I was thinking about putting an air intake on there for gas
mileage, its only $40 on ebay what;s your opinion? and also any other ways
to improve fuel economy? I got plugs, wires, and dizzy. And some other tune
ups (thanks to your video) any advice will be much appreciated.
@JuLew3105 I agree. I like the 1996-2000 Chrysler Convertibles. I only make
these vids so people can see a few tricks to keep the raptops running good
and for low cost. The Cardone Select (which is a new one and fully tested
to conform to OEM) is a good choice at about $255 for a replacement.
Despite them making various distributors I think that Cardone works in all
cases. Pretty certain. Mechanically, there is a lot of stuff I don’t like
on this car but I like that it’s a Convertible.
Chrysler is so stupid, they made 3 different distributors for the same car.
I had to get mine replaced since it would not start and it cost me damn
near $700.