1999 Chrysler Sebring convertible CPS(crank position sensor) & Distributor replacement. Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 Convertible, Repair, Troubleshooting http:/…
1999 Chrysler Sebring convertible CPS {crank position sensor} & Distributor
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1999, Chrysler, convertible, Crank, Distributor, position, Sebring, Sensor
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The misfires I would say are most likely the issue. Get a new cardone
distributor unlike the reman I got. I have had to do the job 2x so the
difference in money was money wasted. The new ones I think come with a new
cap as well. I did the spark plugs and wires while I was at it. It takes
about 2 hrs to do the job
hi rick lord .i have the same problem on my sebring .any help or sugestions
you can give …thanks
I will search for that size to see if it fit tomorrow. Thanks I hope that
fits…my local pick and pull is closed on Sundays.
I don’t know. If no codes, I doubt it would be the PCM.
The head on the bolt is 10 mm. That part I know. It is likely coarse thread
also. I would guess about 20 mm long. That may do it. Just be careful no to
cross-thread if that is wrong, but that likely is the size. Go to a
hardware store and get a standard grade 5 metric bolt with a 10 mm head
(socket size), coarse thread and 20 mm long. That may work.
Hate to keep bugging you on this but thus far, You have been a awesome
help. I’m learning and yet get things done. I go to get on the highway
sometimes, and I gotta gun it get ran over…when I do the meter needle
flat lines when I punch it. I know its not supposed to do that…not in
that manner. it jumps from around 45 mph to the stop needle…heard that
might be a electrical short…thoughts?
Well, the sensor I got was OEM (PC105) and dealer informed me it was
correct size/part. I still do not have the bolt. I was able to use a
similar bolt but I am trying to avoid going to Chrysler and paying 90 bucks
for them to tell me I need yet another sensor/bolt (diagnostics) and run me
for over 200 (80 for the sensor and labor). I put the sensor in last time
myself in less than 20 min. I’m gonna try to go to a U-pull-it yard this
week to see if I can at least get the bolt.
Well the local stores had no new versions so I had to put in another
remanufactured cardone distributors from advance auto. The car is running
great, so far no misfires. Hoping that maybe that first was a lemon and
this one is great. I’d suggest anyone doing this repair on the distributor
get the new one as the video says as the rework of dealing with a defect is
time and money lost. thanks again for the video, this distributor is quite
a demon on these cars
Well I bought and installed a cardone distributor but this one was
remanufactured…. new cps, new wires, plugs and replaced the EGR. The car
was night and day better but here I am 3 months later with the same
misfire, it’s most pronounced at idle with the a/c on. I’m guessing the
distributor being reman is defective. Now I’ll be back in there for a 2nd
round….I’m going to ask advance auto to get the new one and pay the
difference. What a pain in the rear
Just wanted to say thanks for the info – My car was stalling frequently
(getting worse and worse – no longer drivable). Found that the crank
position sensor can cause the problem (already replaced the fuel pump, fuel
filter, fuel pump relay, automatic shutdown relay, …). Anyway, The
information in your video was very helpful in finding and getting to the
crank position relay (actually found it was a little easier to get at the
bolt from the left wheel well). Thanks again!
I’ve followed all of your videos for a while and while and you’ve helped
out alot between your responses to my comments and videos thus far. I just
changed my CPS with no issues getting to the sensor, revoming and
installing a new one. The only problem I have is when I removed the old
sensor the bolt holding ti in place was missing. This is most likely the
reason why it was giving me errors codes and issues. I need a replacement
bolt, and I dont know what size/thread/length I need. Help?
Also got another problem thats intermittent. Battery light comes on
randomly. NO probs starting, brand new battery. No issues with dimming
lights or losing lights randomly like I have seen posted in various forums.
some point to the altenator, and some point to PCM. one I’m going to check
on today will be the wiring closest to the manifold, 2 wires that get bare
and short out some times. Thoughts?
I used Chrysler dealer CPS. Many times the aftermarket CPS’s can be qwerky.
I heard that from others and found that out also first-hand. So I bought
the CPS that was OEM factory part.
You might want to run a cheap volt gauge while you use the car and see if
the volt gauge needle moves some when the alternator light comes on. If it
does, then you do have a problem somewhere. Also sometimes the alternators,
even though charging well, can start to put out a “weird” wave ad create
havoc. That is rare. That can also create problems will smooth running
then. If the volt gauge stays steady when the alt light comes on, assume
maybe the gauge cluster? bad solder?
Maybe the hole has some corrosion. Just a little light sanding with some
WD40 should work. The paper gasket is simple. You could take a Post-it note
and make one. Cut it out of the part that is sticky and stick it on the end
of the cps.
hi syynergy7, i just bought a 99 jxi 2 days ago and this car runs
amazing.while driving was running great then watched the rpm drop then went
back to normal then dropped again then died ,wouldnt start back up waited a
hour and disconnected the battery then hooked it back up started up fine
drove it about 15 miles and it did it again (sputter for a few seconds then
died no start)so this time i disconnected the battery waited few mins
started up and flew home..does this sound like cps or dist???
well i went and bought a brand new complete distributor and cps and egr
tube gaskets this after noon and just got done ..so far so good been
outside running in 100 degree weather for a hour n half n hasnt tried to
die or anything…i guess ill drive it in the morning …
Is this the same for the LXi model?
It still could be the egr. There are two vacuum lines on the egr. The small
thin vacuum line that goes from the egr to the back of the intake manifold
can break or the elbow fitting on that line can leak. A vacuum leak there
will affect drivability. Also check the egr ground wire.
If the distributor is stuck, just Carefully, tap and pry the housing. Watch
when you reinstall it. It lines up to slid in all the way. Some people
tighten the bolts when it’s not seated all the way and mess it up. Make
sure it is lined up and seated all the way in first, before tightening the
bolts.
Thanks for sharing this video Syyenergy7. I got a question regarding the
CPS on the 1999 Sebring JXI, what is the average life you got in the this
sensor? I just changed mine, and tomorrow I will instal a new Cardone
Select Distributor, just received it in the mail…
i have a chrysler jxi 2000. it was running fine ,went to doctors
appointment and now it wont start.it turns but wont fire up.HELPP
It should not be tight. There must be corrosion where the CPS slide
through. Aluminum can corrode also. Just clean it up with some emery.
You did a lot in a short amount of time. The distributor and/or CPS can be
tough to diagnose since often they are only “halfway broke” and thus will
not throw a code.
hey syyenergy i have an issue with my 2000 jxi convertible i just bought 2
weeks ago, when i bought it it would take like 2 to 3 times of turning the
key for it to start it gradually got worse now it wont start at all. oh i
did replace one fuel injector brfor this problem that was the only code i
got I did get it started twice first with starter fluid in the carb and gas
.drove it around block to see if fuel stayed pumping well it kept running,
then parked it still no start. it doesnt keep
It may be dry ball joints or other suspension parts or rubber bushing. The
OEM suspension does not have grease fittings but there is a way to grease
all components with a needle adapter on the end of a grease gun. Try
shaking the car up and down while parked and listen for the exact source.
It may be best to use two people. One to rock the car and the other to
pinpoint the source of the squeak.
thats exactly what happend to mine only it was like over night and then i
went to move it and it turns over but wont start, i had my mechanic look at
it and he said that its the crank shaft that went out. Its about a 60$ part
at O’riellys.
i need help with crank shaft sen…. i had a guy try to take one out and it
broke off i need help to get the rest out of the car can anyone help me on
how to get it rest out
It’s the same 2.5 Mitsubishi engine. The MAP sensor is different but it is
the same engine.
Those are the heater hoses. They are on with a “quick disconnect” that
requires a special tool. You do not need to remove the heater hoses to
remove the CPS. Use a short swivel heal ratchet with a 6 in extension and a
10 mm socket.
Yes, same part #
CPS usually dies when the valve cover gasket starts leaking and oil is
pooling in the spark plug bores. There’s an error code for it.
syyenergy7, I just replaced the CPS on a 99 Chrysler Sebring LXI and still
have a crank but no start situation. i have checked all fuses and know that
the fuel pump is working because I pulled the back seat up and checked. My
wife was driving it and she said she was at a drive thru window and the
vehicle just sputtered and died. I naturally thought it was the CPS after
checking the fuses. What is your opinion? Distributor? Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks
This video was very helpful, thanks so much
@bajacapt Most of the CPS’s last for many years, especially the OEM ones.
i have a 98 sebring convertible and the trouble i’m having is that above my
cps there’s 2 hoses that appear to be crimped on. i can’t figure out how to
remove them and they are getting in the way. i don’t see them in this
video. do youknow what i’m talking about?
The paper “spacer” is very thin and it is already on the CPS itself. It
rubs off as soon as the car is started.
The positive terminal on the battery is getting hot? I would first
thoroughly clean that connection. And also check the car for a battery draw
while it is sitting with everything off. The CPS can cause rough running or
a no start condition. Not something like a gradual slowdown.
You need an open end wrench to get off one of the distributor mounting
bolts. I take off the upper intake to remove the distributor. Some people
leave the intake in but it only takes me 15 minutes to take off the upper
intake and then there is a lot more room to work. I think it takes less
time overall that way.
I took the intake off, I had an open end ratchet wrench on the back bolt
on the distributor but couldn’t get it free. I agree the intake is really
the right way to go, once I got it off the distributor bolt was simple.
Yea it only cranks over for a split second then stops, but i’m confused as
to why it started by putting gas in the carb?
The distributor is actually a more common problem than the CPS. I like the
Cardone Select New distributor since the price is low but the quality is
very high. If you have no spark, most often the culprit is the distributor
or the CPS. I also have a video on changing out the ignition coil in the
distributor. That is less money but I would recommend changing the whole
distributor. Cardone Select New is the best one and much lower price than
the dealer.
The fast things I do first is give it a shot of starting fluid and see it
it fires up. Then you know it may be the fuel pump. But usually the most
common culprits are the distributor and /or CPS. Check it for spark and
also check it for codes.
What kinda distributor cap do you use? I found a genuine mitsubishi one for
$20 i think i’m gonna buy it.
Is the engine disassembly also the same?
Question on the CPS: It took me a good 45 minutes of prying and wedging it
to get out… then I thought I was stuck on the back engine/trans block
behind it. I was able to finally wiggle it out.Then I go and try and
install the new one. It’s just as crazy going in. Very tight, I tried lube,
no help. Maybe 1/4″ in and had to back it out in fear it would not go in
all the way. that paper tip was lost when i pulled it out, Now I’m trying
to figure out do I dremel the hole and makeshift gaskt
ok co ill try that and see what happens i have some good spary to get it
some lube on it…. ill let you know on how it goes
thanks for the fast reply, should this sensor just slide in with just
minimal force? I would think with the position of the gasket you would want
to go in smooth. This thing is so tight it’s ridiculous
I have a 1999 Chrysler jxi. It was missing at low rpms, shook the car
pretty aggressively and I thought it might be the egr, so I replaced it.
Now the car has an ugly gurgling sound through all rpms and has trouble
accelerating. Vacuum lines seem to be taking in air fine. Any suggestions?
Very nicely done! Helped me tremendously. On my 2000 Chr Sebring Conv, the
trans control module had three bolts holding it in — one on the bottom
that yours did not appear to have. My CPS was stuck. I used tons of PB
Blaster over 3 days every 8 hrs. I used a 16″ flat head and a mallet to
break the bond between the tab on the CPS and the block. Then used medium
vise grips to clamp it and pried against the vise grips while twisting.
Took about an hr but it came out. Thanks!!!!!!