How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine. Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 …
How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine. Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 …
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My belt broke, so I took the heads off, had them all rebuilt. Got the heads
back on the car now. And can’t get the cam marks lined up because the valve
spring tension the cam won’t stay where I need it too it goes down on like
the next cam lobe, if that makes sense
How did you get the PS bracket to move. mine wont budge, ive taken ever
bolt i can find off. (two at the top, one on the bottom)
Even the cam is not supposed to move over 4 notches, in practice the cam
sometimes slips more by mistake when trying to line up everything. It does
not seem to hurt anything. Maybe because nothing is forced. I’ve had the
same thing happen & heard of others that did. It didn’t hurt anything.
Maybe because nothing was forced. Otherwise it would damage the engine.
I use a crowbar on the tensioner to hold the tension in a little tighter as
a tighten everything up. The little hole in the tension does not have to be
perfectly lined up when you are done but it should be close. The idea is ot
to have too much tension but to leave enough room for the tensioner to take
up the slack as the belt stretches. Th valve timing does have to exact. Eve
one tooth off with give you crazy problems in how the engine runs.
i ended up doing cam seals etc while i had it off. Im hoping i dont have to
do this job for a long time
Shit….how do I get the rear cam seal out
hey I just got done working on a 1998 Chrysler cirrus everything looks the
same from your videos and they were very helpful by the way. I have a
question. once I took the timing belt off the right cam jumped about a
quarter of an inch then like a jackass I turned it with a socket wrench to
try and line up the marks I turned it both ways clock wise and counter
clock wise a couple times to try and line up the marks did I damage
anything and how do I line up the marks if im not supposed to turn it
@MrNoizyToyz The belt needs to be taunt and when you pull out the pin on
the tensioner it should basically not move or move very slightly. In other
words the tensioner will have enough travel left to keep the belt tight as
it stretches over time.
I appreciate the prompt response . It wouldn’t be because the timing belt
may be off a bit ? I’m guessing the car wouldn’t run at all if the timing
belt were off tho . I brought the car to a mechanic when it was over
heating , and they did say it was the water pump , and now that it’s
replaced…I just don’t understand lol . I will def. check out what you
just said , but do you think it could be anything else ?
No problem. Glad it helped 🙂
Yep. Actually leave one bolt in the bracket and swing it out of the way.
The bolts are 15 mm and they are on there Tight. The power steering bracket
is the worst part of this job.
dam that powersteering bracket !!! i cant get the back cover off…should i
take the power steering bracket off???
The fastest simple things to check are spark & fuel. Use some starting
fluid and see if it starts briefly. You can also buy a very inexpensive
spark tester ad check to see if you have spark while cranking the engine.
Or just pull off a plug and ground it & see if it has spark. You may want
to check that all the connections are on the various sensors on the upper
intake manifold. Take a look at my sparkplug change video to make sure
everything is connected.
hey brother,great video very informative,but the only thing i wish you
showed was the process of removing the crank pully,that would have saved
alot of time messing with the roller pin,great video thank you
As a rule…when you are doing any repair work on you engine involving
water pumps, timing belts, idler pulleys, they say you should always
replace them (A kit) along with the crank seal and cam seals…that way
it’s all new and you wont have to tear it apart just for one item if it
fails in the near future…repair shops are expensive so it should “all” be
replaced as long as it’s apart…”make it a one time job”
As long as the marks did not go that far off, then the valves would have
stayed clear of the pistons. You may be ok. May sure everything is lined up
perfectly. Check it a few times. I personally liked cutting the oval hole
in the rear upper timing cover so I can check the marks without pulling
everything apart. That may come in handy someday.
True 🙂 Mechanics are very much under-appreciated.
It could be the water inlet pipe. I have a video on that. I had to change
that too. It had a hairline crack. The water pipe from the water pump to
the water manifold can corrode after a while. If the engine valley is
filled with water that may be the problem. It’s hard to judge with out
actually seeing. Use a very strong floodlight to look at all areas
carefully
how do I line up the marks if I’m not supposed to turn it tho n how do I do
a compression check
@MrNoizyToyz You need to compress the tensioner and put the pin in it
before you install it again. It requires a lot of force to compress the
tensioner. I used a valve spring compressor or a large C-clamp. After you
install the tensioner, set the tension on the belt. There is actually a
special tool for this but I don’t use one. I can usually get torque
settings very close by hand.
It prys out after you take off the cam sprocket. I would leave it in place
if it is not leaking.
Got it out….and installed new ones….everything going back
together….im alittle weary of the timing though…marrks
good…rotate…. Still good…but the tensioner pin doesent go back
in….motor already spun
Thanks so much for your help! Ill let you know how it goes. Id hate to see
this car go
I got it all back together today and its running perfect:) I used the crow
bar method too and got the tention perfect to where i can install pin in
and out on the tentioner after doing multiple turns on the timing belt by
hand. I appreciate your response back and im just glad i didn’t hit valves
when it sprang forwards on its own on me when installing new belt. The
hardest part about this job is that dang power steering bracket. Thanks for
having a great reference on here to see. Great Video:)
what if I took the tensioner off and didnt put a pin in it,I went ahead of
myself
Great video! Very informative. I wish it would have shown how to align the
timing marks if the valve timing wasn’t achieved because the exhaust cam
moved after the belt came off. Mine moved like an entire half turn and I’m
not sure if it was clockwise or counter-clockwise when it moved. So I’m
searching on how to find TDC and achieve correct valve timing as not to
ruin the engine. This engine IS an INTERFERENCE engine.
If it jumped just due to the valve spring tension, I did not do damage. If
it is forced it could do damage.
This seems a whole lot harder to do than filling a tooth or doing a root
canal; mechanics should have college degrees – they work very hard and
under bad conditions. Good video; I’m gonna let my mechanic replace mine
though, I have no where to do this job.
For just a few dollars more, and a good piece of mind, you can replace that
tenioner and idler bearing/pulley. The only timing belt job that ever came
back to bite me was do to that idler bearing. Now, I always replace them
both. If I; not mistaken the Mazda V6 and the Subaru motors have that same
type tenioner. Just some food for thought
ALSO the rear power steering pump bolts behind the intake might be removed
without taking the intake off. I took mine off as per this video. I watched
another video on Youtube and they said they lowered the engine some after
removing the motor mount to get to the rear PS pump bolts.That kind of
makes sense too. But I haven’t tried it. The motor mount comes off anyhow
for this project.
Hey quick question for ya. Im doing the timing belt and tentioner . Anyways
when i was putting the belt on my right cam (rear one towards firewall)
jumped forwards a 1/4 turn and i was wanting to know if you think this
caused valve damage? Also i am having problems with getting tention
correct? all my marks are lined up and i do my turns on the crank and my
tentioner hole wont line up like yours is. I only feel compression when
turning it so i know im not hitting valves. I need help here bad
I removed sp bolts without removing anything in the car, nothing at all..
secret is to use deep socket with a short (3inch) extension and that will
do the job.. trust me.. i done it plenty of times on many sebrings and
eclipses.
I am having issues removing the power steering belt and alternator belt.
especially retightening it. any help is appreciated.
If you turned it with wrench fully around I’m pretty sure you damaged the
valves. The only way to tell is to do a compression check after you have
the timing belt on. I know the cam sprockets can move quite a bit without
it doing damage. Like in the case the cam sprocket moved under the valve
spring pressure. But if you turn something with a wrench a full turn, then
I think you bent a valve or two. Only way to tell is with a compression
test.
I replaced them.
When I took mine apart, the timing marks were a bit off but it always ran
fine. I think the belt may have slipped wen I was taking off the harmonic
balancer pulley becuz I put a wrench on the bolt for the front cam pulley
to try and keep evetything from spinning wen I was trying to loosen the
bolt from the balancer (Bad idea I know that now) it should be fine as long
as all the marks are lined up wen the new belt is on right?
You should replace the timing belt while you are doing the water pump. Yes.