How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine. Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 …
How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine. Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 …
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Ok that makes sense, I still wasn’t able to move that bracket with three
bolts off. Lol
Only 2 bolts of the top of the bracket. I thought there were 4 bolts total
in the bracket.
There’s three bolts all together?
One of the top power steering bracket bolts stays in but loose. That would
be the bolt toward the passenger fender that stays in loose. Then you can
swing the bracket up and that leaves room to take the upper timing over
off. If you notice I cut a slot (hole) in the rear upper timing cover in
case I need to check the valve timing someday. This way I don’t need to
take much off to check if all three timing marks are lined up.
Good news I got it off, it’s about time, I got the swivel head ratchet and
that did the trick, thanks again, my next thing thought is after you got
those bolts out of that bracket how did you get it to slide back to get the
timing belt cover off? The power steering bolts are all loose and the belt
is off!
I’ll check that out thanks!
Ya sadly it’s still giving me a run for my money, I couldn’t find a swivel
head ratchet so I tried using a swivel u-join on my air ratchet and it
almost worked, maybe you could email me a photo of what exactly what you
used! That would be helpful Thanks email is gypsyssun@yahoo.com
On Amazon (dot) com just search “swivel head ratchet”. That is what I used
but that is not the only thing that works. I did this job on a few Sebrings
and I know those two top bolts of the power steering pump brackets are
difficult and everyone bitches at them. Use a mirror and light so you can
see exactly where they are. That will help, so you can see exactly what you
have to do. The real problem is that they are on super tight from the
factory. Everyone hates this part of this job.
I think the water pump & timing belt is supposed to be 6 hours labor. A lot
of mechanics find this car hard to work on. One thing that is not well
known is that this bigger car is the same weight as an Eclipse. A 3.0
Eclipse engine can fit easy. They should have used that one instead.
Basically the same block. Simple swap.
Ok where u able to get a pipe on the other end of the ratchet for added
leverage?
Ya I see, it’s just the middle one that’s giving me a problem, on a ruff
average how long does a change of a water pump take. I’m an experienced
mechanic , but never worked on these vehicles? Just wondering, hey thanks
for your help and videos, they really help’
I put a deep socket on the end and a short extension. This is the worst
part of this job. Pretty much everyone has a problem with these bolts. Plus
they are on there very tight from the factory.
Hey syyenrgy7 how exactly did you get the bolts of on the back of the motor
that holds the power steering pump bracket in place? My hands are getting
cut up lol. This is a bear!!!
15 mm socket with a swivel head ratchet. I had to take off the upper intake
manifold to get at the top bolts. One bolt comes out and the other one is
loosened. Then you can swing the power steering pump bracket out of the way
to take off the upper rear timing cover.
Oh I see what you did from a past comment thank you!!
You loosen the idler pulley. You don’t have to take it off.
Yes, it fixed the leak. The weep hole for the water pump runs into the
valley of the motor under the fuel rails and water pipe.
cool thank you a lot!! i got everything off now , im taking a short break
and iim going to finally finish this job. thank you again! great videos
I assume you changed the CPS when you say you changed the “sensor below the
distributor”. First try giving it a shot of starting fluid just to make
sure it is not fuel related. Also replug in all connections. Everything,
all sensors, the PCM and everything. Sometimes these cars do wacky things
because something is not making good contact. Often that could be why there
is an intermittent problem. Check for codes If no codes and still no spark,
get an OEM CPS & install w’ the right gap.
Definitely change out the plugs if they were oily. I’d try a little
starting fluid too. That could help it start even if there is a borderline
problem.
What did you use to get the 15mm bolts in the back? air?
what did you use? its stressing me out that i cant seem to get em
Hey Torolan, I am having the exact problem like you as my rotor is pointing
to the #6 spark plug. I want to know if you did fix your car so you can
help me to point the rotor to the # 1 spark plug.
If everything is lined up right it should be fine. Make sure your timing
marks are perfect. The distributor only goes in one way and same with the
rotor. The cap has all the wires marked on it so double check that all the
wires are on correctly.
ok one more thing. which pulley do i remove to get the timing belt off?
Hello sir, help is needed here I can’t get my rotor to point to #1 sprk
plug, I set the timing to compression on the #1 piston on this 2.5L jxi
after that the rotor is pointing to #6. This has me going crazy…..
Thank You I think I am down to the distributor and a new timing belt. Your
videos are great – thankls for your help.
Having a problem getting the ps pump back in!
The pump itself? It should have been just swung out of the way. But use a
lot of light and take your time. It’s hard to see in that cramped area.
I’ll often use a few lights. I like to clean everything also with the hot
water hooked up to the pressure washer. It makes it a lot easy to do things
( in my mind) when you are working in a clean area. And yes, the dam
Sebring is pretty hard to work on. Most will say that, for sure.
Yes, the 15 mm power steering bolts are an extreme bitch (they are on very
tight from the factory). I used a small swivel-head ratchet and put an
extension on the handle to get more leverage. I used the small swivel head
ratchet because it is hard to get in there and put put a deep socket and an
extension on the handle to give me as much leverage as possible. Yes, it is
a “bitch”. Most people hate loosening those 15 mm power steering bracket
bolts. I dread it too.
Hello syyenergy7 I have been working on my 2000 sebring converible for
months – what were your stmptoms when you knew the timing belt jumped? I
have had a tune up, replaced the IAC valve, ECM, EGR, Crankshaft Sensor and
the car still bogs out and stalls after stopping at red lights.. Any help
would be greatly appreciated – thx
did it fix the leak? my leak was running from it under the fuel rail
i have a 2000 chrysler sebring that wont start. i changed the distributor
worked for one day and the next day it wouldn’t turn on(read second comment
:/
e down. then i changed a wire chip that connects to the distributor worked
for a couple of days then it broke down, and then i changed a sensor that
goes near the bottom of the distributor’ i think. again the car worked for
one day then it broke down. sorry i cant be more accurate im no mechanic
but please help by telling me posible problems that could be interfering
because the car cranks but wont start.
The symptoms were often different. At times the car ran fine but it would
also run rough and also hesitate. The computer kept trying to compensate
for the valve timing being off, so it displayed a number of symptoms. I cut
and oval window in the rear upper timing cover so if I ever have to check
the valve timing in the future, that will make it a lot easier to do so.
No but they were on very tight.
my friend has a 99 sebring and her mom overfilled the oil and the car
stopped. I drained the oil and added the right amount but the plugs were
completely covered. Now it turns over but won’t start. Any suggestions?
Please. there is spark and you can smell the fuel when trying to start it.