For the 1996 -2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible the first thing to check when diagnosing various problems might be to check all the fuses (fuzes) and relays….
1996-2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible-Relays & Fuses (Fuzes)
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james wolfe:
The voltage regulator is part of the PCM. If you have a slow drain on the
battery overnight, the problem is a parasitic draw.
Battery Parasitic Draw check, for Chrysler Sebring & other makes
Battery Parasitic Draw check, for Chrysler Sebring & other makes
Can you tell me where the voltage regulator is located on my Moms 1998
Chrysler sebring convertible? Is it in the pcm or perhaps mounted
externally. The battery and alternator are both new, but the battery keeps
slowly draining.
i have a 98′ chrylser sebring conv. having fuel pump problems….what is
the cheapest route to go
Last night I revved my 98 Sebring lxi, before shutting it off. Four hours
later it wouldn’t start and still won’t, do you think it could be the asd
relay, or could stay flooded out that long?
ABS light remains lit. Looks like the 20amp and 40amp fuses look ok (I
switched the 20 amp with seat motor to make sure fuse was good) Any way to
test ABS control module before buying a costly replacement part
have you ever ran into the problem where the car idles higher than it
should? my 99 sebring idles around 1 1/2 while in park.
Do you know which hose is the inlet heater core hose? I have one on the
left and one on the right. How do I tell which is the inlet hose?
Cool. I already had the radiator replaced when it started running hot this
summer so now we’ll try flushing the heater core before we move to replace
it. Let’s hope flushing it works though. Thanks.
So you wouldn’t recommend flushing the heater core system before replacing
it?
How do I find out which one is the inlet heater hose?
I have a 1998 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The air works but does not heat
when switched to the heater function. The blend door has been checked and
is open but still nothing but cool air comes out. What could be the problem
with the heat?
Oops. Just read the rest of your comment about flushing it but I’m not sure
which hose of the two is the correct heater core hose to disconnect try the
reverse flush. There is one on the left and one on the right. Where are
your videos located?
Just swap in another fuse or check it with an ohmmeter. If the starter fuse
keeps blowing, then the starter is drawing too many amps and probably need
to be replaced. Remember also that your lights can work ok with a low
battery. Check the battery voltage at rest. A full charge is 12.7 volts at
rest. It needs about 12.1 volts to crank over the car. So if it is at 11
volts your lights can work and it will not start.
It could be the ignition switch. Do the lights dim when you turn the key to
start?
car lost power when some power and would sputter when it hit 40 mph up
hill. Now after a heavy rain now it wont start. I can hear the fuel pump
kick on and checked all relays. Im guessing distributor and plugs and wires
I have put 25000 miles on it without changing them. Also the front spark
plug tubes seamed to have a small amount of oil at the bottom. Any thoughts
on this and how much it would be to replace. Thank you so much
It’s probably the nozzles themselves. They need to be cleaned with a small
needle. Also a small needle is how they are aimed/adjusted to spray the
windshield properly.
You may not have seated the wire all the way on the plug. If that is not
the case then their is something wrong with the end of the wire and the
wire needs to be replaced.
Where is the fuse
I’ll try this tomorrow when I get the chance to fiddle with it. Thankfully
we didn’t have it on the road yet for the summer. Who knows, I may end up
towing my wife in it top down with my GXP to give her the convertible
experience! Thanks for the help – I’ll let everyone know what happens.
I really appreciate you posting these videos. I am having a problem with
the ignition. I turn the car off, but it keeps running for a few minutes.
The oil change just got done but the oil light stays on. The check engine
light is now one but every time we do a diagnostic, the codes change. Have
you run into this?
Idk, I’ll look at the wiring diagrams and get back to you later. You
probably need a dealer service manual with all the wiring diagrams to find
the trouble. It could be in the BCM also (body control module). Right now I
am thinking the BCM due to there being several problems at once.
Got it……..thanks
I don’t know what they are talking about when they say there is another 40
amp fuze for the seats under the hood. I would suspect the switch itself
being the problem. Get a can of electromotive cleaner (Not WD 40) and clean
out the seat switches real good. Of course check for power. When a car sits
a while any of the switches can mess up. Multifunction switch, ignition
switch, power window switches etc.
At least check the simple things first. Like the fuze and also change the
relay. I actually bought a used switch for $3 off off ebay. But the problem
has to be traced. Start with the fuze and the top relay first. I could be a
bad motor. You would have to trace it down. More often it is something
small like a fuze, relay or dirt in the switch. (Or bad wire).
1997 Chrysler Sebring JXI Convertible. My check engine light is on and need
to get the codes, but The #5 fuse stays blown. No Radio,, No door Locks, no
interior lights.. Any place to start checking???
I have 2 problems, First let me say I have a 1996 convertible sebring JXI
1. The car dies off and on but usually after a minute or so it will start
back up. I’ve been told it is the cranshaft sensor and can that be fixed
with out getting a new sensor? and 2. recently my amp under my passenger
seat got soaked with water and shorted out and now the front speakers do
not work yet the back ones do, is there a way I can fix this without buying
a new amp?
Hello have a problem with 2000 Sebring convertible cranks over will not run
replaced crankshaft sensor,plugs,distributor timing belt and it still will
not run and ideas would be great..it has spark and fuel
2000 JXI: Replacement starter will not spin/engage. Starter motor was
tested on bench and spins ok. When key is turned to start, solenoid plunges
but starter does not energize. Would this not indicate starter relay is ok?
Is there something else in the high current path to starter that could be
blown? Last starter motor was seized and would have caused high current to
blow something I’m sure but schematics don’t show anything between battery
and starter motor. HELP!!
for the idiots who dont know its called a OWNERS MANUAL FOR A REASON!
I have a real problem with my 2000 dodge stratus and not enough space to
rite on hear please EMail me at datduderab@gmail.com or tell me how i can
msg you thanks and my name is William.
Just search “Sebring” on my channel and the vids pop up. I also have a
playlist with them.
It could be a slight short in the multifunction switch, that controls the
headlights and wipers. I did have to replace mine. I do have a video on
that. It is a pretty simple thing to change and available on the
aftermarket. Autozone even stocks it.
Whats the FUse for the alarm? Please respond
There are 2 motors in each seat, so nothing is working you could assume
that you may not be getting power to the seat. One of the connectors under
the seat has a red and black wire. Red for power an black for ground. Check
those. The power seat are not wired though the BCM (Body Control Module) so
the BCM would not be the cause. Also check that fuze you replaced with an
ohm meter to make sure it did not blow again. If that happened then you
have a short someplace.
I usually get stuff from RockAuto (dot) com
thanks for your prompt response. I’m supposed to be replacing a fuel pump
on a 2000 sebring today and just wanted to check everything else first
hopefully save the customer some money.
checked the computer and it shows to be fine..tried starting fluid lol
grrrrr.. thought maybe converter was clogged took it loose and same thing
can you please tell me why my 1996 sebring seat belts wont come out. I wont
drive without them