Here is a video of the replacement of a U-Joint in my 1999 Chevy S-10 4×4. Shot over two days (due to a defective new part), it shows the removal of the driv…
Here is a video of the replacement of a U-Joint in my 1999 Chevy S-10 4×4. Shot over two days (due to a defective new part), it shows the removal of the driv…
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That’s my next job.
I’m doing both rear u-joints, the front is fine.
These are great little trucks, I have a Sonoma Highrider.
is it really that simple? i have a 2001 chevy s10 and its making a whole
lot of clanking as a i drive. especially when i come to a stop, or pull
forward from a total stop. its making a whole lot of whinning too as i step
on the gas pedal. might need to replace the serepentine belt also.
U rule! Thx so much
Very helpful, thanks.
thanks
Id use map gas, hotter the better.
Are all u-Joint for the S-10/blazer press in? my local autozone has two,
Pressed in and Screw in. I got to do u-joints on my truck.
Which kind of gas do you recommend using, is propane hot enough or will
MAPP gas be required?
Fantastic video and explanation! Helped me tremendously, many thanks.
Very helpful video thank you couldn’t have done it without watching this
Nice video, thanks for that!
Thanks dude. Helps a lot.
what will cause my rear end to lock up ? And when i removed the drain plug
on the transfer case no fluid came out . Will the drive shaft cause the
rear end not to move ?
What kind of wheels are those?!
I was wondering how many u joints are on a 1998 chevy s10 and are all the u
joints the same?
You have to make them uncomfortably hot…when that plastic starts
squirting out, be quick about it as you don’t want it to re-harden.
At 8:04 when you install the shaft back in, do you put clips on the ears
that get bolted on too?
where did you get that kind of press, that looks like it will come in handy
your diff is leaking
Thank you very much! This is some very useful information.
I wish I would’ve seen this a year ago before I removed my girlfriend’s
U-Joint. It took me some hammering before I read that I needed to use a
torch. apparently mapp gas works much faster but propane did the trick.
just have to be patient and heat thoroughly. time to go change the
transmission…
I would think rear end gear honestly, loudest when shifting from R to D or
R to D. It can be U-joints, that’s for sure, easy to check, just remove the
driveshaft and check them for play or being sloppy. They should be free but
tight. Would be fairly typical for a GM rear end.
why didnt flim the darn thing instead of just skipping everything, do it
again
my 96 automatic ext cab s-10 vibrates at low speed,took it into the shop
and they said that i need to replace the double cardin joints on the rear
driveshaft and very expensive…they said if i can find a driveshaft with
no double cardin u joints ,it will work and is cheaper,but where can i find
one of these driveshafts??and whats the length of the rear driveshaft i
need?…..by the way your video was very imformative….thanx.
Would not have known about having to heat the joint cap to remove them. I
have Chevy astro that I’m trying to remove front u joint and this info
should bring success thank you.
@Turbo231 Do you clip them in the area that is indented on the ujoint? I
think we forgot to on the last ujoint or it was done improperly, I have a
vibration at 35mph and it seems like the drive shaft is moving on that
ujoint because the snap rings aren’t on the ends that aren’t pressed
in…Sound right?
@TakingU2Skool Is it 4×4? if it is, then it’s from the transfer case. Check
the level and replace with appropriate fluid…which is a heavy oil I
believe, your owners manual will know. If it is 2wd, then its from your
transmission, you’ll need to check the level and top off with the
appropriate fluid, in the case of a stick shift, its still ATF.
Fantastic! I had no idea what to make of those plastic nubs on my drive
shaft. I dont care if it’s 2 in the morning, I gotta try it now. BTW, you
put the 2 remaining (moon shaped) clips on the u-joint before installing
back to the rear end? I guess I missed it… Great instuctional bud!
Pretty good chance its the bearing.
Thank you so much…. Helped me tremendously. Ive got the shaft out and all
of the caps out. My new joint is about to go in. Im new to all of this and
your video made it quite easy.
The torch melts the plastic making it much easier to move…once melted,
nothing is holding in the caps. New caps use C clips, so you’re good to go.
This is awesome! Thanks for making this video. I’m just about to do this to
my truck.
@macdell1 You are welcome, glad it helped. 🙂
@MSLOLO523 It is a ball joint press from Harbor Freight…just the basic
kit, works great for that and all sorts of pressing needs.
helped me out a lot, thanks for the vid.
Thanks for the information! This is very helpful since I have not seen the
plastic retainers before or how to remove them. Torch ’em the cure for all!
LOL Thanks!
Bearing is a good bet. See my other video on front end bearing replacement
for a quick how-to.
@Znitso Mostly parked right now but in pretty much the same shape…she’ll
be making a 2800 mile trip here soon and more videos will follow.
why did not you replace the pinion seal in your way !!!? it is leaking !!
it is not a good thing you leave that thing leaks or it could let your
pinion bearings without a proper lubricant and damage it !! you really
would have saved yourself a lot of time and effort if you did that all
together with u joints replacement at one time.
Oh, when heating up the plastic, be careful and wear safety glasses to
prevent injury due to random explosions. Scared the crap outta me.
I wish I would’ve seen this a year ago before I removed my girlfriend’s
U-Joint. It took me some hammering before I read that I needed to use a
torch. apparently mapp gas works much faster but propane did the trick.
just have to be patient and heat thoroughly. time to go change the
transmission…
Thank you!
while the driveshaft was off, why not replace the pinion seal in the rear?
outstanding,going to have a crack at my cherokee front halfshaft uv this
monday.
well done video!!!
I replaced both of the f driveshaft u joints on my 02 1500 Silverado Z71.
Before hand, I was encountering a severe squeaking noise when accelerating,
and found another video on youtube that had the exact same sound they said
it was both of the rear driveshaft u joints. I got the new parts for the
rear, but wondered if you had any suggestions regarding the clips. they are
diff then the front DS. saw another video, but the guy seemed to have the
joint lock up. want to avoid that problem
Thanks man. I just changed my u joint using your video. It’s cold out and
seeing you do it in the snow made me feel better about the whole thing.