Intake manifold Gasket replacement No Oil Leaks by Scared Shiftless

Intake manifold Gasket replacement No Oil Leaks  by Scared Shiftless

How to install an intake manifold gasket with no leaks on small block and big block Chevrolet. Tips you need to know! Replacing a intake manifold gasket made…

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Ron S says:

Are those middle holes that you put RTV on, are they water jackets too?

Bernie Ramone says:

very good video, except the part I needed to know..
Which way is the correct way to fit inlet
gaskets?

Guillaume Bergeron says:

Hello Mark!
I am about to do the exact same job and I wanted to know why didn’t you use
RTV on intake ports too? Only on water jacket and exhaust? thanks a lot!

Bowtiemonster1987 says:

Hey Mark, I have been a professional mechanic for over 10 years, I have
used Scotch-Brite pads, a rectangle pad like you show and a 2.5″ disk for
an air tool. I have completed and estimated 1,000 intake R&R’s and have
never had an engine blow up. These fibers you speak of are actually
composed of plastic which has a melting point of 150°C, the fibers are also
coated in aluminum oxide. I agree a hard substance like aluminum oxide
should not be inside an engine, however a razor blade/scraper will not
always remove all gasket material/oxidization. I like my intake gasket to
seal, especially if that is why you are there in the first place. If what
you said were true, there would be many mechanics out of a job as I’ve seen
nearly every one use this “forbidden” procedure.

dave french says:

watched your video and installed a performer 2101 in about 45 min. Great
video for someone who’s never done one. Thanks.

D Wetick says:

When it comes to engines, the experts are in So. Cal…I’ve found!

daddybuddy says:

Hello Mark,
thanks sooo much for showing us, how it`s done proper. This realy helped me
out of a big Frustration!! I had this Job done by an “experienced” Mechanic
who tried it 3 times. I got my Car back 3 times leaking Oil like a
Chocolate Fountain. He has`nt realy done it wrong by using those stupid
Rubber Stripes, he just has`nt done it Right by not knowing your Trick. So,
i showed him your Video and we then did it together the way you`ve showed
us. After that, the Hot Rod Season could be continued with no Oil Leaks at
all……

Thanks so much again and Greetings from Germany
Wolfgang

Kyle Kelliher says:

theres no oil in the intake manifold, so it shouldnt be hard to avid oil
leaks from there. 

Carlos Guevara says:

Awesome video mark will be doing this soon

Ron S says:

Mark, what is the best way to torque down the bolts, do you just torque
them down 25 ft lbs in one shot or is there separate sequences?

Mark Boice says:

We only use Felpro MS90314-2 These gaskets fit many engine sizes so check
before you install. No sense in doing all that work to save a couple of
bucks installing cheap gaskets. I am pretty sure most part stores have them
in stock or can order them for you. Thank You for your question.

Brian Farrugia says:

Nicely done! I did the same procedure on my 68 350 Pontiac. 30 years later
I tore down the engine and the silicone was still working and parts came
off easily.

Tijuana Rick says:

What brand silicone and number are you using? I need to do this exact
process to my 340 buick engine. Thanks

Ron S says:

Great video, but you left out a very important part on torquing the
manifold bolts down in sequence and spec…

Mark Boice says:

Not really. When the rubber gaskets are blown out the PCV valve does not
work properly. It sucks air in where the gasket material is missing. This
causes the engine to run poorly. A bad or missing PCV valve can create so
many oil leaks on and engine you just would not believe. In older engine to
solution was a down draft tube. Today the answer is a vacuum pump. Some
engines even have a catch can to collect oil. Hopes this helps you. Thank
You Mark

Dosu2death says:

Nice job! Question about your use of silicone. Why did you only use it on
the water jackets and not the intake ports as well?

Terry McNutt says:

Great video!., but I have a Question…I am putting on a 7101 Edelbrock
intake on a 350. I noticed that I have three water ports on each head; just
like on the one in this video. On my new intake, it only has two on each
side. My question is, did I get the wrong intake or is there away to block
off one of the water ports?

Mark Boice says:

Great Question! It is always a good idea to wait a couple of hours before
adding coolant. It will take some time to install all the components back
on the engine like carburetor, alternator, and linkage. By the time all the
items are installed you should be fine to start the engine with no
problems. Thank you for your comment.

D Wetick says:

Followed your instructions on my GM 305 CID…torqued all bolts to 30 ft
lbs starting from center and found no oil leaks. Putting the distributor
back in was a little dicey…but rotated the gear cw and then ccw and then
slightly off the mark and it dropped right in. Engine cranked hard
(battery?) but then started…needed timed 8 deg BTDC…now cranks
easily…Many Thanks for your video!

jon o says:

You dont use RTV anywhere that the engine can suck it up.. RTV can cause
issues with O2 sensors and such thats why he didnt use any on the intake
ports

Rich Wilson says:

Hi Mark…….nice video. Would those rubber gaskets used for the intake
also cause a vacuum leak if not sealed right? thanks, Rich

travis says:

What about using the gaskasynch stuff on gasket(plus rtv on ends),,around
every port? Would this help or hurt? Also,how do ya tell if gasket is
leaking on the underside?

Mark Boice says:

Not really. When the rubber gaskets are blown out the PCV valve does not
work properly. It sucks air in where the gasket material is missing. This
causes the engine to run poorly. A bad or missing PCV valve can create so
many oil leaks on and engine you just would not believe. In older engine to
solution was a down draft tube. Today the answer is a vacuum pump. Some
engines even have a catch can to collect oil. Hopes this helps you. Thank
You Mark

Tijuana Rick says:

is it gas resistant? I guess it wouldn’t matter if it’s only on the exhaust
ports. Why only the exhaust ports and water jackets, and not the intake
ports? thank you for the quick reply. I look forward to more videos.

Wardracing19 says:

Tijuana Rick, exhaust ports are located on the side of the head where the
headers or exhaust manifolds are. On the intake manifold you only have
water jackets and intake ports.

Clayton Cannon says:

Excellent video and answered my question as to why I was getting a mild oil
leak on the side of my intake. I didn’t apply any sealer to my screws.
Also, in the video you stated that you would post another video showing how
to adjust a distributor. Is that video uploaded?

Mark Boice says:

Permatex High Temp Red RTV Item # 81160. Works very well. Never a problem.
Thank You

Zerostar369 says:

Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time to do this Mark.

Ron S says:

I heard you’re supposed to wait several hours to put the coolant back in,
is that true? Also this is one of the best videos I’ve seen for installing
intakes.

Mark Boice says:

One is for the heater hose fitting. The other is used for water sensor.
Sometimes the water sensor is in the head. You can just block them off if
you are not using them. You may want to check the back of the intake for
another water port. Sometimes there is another for steam. That would go
back to the radiator. Most applications do not use this port unless you are
racing and need extra cooling. Thank you for your comment.

Ron S says:

What is the size or number for those intake gaskets for the 350?

Mark Boice says:

The water jacket area will always have some pitting on the intake and the
heads. Silicon will fill the void to prevent leaks. Water in the oil Not
Good!

Mark Boice says:

Hi Mark…….nice video. Would those rubber gaskets used for the intake
also cause a vacuum leak if not sealed right? thanks, Rich

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