Engine Building Part 2 – Gapping Rings, Installing Pistons in a 350 Chevy

Engine Building Part 2 – Gapping Rings, Installing Pistons in a 350 Chevy

Ring Gapping, installation, piston installation, checking for crankshaft binding. 350 Chevy small block.

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Comments

Gabriel Bryant says:

What if u miss a couple and put the dots downward how bad is this

John Wilson says:

I know this is old but my hyper pistons call for .026 top middle ring gap for street/strip. 0.14 is what you set it for. How come?

Alan W says:

you put the oil ring on wrong way 7:16 , the spring oil ring the end of the ring should point up! like this / , so when compression up it block the air and when down it's open and can left some oil.

Joel Leeper says:

Should I put oil on rings before installing them?

Harry Honzik says:

I didn't see checking the rod and crank journal's for proper clearance with plastic gauge

Otim Ivan says:

It very interesting

HAMMER - says:

Where does one get a piston as such?

Mike Isenhart says:

Great video sir. I just finished doing a complete teardown of my first gen SBC 350. Straight away I found cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 rod chamfers were to the front and 2,4,6 and 8 were chamfer towards rear. Was there ever any exceptions to the forward chamfer rule?

Rbarr says:

True teaching ability. Thank you

Chicken Foundation says:

What is the part number for the rings? I have 2m139030 and both top and 2nd are at .020

chad bosko says:

Does the ring compressor go into the cylinder at all or just press up against it

Joshua Charlery says:

Thanks Pete!

Audrey's Kitchen says:

Hey Pete, thanks for the great video!

I’m teaching myself mechanical stuff by working on an old 250cc one cylinder engine. Seems like I need new piston rings now after running a compression test. Was wondering if you have any thoughts on re-using the rod/bearings/bore/hone that is existing in a 30 year old engine. Trying to keep cost to a minimum.

Kevin Randall says:

Why do SBC V8s only have 4 bolt main caps on the 3 center journals, i understand the concept but you’d think that 4 bolt would go on the end of the crank with the greatest amount of load and that is #1 as it has the balancer driving all accessories and thats a fair load even at normal driving speed 2-3000 RPM & #5 which carries a far greater load even statically 3-4 times more than #1 imagine the amount of momentum a clutch + fly wheel or a torque converter would build up at 2500RPM that is a lot of kinetic energy stored in each end of the crank, and looking at that engine it looks like it’s going to have a few performance adder’s fitted to it, so it will probably get spun to 7-7500 RPM at times

Simon Austin says:

That was really helpful, I’m doing a z1000 , it’s daunting for me but that’s so helpful, thank you. And you’re a nice geeza. From Simon in the UK

Román Jaspe says:

I've got a question, the book's titles you wrote down in the description…what author?..i mean what specifics book?

Román Jaspe says:

Thanks so much brother. Regards

Antiochia ad Taurum says:

do you have to replace rod cap screws when putting it all back together? Or is it safe enough to reuse the rod cap screws? Or does it depend on the specific types?

NISsan_MOtors says:

What’s the matter? Assembly lube on the latex gloves? Lmao

warbirdflyer says:

Thanks for a great video.

Kite says:

That was a great tutorial. Thanks a lot. Keith in UK.

HQ-88 says:

Any tips for how to avoid having the oil rings pop out before entering the cylinder?

Chris Stainer says:

What about buying the right part for your car when entering registration number on dealer web sits

Ray Medorio says:

What's the gap for the oil rings?
And it will be for all V6 or V8 engines under 20?
I'm rebuild one 5.7 hemi for my 04 dodge durango

Stoutracingteam55 says:

Great video bud

KO’S Workshop says:

Could anyone tell me what size of ball hone I would need to purchase for a sbc 350 & a 305?

John Behneman says:

GREAT VIDEO & EDUCATION!!!! I LEARNED SO MUCH!!!

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