This should cover anything you need to about Distributor replacement for Chevy V8 Vortec engines.
I also have a shortened version for those more familiar with the process. https://youtu.be/z1Xv6Pa0toE
Distributor Replacement How To Chevy Vortec 5.7 and TDC Compression Stroke
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This technique to install the Distributor correctly ABSOLUTELY works. Thanks again Jameson! After finishing my long block replacement, the engine fired right up and runs smoothly, I did get a Check Engine Light (P1345). My final question for the benefit of all your viewers: Can you adjust the "clock" of the Distributor to find the sweet spot to delete the C.E.L.? Or is a scan tool equipped with a cam "retard" set function needed to correct the Check Engine Light? Or should I take the truck to a shop with the proper diagnostic tools? Thanks again for making your videos sir!
If you bump the starter would that move it from top dead center?
Well done sir! Worked the treat! I did not however "bump" the starter rather, slowly turned the engine by way of the Crankshaft Pulley. Was having a difficult time getting that distributor to "find" the oil pump drive and it's engagement slot. About to reach for the BFH! Then friend says: "Consult the Tubes!". Cannot thank you enough. Cheers.
Thank you I am so grateful for video and all the details And explanation that you put into it I'm a painter by trade and you really help me out thank you.
Crap this is so complicated.
If you are only replacing the distributor, no need to get it on #1. Bump starter or rotate engine to point rotor at 12 o’clock (straight toward back of truck) and mark location on the firewall if you can’t remember. Pull distributor and install new distributor with rotor installed correctly and when distributor is all the way down it should be pointed at 12 o’clock or your mark on firewall. You don’t have to rotate engine if distributor (rotor) is pointing to a known location or bracket, mark it and pull distributor. But having rotor either point toward back of truck or front of truck is easy to remember. The ignition rotor basically only goes on one way, or you’ll break it. Always install new rotor and cap! The tiny screws are easy to strip out, so watch it. There are various methods of adjusting timing, but on older models you locate a brown wire (sometimes located inside truck) disconnect brown wire connector and adjust timing, reconnect brown wire. Some engines require a scan tool to set the timing. If no check engine light, it’s probably dead on. With distributors that rotate or adjustable, you may want to mark distributor housing to intake too down at the base like he said. The rotor and cap screws are easily dropped or stripped, so don’t over torque.
Notice the diff of distance between the rotor screw holes and the holes where the plastic tits on bottom of the ignition rotor button go, only suppose to line up one way.
When just removing and replacing the distributor, don’t worry about TDC. You’re installing to same location you removed it.