How to properly install a distributer on a chevy 4.3L or 5.3l vortec engine, even if crankshaft was moved. The timing is not adjustable on these models so it…
4.3L 5.3L Chevy Vortec Distributer install
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Great video but, no mention of checking or adjusting camshaft retard. That
is part of the job when installing the distributor on a 1996 or newer 4.3L.
You must use a capable scan tool to access CMP retard. Adjustment is done
by rotating the distributor. Did you notice the “slop” before the hold down
bolt was installed? It’s caused by a difference in diameters of the
distributor housing and the hole in the intake. The “slop” allows the
distributor to be slightly rotated on an arc. Spec is zero degrees plus or
minus 2 degrees. The adjustment aligns the CMP sensor with the camshaft and
virtually eliminates crossfire inside the cap, (P0300). Accurate
alignment is necessary for accurate misfire detection and accurate cylinder
identification.
Yes know I can do it happy new is going to be good
thank you thank you thank you . man you i can not thank you enough for this
detailed yet clear video
On top of all this shit you need #1cylinder on TCD on compression stroke.
Pray you don’t go thru all this to find out its exhaust stroke. Pulling
plugs is another trick.
very helpful, thank you for actually showing this…99% of the “answers”
online are just a bunch of swelled headed “mechanics” boasting about
information that is not related. I guess so they can feel smart. and no 2
answers are the same. not to mention that the majority of sights to answer
the questions, do not answer a damn thing. so I appreciate you showing just
the facts and nothing more. (btw, it was the oil pump drive slot that was
hindering me on the install.)
great video had a mis fire problem changed spider injection new ignition
coil and distributor rotor and cap thanks to your videos i fixed the
problem myself saved me alot of time and money. thank you.
9102jack is right
no dizzy on a 5.3 ls engines
4.3 5.0 5.7 would have a dizzy.
good video tho
Matt help
changed out the distributer on a 4.3, all timing makes are good and rotor
is in the right position, got spark but it is failing to start . was
running before. also I changed out the intake gasket do to a leak.. Did I
somehow forget or to plug something back in? I;ve check and can not find
any that are not,…also I have swapped out another dis. so I know it isn’t
that.. all plug wires are correct… any Idea?
im attempting to replace oil sending unit sensor ,ive watch another vid is
it a neeseorry to reove dist or just cap great vid great detail
Thanks so much for the video, worked perfect first shot! Saved me some $,
God bless!!!
Excellent job and great information! Thanks a lot!
Thank You so much for this video! I pulled my distributor out of my 1999
suburban, and forgot to mark it, when I was doing a head job on the engine.
Anyway I was in a panic until I saw your video, and I followed your steps
exactly, and the engine fired up perfectly, you saved me a lot of time,
thank you so much for your instruction!!! Great Job!!
oops // but now when you rev engine faster rhan idle get lot of nosie like
timing off.told them didnt have #1 tdc when put dist.back in.ther saying
main bearing is bad
took my 95 jimmy to shop they replace intake gasket
Its best to point the rotor button towards the firewall, then make a mark
on the firewall…. And YES you can adjust the timing of the distributor on
the 4.3L… You’d need to grid down the plastic housing where the hold down
sits, so the distributor will rotate freely and snugly in the hold down.
THEN, you need a scan tool that will give you a can retard degree readout.
The shop where I work has a SnapOn Verus scanner that I use on my 4.3/S10.
Thank you so so much..you saved my ass..i was trying to put the rotor
button on the #1spark plug like a 5.7…tore timing down 6/7 times..omg
god..thank you..god bless you
Oh man, thank you so much for this clear, concise video.Yesterday I tackled
my intake manifold gasket on my ’98 350 5.7 Vortec and was dreading the
distributor reinstall. Even though I marked all the installed positions as
best I could, I was still worried. After seeing this, I’ll probably just
reset everything to #1 instead. Thanks again!!
thanks have ordered new distributor – help much appreciated,
Wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwaawaaawwwwaawwawwwawwwwwww
@Moises- Not sure what to say about that- it should turn very easily. In
fact it’s common practice to spin this shaft with an electric drill to
build pressure after a rebuild- there should be no resistance with the
screwdriver. Possibly you are missing the actual oil pump shaft and getting
the screwdriver stuck in the camshaft? Otherwise, you have some problems
with the oil pump I would say!! It should even turn easily in the “wrong”
direction in fact!
What if I have already tried starting my truck not knowing that the timing
was off? It obviously didn’t start. So would I just need to take the
distributor off and do as you did and that will fix my problem? Or is there
additional steps now since I started the motor with the timing off?
Aren’t 5.3’s coil-near-plug ignition? …no distributor?
Ya well it might be the thing to do since they have the computer tools ,I
wouldn’t think a distributor change would be that expensive anyway and they
can turn the light off if need be.. Hmm that mod might be either a new line
or just insulation covering to keep that line from sweating and dripping on
the cap .Sounds like GM might pay for the mod ?.. Hope it doesn’t cost
much… 😉
10mm
Well the distributor will be replaced with a better quality one. The stock
one in there now is pretty flimsy. It all started with the freon line being
right above the distributor. Now it won’t start unless I put a hair dryer
on it for 15 to 20 minutes to dry it out. I also found out there is a
recall (and modification) for this. I’m going to wimp out and have a repair
shop do this fix!
The shop will do it for a little over $100.00 – not too bad IMHO. Hunting
for a better quality distributor is what took a while! This V6 is a solid
engine (cast iron block & heads). I hope this distributor (AC Delco) does
it justice, tried to find a performance one but no such luck. On the AC
line – you got it I think the fix will be insulation/covering of some kind.
Thanks for the comment and hopefully the new cap fixed it, Chris. If not,
On a P0300 it is very possible a fuel delivery problem could be the issue
as well as many other things. Unfortunately without seeing on a scantool
which cylinders are misfiring it can be very difficult to diagnose. For
example, if it turns out all the cylinders on just one bank are mifiring
you can rule out many more possibilities than if the misifires are random
through the whole engine. Good luck!
Nice work Matt! I’m starting to believe that you’re a tutorial guy also.
Smiling…
Just an update, I finally got everything back together yesterday and she
turned over on the first crank!! Running like an 8 cylinder sewing machine,
no CEL, rough idle or mis/crossfire. Thanks again!!
This is an excellent video. I also have a 1998 GMC 1500 5.7L Vortec. Is
there no timing/distributor adjustment on the 1998 5.7L? Just like the
5.3L? My truck has 130000 miles on it and I’m going to upgrade/change the
distributor on it. Thanks and take care, Charles Almond
Ill be performing this procedure for a job application thanks for the help!
Nice job you made Schrodinger Box and I have a question for you. My Chevy
Silverado truck has installed a distribuitor with a mark 6 on the arrow but
the engine is 8 cilinders; how this situation can afect the engine
performance or or the timing adjustment?
Marylanduman, if you’re certain the old distributer was properly installed
then you won’t have to set the motor to TDC- just make marks where the old
rotor lined up before you removed it and as long as the new distributer
lines up the same way you are good. Remember the paintmark and dimple I
show on the shaft/drivegear are used if motor is at TDC. I would recommend
scribing a mark on the old distributer showing its orientation when you
removed it so this can be used as an intsall reference.
You’re welcome Aaron. Indeed I find it MUCH easier to just reset to TDC#1
rather than try to mark the existing relationship and reinstall. Just make
sure you are actually at TDC#1– there are TWO timing marks on the harmonic
balancer and a lot of people get confused on this. The second timing mark
is TDC#1– but make sure you do feel compression a t#1 just to be sure and
you’ll be fine. I just did another one of these this weekend in fact and
nailed it on the very first attempt lol!
thanks man it really help me but i have a really bac miss fire on all
cylinder thats why i replace the ditributor and cap
@Eric- Thanks for the comment. My guess is you probably forgot to plug in
the electrical connector at the distributer when you re-installed. If
that’s not the case, then most certainly the distributer was not installed
properly. Make certain you are at TDC Cyl#1 on COMPRESSION stroke and
verify the pointers on the distributer line up as shown. Other than that
you must have disturbed some other electrical connection. In particular
check the large plug at top of engine for the fuel injectors.
@Mike- I’m you sure you meant Escalade- never been in an Escapade though I
recall Janet Jackson inviting me on one about 15 years ago. Nonetheless, to
the best of my knowledge, unlike most engines with adjustable distributers,
the Cadillac 5.7 does not have timing marks over the crankshaft pulley and
thus a timing light will be next to useless. On such models the “proper”
way to time is to look at camshaft timing with a scantool as the
distributer is adjusted.
I think you hit the nail on the head when you said: “Computer locked
model”. Yeah there was a couple of dirt track type distributors out there
but they wanted some major dollars for them. I paid $208.00 for the AC
Delco. I’ll do a vid on it after I get it installed.