HOW TO REPLACE TIMING CHAINS ON CADILLAC CTS 3.6L (DAY 2)

HOW TO REPLACE TIMING CHAINS ON CADILLAC CTS 3.6L (DAY 2)

Hey Folks! Welcome back to the channel. In this part two of the video series, I’ll show the second half of how to replace timing chains on the 3.6L in our 2007 Cadillac CTS. We had to replace the timing chains because of codes P0008 and P0017. The 3.6L (Alloytec, high feature, HFV6) motor also came in the Cadillac SRX, STS, GMC Acadia, Buick Enclave, and Chevy Malibu, among others.
#TimingChains #Replacement #Cloyes

HOW TO REPLACE TIMING CHAINS ON CADILLAC CTS 3.6L (DAY 1)
https://youtu.be/aKIN8AR95C4
GM 3.6L P0008 / P0017 CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR – Cadillac CTS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZIWNYVTLfQ&t=2s
Cloyes Timing Chain Instructions
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZyehWKDV-Y&t=187s

Parts List
Cloyes 9-0753S Timing Kit
https://amzn.to/2y4cjpP

Fel-Pro TCS 46108 Timing Cover Set
https://amzn.to/2WFG8aq

Fel-Pro VS 50726 R Valve Cover Gasket Set
https://amzn.to/2y3XiUY

Permatex Ultra Grey RTV 13 oz
https://amzn.to/3bq0TLv

Camshaft Holding Tool
https://amzn.to/2QFjbQG

Lisle 37000 Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set
https://amzn.to/2UuPEul

Lisle 56750 Seal Puller
https://amzn.to/2Jc2jNm

*** I am an Amazon affiliate. I make a small commission from sales through my Amazon links that goes to support this channel. ***

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pun pun Productions says:

Hey man I’m doing the job and I’m up to the replacing the timing chain finally so I was wondering if you are still selling your flywheel holder tool?

Junk Mail says:

Where/when did you install the holding tools?

Steven Orr says:

Do you leave the engine in the stage 2 timing for reassembly and start up?

Chris Grantham says:

good video, hard to hear, need a good microphone or get closer. music much louder than your talking

pun pun Productions says:

I got a 2006 Cadillac CTS it’s my first car I have changed everything and I got the p0008 code and I saw this vid and my 18 yr old self said junk it but I dumped so much money into it mite as well save it so thanks for the vid man

DoubleD says:

Great video, thanks.
I think the timing chain wear disparity between the sides is due to excessive ventilation rather than too little. The new valve cover gasket will have a barrier to restrict PCV flow and help retain oil within the rocker arm galley. I recommend anyone who owns or is going to buy this engine should replace the passenger side valve cover gasket before more damage occurs. This will also significantly reduce the oil consumption rate.

I noticed the nylon guides on yours were much thinner than the new guides. I think the most significant contributor to the chain timing delay is that the guide opposite the tensioner is worn down, rather than chain stretch. The tensioner's guide doesn't affect cam timing. The cam timing code is designed to alert before the guide wears away enough to allow the timing chain to contact metal. The only examples I've seen where cam timing actually jumped was in the cases were the owner ignored the Check Engine light until the guides wore completely down and were dislodged from the shoe and/or tensioner to create massive slack.

New chains are always a bit shorter than used chains, but that doesn't mean it stretched. New chain link joints are packed with assembly lube which accounts for the difference. Once it runs for a bit they'll measure about the same. Chains don't stretch, but the link joints do fail. Once that happens it'll make a LOT of noise and it'll probably destroy the sprockets.

Once a guy is into the engine this deep, this may seem a little extreme… You can only replace all the nylon guides, gaskets and seals. It'll solve the code, and the new valve cover gasket will solve the oil issue. This also takes away the cam timing challenges. It should still be all aligned, but certainly verify. I think you'd only save $150 for the chains but that may be important to some folks. I'd say the sprockets are never necessary, unless there was metal to metal destruction as mentioned before.

You did excellent work here but I can offer a couple my preferences;

I prefer to remove the harmonic balancer bolt as soon as I can reach it. I like to have all the accessories still connected, and the spark plugs in, to give me a bit of an advantage. Yours popped right out, I don't seem to get that lucky. I also like to get the radiator out of my way, and out of harms way.

I like to do a compression check after I get the timing chains back on to verify cam timing and valve integrity. I can also compare to the before compression measurements. This also makes sure everything spins freely before engine power is applied. Just apply power to the starter, not the whole electrical system.

That flywheel lock tool is pretty cool. I usually use a rubber or wood wedge inside the old belt at the harmonic balancer pulley; I'll put a new belt on after that. I also have a big mama jama pipe wrench where I use the old belt to protect the pulley and the floor to stop rotation, if there's clearance to get it in there. If these didn't work I hydraulic lock one cylinder with oil instead; that always works but cleanup takes a bit.

I like that you got a new harmonic balancer bolt, few people do but I'm with ya.

I didn't fire right away due to air in the fuel lines. You can only bleed up to the Schrader valve which doesn't help much. I do just like you did, a little bit of patience. You could use some starter fluid but not necessary.

Ben Propson says:

Did you also replace the fuel pump? I've done this and it didn't start that hard. Seems like you cycled the "new" fuel pump a few time to try and rebuild pressure. Just curious .
Sounds great but you should have had a before video with noise so people can diagnose as well.

EvilFbody 361 says:

So mine sounded just like that after doing the timing chain on my 3.6L. But after a few turns it didn’t want to stay on. Any suggestions?

Bill Dickson says:

Hi Kevin, Bill from Downunder mate. Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge and skills, your video has been very helpful, hence you have a new subscriber.

Cheers from Bill

Louie Stepanek says:

What an outstanding video! Great job and thanks buddy. I've got an 05 CTS 3.6 with 173K miles with the stock chains. I've always had to add fresh oil to the motor because of the tolerances and going through it, so hopefully that has helped.

T Miles Sr says:

So I have all my parts on hand and read to tackle this but after my searches on the internet…does the #1 cylinder have to be at TDC first before I start the procedure?

donnie darko says:

Have you sold those tools? I'm doing my 08 cts timing. I'm just going further in because I blew an idler arm. This is the only content thats got me wanting to do this. I would love to get those tools from you.

Steven Orr says:

I have my timing cover removed and I moved it to stage two timing to remove the right bank components, and one of my cam phasers seems to be out of time possibly. The R timing mark on it is facing about 7 o’clock so it’s impossible to line the colored link up with it. I haven’t removed anything yet. Is that normal or do I have something else going on? Any advice would be appreciated.

T Miles Sr says:

I own a 2007 SRX with a same engine…botton crank shaft turns when you hit the key…no fire of course…getting ready to tackle mine…very informative video, will use it as my tool to succeed in the task, Thank you for your help!

XxJonathan96xX says:

What happens if the cams are moved or the chain has jumped time? Can you move them back to line up with your timing marks?

Fredy Jimenez says:

Is there a car warranty for this my car has 104k miles and I’m getting code p00017

Darin Hill says:

Don't see the short video on what parts you use on this job

Eddie Leach says:

Anybody in houston who can do this?if so can u call me?7134189205

Jason Stiver says:

Any idea why the heads of the bolts would be contacting my timing cover before it is seated?? I ended up cracking my timing cover while tightening the cover down. There is obvious contact marks from the heads of both lower timing gear bolts. Any help greatly appreciated.

Naughtydog says:

great video, besides when you decided to change the plastic piece on the tensioner and not the whole thing. they dont always fail because of the surface, its the tension in tensioner that fails :X

Aaron S. says:

Great video, i have done many timing chains before but i am soon about to do my first CTS for my dad's car hence why i am here looking at what i am getting myself into. Tip for preventing that timing slap next time (tip for all vehicles). Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse to prevent the vehicle from starting then turn the engine over for 15 seconds wait 15 seconds and repeat. Replace the fuse/relay then start the engine. This will raise the oil pressure and pressurize the tensioners before you start the engine.

Joel Rivera says:

I have a flywheel locking tool for sale will ship for cheap direct message me on instagram @jayfadzz

Randy Baker says:

Did you have any issues with the cover goin back on?
That is the current issue that im having

SK Boxing TV says:

MASSIVE JOB but after watching this i feel like i can do it

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