In this video, Sam from http://www.professionalfleet.com in Lansing, Michigan is showing step by step how to properly repair rear disc brakes on a vehicle. H…
In this video, Sam from http://www.professionalfleet.com in Lansing, Michigan is showing step by step how to properly repair rear disc brakes on a vehicle. H…
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Can i put the front brakes of my car (rotors, calipers etc) in the rear and
buy bigger brakes for the front?
So we need a torque wrench in the trunk of every car, so if you get a flat
you can make shur the spare is put on to proper spec ? What the hell are
you smoking? Do you think every tire and or wheel on every thing on the
road is torque to spec ?
Yes we always do, however as I stated above I don’t really believe it works
as good as some people think. We use it anyways, kind of in a preventative
measure.
An excellent and thorough video. I wonder what he was spraying on the brake
pads though at around 7:25 – it didn’t look like the same can of brake
cleen.
no emergency brake cable?
Please stay away from the Orange bottle, it is basically latex paint. When
it hardens with heat, it forms a hard crust that prevents pad from moving
freely on piston. As to Anti-Seize, it contains over 60% mineral oil, 30%
calcium fluoride (powder) and maybe 5% aluminum. The oil in AS evaporate
with heat so it leaves a sticky residue that restricts movement of brake
pads.
When pushing the cylinder back it, I always open the bleeder so the old
fluid from the wheel cylinder is discarded and I do not push the old fluid
back into the system. I think it is safer to just let the old fluid out the
bleeder than to take the chance of pushing crud back into the master
cylinder. Then I always bleed the entire system with fresh fluid.
@ryanlester1980 when you depressed the caliper piston. you usually should
have a helper for this at the hood with a bottle of brake fluid while you
crack the bleeder valve on the caliper, with a hose on the valve going to a
bottle that has a little brake fluid in it and the hose should submerge in
the fluid. as you bleed it out by depressing the piston your helper slowly
refills the master cylinder. e.g. soft pedal means air in the lines.
I do not recommend this method to a DIY guy. Never open a bleeder valve on
the brake system unless you are replacing parts that require you to do so.
Very few individuals doing brakes for the first few times can correctly
bleed a brake system resulting in a very spongey pedal or worse crashing
the vehicle afterwards. You also have to contend with rust and corrosion.
Only someone with experience should attempt this.
1 He also did not bleed the piston which probably made a mess at the break
fluid bottle and 2 he did not mention that once the tyres are on you must
enter the vehicle pump your break pedal so the pistons engage the break.I
know you have good intentions but your video can kill someone.
Great vid, what car are you working on?
GOOD VIEDO
@JAMESPTOOLE Don’t you need to remove some of the brake fluid before you
push back the piston?? What is the special tool called that most vehicles
need to push back the piston?
Not at all, unless you touched the adjustment!
you forgot the most important part man. I would hope that you torque the
wheels on once the vehicle is lowered if not you will be sued one day for
someones wheel/wheels falling off either from over torque or not enough
torque. You could kill someone or from your video basicly inform someone
that there is no need to torque your wheels. I didn’t see a torque adapter
on that gun and even if there was I still wouldn’t be impressed. The only
way to torque is with a proper calibrated torque wrench.
@profleetautorepair thank you for the reply-it really helps! I was just
thinking that the rotors on my jeep must be heavy duty rotors because they
cost $86.25 each. If they could be turned and get another cycle of pads
through, it might be money wise to do so. But, it sounds like I would be
increasing the odds for more aggravation by doing it this way. I will use
your expertise and do it the right way the first time:) Thank you again-I
appreciate it. Chet
What about bleeding the break line when replacing the pads? Do I have to do
that or can i just replace the pads without bleeding?
nice video in my car the rear brakes pads have torx bolts how can I remove
those?
What do you think on those cubed piston tool that pushes the piston back
I’m wondering if I can use that instead of buying those fancy adapters that
cost like $50-$60 and on what vehicles does that cube does not work. I just
finished my Brakes class and I want to start doing brake jobs but I want to
have the right tools.
Thank you for the video!!! I was just wondering if I should automatically
change the rotors on my 2006 jeep. This will be the first brake job for the
vehicle and the front rotors are very, very smooth. The rear rotors have a
very slight groove where the brake pad is wearing into the rotor. should I
change the rotors? Thanks
Hi Sam, I just replaced my rear brakepads. I noticed when I drive my car I
hear whitle kinda sound from the rear wheel. What could be that sound?
rust usually do the work of a lock tight here in cny
@0466rymaspencer I always change the rotors with pads. For so many reasons
I may not have the space here to go into! for one they are so cheap now i
don’t know why you wouldn’t. #2 Very high chance they will squeak and
squeal if you don’t #3 The thinner they get the hotter they get which will
lead to pulsation and more noise #4 the brakes will not stop as well and
will feel spongey, feeling like your on ice and vehicle does not grab and
stop like it should. I hope I have made my point. 🙂
I hope it works- myself- as I will be doing this job tomorrow. I am
skeptical but the cube is the least expensive item. The big “if” is whether
you can muscle the piston back in. I have had to use a large C clamp on
older Fords to do it.
@davidzzz94 If they have notches in them or do not push back easily with a
c clamp you will need the special brake tool. Or just ask your local parts
store that you bought your parts from. HOPEFULLY NOT AUTOZONE, MURRYS OR
ANY OTHER DISCOUNT PARTS STORE. If you work on your own vehicle regularly
you will soon learn the importance of quality parts people and the parts
they sell, enough said on this!
Remember to release the emergency brake before pulling the roters. Check
the shoes while your there.
Dry fine grit sand paper.
shouldnt you put some copper grease or anti squeel on the back of thwe pads?
That you know of anyways. It does happen. However, with that being said,
most of the time you’ll be alright as long as you don’t hammer the shit out
of it with an impact gun. The real reason to torque them properly is to not
risk bending the wheel or rotor.
@davidzzz94 with some rear pistons they need to be twisted whilst they are
pushed in to be successfull. usually the piston would have a groove which
the tool would grip to twist it.
shit dog calm down this guy knows what hes doing most people can estimate
the torque just by how much the bolt turns and especially when you got a
range of 40 ftlbs
I have been working on vehicles for 15 years and never had a tire fall off.
That’s over 2,000 vehicles per year! However we do torque certain vehicles
and all large trucks.
If I’m reusing my rotors, what is a safe product to use to remove the rust?
Thanks
Best bet is to buy a set of them for future use or rent a set from a local
parts store.
Great information.
What about the hand brake line? where does it attach?
Sam you just saved me about $400 bucks – thanks for the clear walk through
of the entire process. It took about 3 hours to replace rear pads and rotor
on a 2004 Envoy, including watching this video and a trip for lock tight.
All in was $209 with tax.
Hi, what did you spray on the brake pads. I know brake cleaner went on the
rotor but what on the pads?
@jdubdoubleu You can replace pads without bleeding brakes. I would not
recommend anyone without professional experience to remove a brake hose,
release a bleeder valve or bleed brakes. At the very least have someone who
has done it a few times before help you. If you get it wrong best case
scenario you smash up your vehicle. Remove the brake master cylinder cap
and press the piston back with a C clamp. If it does not go back caliper is
bad, replace it, then you will have to bleed brakes.
@whole27 You only need to remove break fluid if new fluid has been added to
“top off” the master cylinder. If you don’t when you compress the caliper
piston, you’ll push extra fluid all over the master cylinder entry. If
there has never been any fluid added. You should be fine.
Great video, I think he forgot to take off the brake fluid reservoir cap
before pushing the brake caliper piston in, that could damage something!
They call it brake pad spray or anti rattle spray. Personally I think it is
a waste of time however i have always used it because I want to eliminate
any chance of brake squeals or squeaks on customer vehicles. I prefer the
orange pastier stuff. The theory here is when braking the brake pads can
and will move ever so slightly in the caliper mount. This spray or paste
hardens and is supposed to help absorb some of the vibration or movement
that would lead to noise.
True, I had a tire fall off while I was going 35mph… boy did I grind to a
halt.
WHAT ABOUT REMOVING THE CAP ON THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR BEFORE PUSHING THE
PISTON BACK???
@profleetautorepair you said that you usually just get new rotors everytime
you replace them but i would think that would be more expensive than just
removing the rotors yourself and taking them to an auto parts store to have
them resurfaced, right? New rotors cost about 30-35 bucks each!? I read
that your factory rotors should last about 3 brake pad changes or about
90,000 miles? What are your thoughts on resurfacing rotors? Good or bad and
why?
An excellent presentation. Thank you very much.