Check out my series of the LT1 Opti spark replacement. How to replace opti spark LT1.
1994 Buick Roadmaster Wagon LT1 Opti Spark Replacement Part 3 Classic G-Body
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Yeah, I noticed that after I posted that. lol
I know but the name of my channel is Classic G-Body Garage. 🙂
These are B Bodies by the way. 🙂
thanks im getting a seal removal tool that sears sells ive heard it works well.
Don’t ruin the aluminum timing cover trying to get the seal out. Dap a dry wall screw in it like I did and pull it out with pliars or use a seal puller tool. Make sure you install it straight and don’t damage the seal. Use a piece of wood like I did or use a proper seal installation tool.
hey i have to replace a crankshaft output seal on a 94 roadmaster any tips?
Emmanuel. I did get this car going. Check out my channel for the full play list. Thanks for the post and thanks for watching.
Well, it’s been a while since you first posted but no mention of any final resolution. For anyone watching/reading this thread, you must use either a special tool or something suitable (previously mentioned socket) to guide the seal over the drive gear, else the inner lip will invert and ultimately leak. Many posts on this matter on the LT1 forum. Also, check out this video, search: 96 Impala Camshaft and Optispark Seals 2 of 4 . Good luck.
I would use a spark plug feeler gauge and some break in lube or engine oil that the way I did my LT1 rebuild and no leaks…knock on wood
Yeah as much as this job is involved, why would you not go through the effort to replace the seals. I messed up a few seals myself until i got the right tool.
I used a deep well1/2 inch 3/8 drive socket and carefully from the front (yellow part of the seal) pushed the socket through the seal. then the socket matches up perfectly with the shaft coming out from the engine. Now just slide the seal over the socket and on to the shaft. The seal is now set up to take a 5/8 deep well and drive it home! Just figured this out after ruining a couple of those myself. I don’t care what anyone says you do a water pump this seal must be replaced!!
You need a special tool made specifically for the installation of the water pump seal. It looks like a thick bullet that the seal must slide over in order to push the inner part of the seal forward.
How can do you more damage replacing seals? Replacing these seals are quite easy. Mine do not leak.
i did this 4 times.
You should have never changed the seals even if they leak. forget it …u can do more damage …
i just change the opti and then put rtv sealant around the opti so oil doesnt leak from those bad cam seals
replace the seal the way it was!! because it need too be the original way it was at first!!! make sure the lip of the seal is correct!!! i work on a LT1 engine before!! thank you!! p.s. it keep any fuels out the ring motion when turning!! peace!!!
ues a glasses screw driver
I have never heard of an exhaust leak causing an arcing plug wire unless maybe the exhaust leak burned through the plug wire. Good videos btw.
I can’t post the video url but type this in to your search box on youtube: 96 Impala Camshaft and Optispark Seals 1 of 4. On my car, I have #6 plug is arcing on me. I replaced the spark plug once already, it was ok for a week, then did it again. I also had to replace a manifold gasket butt I couldnt take of the manifold bolts (to inspect the manifold) Now I have reason to believe that I have a cracked manifold b/c I hear an exhaust leak STILL. Can this cause me arcing sparkplug?
oi
i did this before took the water pump out and the opitspark out but i never did the seals on them yet i should of didnt know there were any
but the easiest way to put in a seal would be to put some lube on it like anti sieez lube its like clear you use on ele stuff that works good or some oil or like little bit of gas on the seals then they should slide in smoother then slideing them in dry you know but try that and i should work if not then i dont know but thats how i did it
the end
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I used a taperd sharpie cover cut it, used black tape for the step sharpie cover to shaft, used oil on shaft, when dne just pull te tape it will slide off, both in and outer seal on it fold outward
Even for someone who is well equipped and experienced it ‘s a three to four hour job!
Whatever you do, DON’T use a rebuilt water pump! (Unless you’re just trying to drive the car to the salvage yard). I picked up an A1 Cardone pump from Checker/O’Reilly for $60 plus the core and it is leaking at the shaft seal and the bearing was completely destroyed after 18 months or about 25,000 miles. Who cares if it has a lifetime warranty if it winds up costing you the Optispark distributor at $500 to $700 or cap and rotor $130 to $250!!! DON’T buy a rebuilt or aftermarket distributor.
Gotcha :)
Yes the felpro one.
You’re talking about the $65.00 felpro kit right? The $14.00 one for the timing cover does not include any tool last I checked.
@BuffmanLT1 A “trained” mechanic friend of mine mashed the !@#$ out of the seal because he didn’t know about the supplied tool that was in the gasket kit 🙁
dont do it backwards, you can use soem thick paper even to make a cone so you can slide the seal onto the gear without bending the black portion backwards
Additionally You can find a cheap sharpie marker and tear it all apart and use that. Some have even used a socket, but it’s really necessary to have a taper to allow the seal to easily go on the tool and gently expand the lips so they won’t tear. Get a new seal, as once the lips have been beat up, they most usually always leak. i sent you info on my tool
Kent moore makes a special tool just for this job. Since the seal is double lipped, as you’ve experienced you simply can’t put it on there. The Kent moore tool is designed to open both lips up so you can drive the seal onto the surface without the lips folding. the only issue is the tool from them is $65.00. Apparently now Felpro makes a cheapo knockoff, but you still have to spend $65.00 on an entire gasket kit to get it. I have made the tool out of aluminum, and they function 100%
Could you put some type of sleeve, or wrap something over the step in
the shaft so the seal won’t fold over, then slide it out once the seal is installed?
They used to use something like that on Briggs and Stratton engines so the seal
would not be cut by the keyway.
Installing it backwards wont be recommended.. Do it right Sent ya a message.