Part 2 Replacing the electric water pump on late model BMW N-series 6 cylinder engines

Part 2  Replacing the electric water pump on late model BMW N-series 6 cylinder engines

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Jose D Castillo says:

What if you just want to change the thermostat would you still need to take
off water pump?

Juan Salinas says:

I just bought the water pump, bolts, thermostat and coolant from Bav Auto.
They seem very good quality parts, thank you.

Somehow my brother and I took both the pump & thermostat out but would like
some help in managing those “quick disconnect” hose clamps, since we
snapped the metal clips/fasteners (or whatcha may call them) by accident.
They were the hardest for us, and I’d like to be sure that we put
everything back together right.

Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.


James Walters says:

You did a great job on the entire removal and installation! Thanks a lot
and keep these great reference videos coming. Thanks from Jim Walters Z-4
owner

Walter Serrano says:

thank you for the good video, i am ready to dig into it. videos like this
one make one more confident to know what you are up against before you
start. thanks

mike kochis says:

Hello, I am doing the water pump as we speak, unfortunately I followed the
Bentley instructions prior to watching this video which had me drop the
intercooler to drain the radiator. I did a check on YouTube once I couldn’t
get the pump or thermostat out. Apparently, Bentley forgot to mention the
minor detail about dropping the sway bar. I should be good to go now thanks
to your video.
I did take my car in recently to have the oil changed. They told me the oil
filter housing gasket was leaking and would need to be replaced for $1200.
Once I took off the splash guard to change the pump, I noticed oil leaking
from the rear of the engine. This confused me, as to my knowledge the oil
filter is on the top front of the engine. Any idea of what this could be? I
thought I’d ask since I’m guessing this is a common issue. 2007 E90 335i.
Thanks!

Stig Bimm says:

Guess what! Just applied a bit of old oil to the rubber ring gasket inside
of the quick connect hose then pushed it towards the thermostat then it
poped in like a charm. Thank you Otto and Bavauto.

Michael Strickland says:

Last night while driving, the engine overheating “yellow” caution appeared
and by the time I scratched my head in wonder, the “red” overheat warning
light came on. Coolant level is full. Since I’ve bought this car when I
first start it, I hear a whining noise, assumed it was the normal sound of
the electric water pump. Last night In the parking lot I started the
car; the electric fan wasn’t running and I didn’t hear the whining
noise. I did not get a “check engine” light which I fine both surprising
and unsettling. The time frame between “yellow” caution and “red” shut off
the car or kill your engine, is unrealistic. Really with all the warning
lights and sensors, there isn’t a “Water Pump” failure light? So after
watching the video, and my battery charger at the shop. Should I perform
the bleeding test without the charger? If I do will it throw some
electrical mojo on the system if I shut off switch before the test is
over? So The fuse, water pump, or should I look elsewhere for this
problem? Another comment, I’ve found on my older 325i those snap hoses end
O-rings can get “set” after time and not seat properly during
re-installation, making for a frustrating addition to a fairly simple
job. 

Jason Wagner says:

Excellent DIY. Waiting for my parts to arrive so I can tackle this job.
Scenario is the same for me as everyone else, overheat yellow straight to
red. Without the thorough breakdown of this procedure, I don’t think I
would be confident in taking on this job. I’ve been reading a lot of
forums and it looks like replacement costs vary from $700 – $2000 for this
job depending on the shop, I can’t thank you guys enough for this
knowledge. Bavauto has my business from here on out 🙂 

Alphafox46 says:

new bmw engineering is nice but….it sucks engineering about LONG TERM if
you think about it. electric pumps won’t last very long not like the E30
water pumps total solid metal runs belt. hopefully in the future BMW will
make their engine like the generation of E30 all engine is kinda full metal
and very convenience easy to fix stuff. 

saleem83 says:

Newer german cars are a peice of shit. Who puts an electric waterpump on a
street vehicle.? What was bmw thinking when they started putting plastic
all over their engines. I replaced a high pressure pump in on of these.
Theres so many material isssues with bmws. Ill never own one past my e46.
Even those have their issues but atleast I have a belt driven pump, a
thermostat guage and a dipstick to physically check my oil without the car
on.

Stig Bimm says:

The larger quick disconnect hose wouldnt go into the thermostat. Very hard
to push it. Ended up disconnected while warming and spilt lots of coolant.
What should i do?

H. Jones says:

Do you have a fuel pump replacement video for 2001 E53 4.4?

Dave Bell says:

@BavarianAuto Thanks for the guide it helped immensely!

I just finished, but my water pump WON’T power on. Can’t get it to come on
to bleed nor when the car powers on. I’ve got both the water pump and
thermo harness in good. Any ideas? 🙁 

Steve Hill says:

This video was very helpful BTW.

GangGreen_714 says:

Can I do this without a battery charger

Nick Waninger says:

Bought the water pump, thermostat, and expansion tank all from Bavarian for
500 and change, and used this video and a little common sense to make the
changes. Saved 1200 dollars from the Dealership repair bill. Thanks guys.

lilrondmx says:

love this video thanks bad

Tommy Yep says:

thank you this video heip me alot.

Steve Hill says:

Should point out that replacing the pump on the 4 wheel drive car is twice
as difficult…next to impossible but I did it. 

Chauncey Mattei says:

I finally had some time to complete this DIY, and it went smoothly for the
most part. However I did have one minor, semi-major hiccup. Installing the
new water pump and t-stat I ensured all of the hoses were in place and made
sure all the connections/hoses were solid. I went through with the bleeding
proceedure without hiccups and I left the splash pan off to check for
leaks. Took it for a spin everything was fine, I got home and parked it and
it started gushing coolant everywhere!! The larger quick disconnect leading
to the thermostat came loose. I’m not sure how because the clip and
everything was in place and the hose cannot move further onto the t-stat.
I’m stumped!!!!

Ardi a. says:

Brilliant !

Alfons Llana says:

Regarding the battery charger: should the settings on it be same regardless
the type of battery you have? (AGM or the “old” type)

Dave Davidson says:

Thanks so much for doing this video. To other viewers- Don’t let the
dealership scare you when they say this is hard to get to. This IS a pretty
easy replacement as long as you have the U-joints, extensions, and Torx
socket. Thanks BavAuto! You saved me about $600!

MyNirvana23 says:

i got the water pump and the thermo from bavarianauto and i did pretty
much what the video showed, but sadly couldn’t make it work, when i put
the switch on and press the gas for 10 second my water pump doesn’t do
anything, any help please????

gjevolves says:

Excellent and very helpful…. Please keep up the brilliant job.

Peter Patrone says:

Great video. Will buy from Bav Auto.


steve surbaugh says:

Thanks for the great videos. One reason I always try to buy from Bav Auto.

Stefan L. says:

If you have the 335 xdrive model then there are a couple morr things you
need tp remove in order to gain access to the water pump. You dont have any
access from underneath as you see in this video since there is a huge steel
bar that runs underneath it. You have to remove the intercooler and fan and
then the stab bar and then work some magic from underneath and also from
the pass side to get to all the places.

Andrew Au says:

You guys rock!

Chauncey Mattei says:

I’m about to tackle this job this weekend, and how realistic is it to do on
ramps since I don’t have access to a lift?? Great DIY, I feel much more
confident about the water pump replacement now!

Toobs138 says:

What would happen if you do not do the last step bleeding step. 

Edgard Ortiz says:

Sorry didn’t see that! Thanks!

Stewart Loftin says:

Great job. Thank you very much.

mark strommen says:

I am working one of these with a over heat problem thanks for putting this
out way different then their older cars symptoms are the same no flow at
the bleeder so either the pump failed or the power supply this save me some
stress

Brandon Ellis says:

Im a bit confused as to how this system works. Does the eletric pump run
all the time? If it does then what is the advantage over a belt driven one?
Also im surprised they used an electronic pump and a mechanical thermostat.
I would have thought they would have used some sort of solenoid operated
valve or something in place of a conventional thermostat. 

Tommy Trifu says:

when doing the bleeding , Does the pump stay on all the time?

328ciBimmer says:

Yall are great! DIY makes owning a BMW just that much better 🙂 

mynamehaschanged says:

I have a 2007 1 series, the car has a coolant leak. The dealer tells me the
leak is in the wáter pump and they have to replace the thermostat and wáter
pump. My question is, if it a leak , why should the pump need to be
replaced, couldn’t the leak just be fixed? I mean the pump Works fine. Do
you know why? Thanks

cseagen says:

I can’t get that last quick connect to seat properly and ideas?

Edgard Ortiz says:

I can’t get the first quick connect to secure after snapping the ring down
do you have any suggestions? 

Robert Marshall says:

Thank you so much for this video. One of the things that tends to go bad is
now less scary to deal with

BavarianAuto says:

The bleeding process requires the full ignition to be on and the pump to be
running. This can reduce the battery voltage to the point where the vehicle
power management system starts to shut down systems and throw faults.

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